Ask the expert: Playful watches for the child in us

Kolobok steel watch on alligator strap, price unavailable, Konstantin Chaykin

Credit: Konstantin Chaykin

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Loved and loathed in equal measures, clowns are undoubtedly one of pop culture’s most divisive figures, but we can’t deny that the Joker’s appearance on Russian watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin’s Wristmons (wrist monsters) collection is a stroke of genius. First launched in 2017, the collection’s USP is the double-disc indicator featuring roaming eyes that tell the hours and minutes, making for a comical effect. The tongue doubles as a moonphase indicator. The Kolobok is the latest addition to this collection, and was inspired by a Russian fairy tale of the same name, which means Little Round Bun in English.

Arceau Costume de Fete white gold watch with diamonds on Rose Sakura swift calfskin strap, $109,000, Hermes

Credit: Hermes

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Hermes is known for its playful approach to luxury, and its watches are no exception. It often collaborates with artists and designers to conceptualise unique scarves, which are then miniaturised and reimagined to fit the Arceau watch dial. It’s no easy feat to navigate the real estate constraints of a watch dial, but Hermes’ artisans pull it off with aplomb, as seen in this Arceau Costume de Fete timepiece. Utilising techniques such as miniature painting and leather marquetry (a decorative artistic technique whereby the artisan pieces together bits of a material to form an image), the design was conceptualised by Warsaw-born artist Jan Bajtlik, who was inspired by traditional Polish crafts including paper cut-out art (known as wycinanki).

Mademoiselle J12 La Pausa ceramic and steel watch, $14,950, Chanel

Credit: Chanel

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Gabrielle Chanel’s impact on fashion cannot be understated. She played a key role in liberating women from their corsets, and made trousers a wardrobe staple. It’s thus no wonder that Chanel’s horlogerie department continues to pay tribute to her outsized contributions to society more than 50 years after her death.

The Mademoiselle J12 La Pausa watch beautifully reimagines a 1930 moment at Coco Chanel’s La Pausa Villa. She is depicted wearing a striped mariniere top paired with black trousers – a look that remains stylish today. The timepiece creatively uses her arms as hour and minute hands, adding a playful touch.

Minute Repeater Jumping Hours Minute Retrograde – Only Watch 2023 Edition, on textured rubber strap, price unavailable, Gerald Genta

Credit: Gerald Genta

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What do the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Patek Philippe Nautilus, and Omega Constellation have in common? They were all designed by watchmaking legend Gerald Genta. Demonstrating his creativity and knack for melding culture and watchmaking, he launched a series of Mickey Mouse watches in 1984. Following his passing in 2011, his brand underwent a hiatus, before being revived by Bvlgari, and has recently found a new home under Louis Vuitton. The first timepiece made by the Louis Vuitton manufacture (called Fabrique du Temps) is a unique watch created for the Only Watch auction, and unsurprisingly a revival of the Mickey Mouse collection, which pays tribute to the codes that Genta had popularised, namely an octagonal shape and a minute repeater movement. We foresee (and hope) that this is just the start of the Disney- themed luxury watches by Gerald Genta.