Exploring Tbilisi, Georgia: A cultural melting pot with bathhouses, cafes and ancient architecture

Where Middle Eastern, European and West Asian influences converge

Credit: The stunning view of Tbilisi from the Narikala Fortress. Photo: Rachel Ng

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Established in the 5th century, Tbilisi has a long history that has gone through the ebb and flow of growth and upheaval. Its strategic location along the ancient Silk Road made it an ideal place for trade, but also worked against its favour as it became highly coveted among regional powers. It’s been inhabited for over 1,500 years, and ruled by a variety of different cultures, including the Persians, Arabs, Mongols, and Russians. All these have resulted in a multicultural mosaic, which till today is still clearly represented in the different architectural styles of buildings.

Annie Silagadze, who works as a hotel administrator in the city centre, explains: “You’ll see Soviet Brutalism, old Georgian homes, Orthodox churches, West Asian- and Middle Eastern-style bathhouses, a Russian Imperial-style opera, and unique modern structures and buildings all mixed together in one city.”

Home to over one million, Tbilisi comprises a unique make-up of different peoples including Georgians, Armenians, Greeks, Russians, Azeris, and Jews. This multicultural society evolved from Georgia’s storied history and unique location in between Europe and Asia: The country is flanked by Turkiye, Armenia, Azerbaijan and Russia. And for locals like Sani Orvelashvili, 30, a graphic and motion designer, and a friend of Annie’s, this is what makes the city so unique.

“Tbilisi is very eclectic – we have many different ethnic groups and expats residing here. In the Meidan neighbourhood, you can encounter a synagogue, mosque, Armenian Apostolic church and Georgian Orthodox church within a 10-minute walking distance,” she says.

Bathhouses, ancient sites and museums: The top attractions of Tbilisi

Credit: Abanotubani, the Sulphur Baths district of Tbilisi. Photo: Maksim Ozerov, Getty Images

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Indeed, I managed to visit the Orthodox Sioni Cathedral, Anchiskhati Basilica, Karmir Avetaran Armenian Church and the Great Synagogue of Tbilisi all in a day. Islamic architecture is also represented with the sulphur baths, easily distinguishable with their domed roofs and colourful mosaic tiles adorning tall arched windows.

Going for a languishing soak in one of the many bathhouses did wonders for my weary traveller’s body after a full day of walking. If you're keen on experiencing one of their public baths, they are affordably priced between 6-10GEL (about $3.20 - $5.50).

Being a history buff, museums were also on my to-do list. I made a beeline for the National Gallery, Art Palace and Georgian National Museum, all of which were beautiful ways to spend an afternoon learning about this part of the world I was unfamiliar with.

The entry fee to the National Museum, which also includes to the National Gallery, costs 30GEL ($16). The Soviet Occupation Exhibition Hall on the fourth floor of the National Museum, though small, left the biggest impression on me. Although its exhibits depict the time of Soviet rule in Georgia from 1921 to 1991, it brings to mind more recent conflicts in the region – a stark reminder for this sheltered Singaporean that peace is never guaranteed for some in other countries.

Modern and ancient architecture to add to your itinerary

Credit: The iconic Bridge of Peace is a symbol of modern architecture, and is fitted with over 10,000 LED lights that illuminate its structure at night. Photo: Rachel Ng

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As I wandered around the labyrinthine streets of Abanotubani, the old town district, where ancient churches jostle shoulder-to-shoulder with contemporary bars, I also encountered elements of modernity. One of the most prominent was the Bridge of Peace, a curved structure of steel and glass that stretched across the Mtkvari River, connecting the Old Town to the newer Rike Park area.

Designed by Italian architect Michele De Lucchi, the 150m-long bridge is illuminated with over 10,000 LED lights after sunset, making for a nice stroll at night. It’s also best seen from the top of the funicular coming down from the Narikala Fortress, which was built in the 4th century by the Persians, and provides a lovely panoramic view of the city.

Walking along the fortress walls takes you to the 200m-tall Mother Georgia statue, an imposing figure holding a sword in one hand and a wine cup in the other. It’s a symbol of the Georgian character – a welcoming nature and, at the same time, fierce defenders against enemies.

How to get around the city

Credit: A view of the ancient old town in Tbilisi. Photo: Kampee Patisena, Getty Images

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Most of the main sights of Tbilisi are concentrated within walking distance or a short metro ride away. And much to my delight, Google Pay or Apple Pay can be used to pay for public transport. To get a more local feel of the city, Sani recommends walking around the Mtatsminda neighbourhood or the old Agmashenebeli Avenue on the left bank. These are neighbourhoods with small, old buildings housing residents who have been living there for many years.

I stayed on the fringes of the Old Town to be within walking distance of the main sights and attractions. While it was a busy area, I felt safer from petty crimes than in larger European cities, and was comfortable walking alone at night on dimly lit streets. Of course, as with all large cities, a fair amount of caution is still needed.

The birthplace of wine: What to eat and drink in Tbilisi

Credit: Another must-try dish in Georgia is the khachapuri, a soft bread topped with cheese and egg. Photo: Valeria Boltneva

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When it comes to food, Georgian cuisine is a feast for the senses, with influences from East and West. I was highly excited to try khachapuri, the cheese-filled bread that’s considered a national source of pride. (There’s even a National Khachapuri Day on February 27!).

Khachapuri comes in many forms but perhaps the most recognisable is the adjarian khachapuri, a soft boat-shaped bread filled with cheese and topped with a raw egg. However, I quickly learnt that it’s a dish best shared as I struggled to finish the massive portion. And it’s not just khachapuri that’s huge – food portions overall are quite generous. Khinkali were more manageable.

Reminiscent of Chinese soup dumplings (xiao long bao), khinkali are a tad bigger and filled with a savoury herb meat, with delicious soup that’s meant to be drunk first. What surprised me most about the food was the amount of coriander and pomegranate seeds used in many dishes. Whether it’s a tomato and cucumber salad, lobio bean stew or eggplant rolls with walnuts, one can expect either or both these ingredients to add another dimension of flavour.

Dining at restaurants in Georgia will set you back about 20 - 40GEL per person ($11 - $21). Wine is also widely available everywhere, with Georgia hailed as the birthplace of the drink some 6,000BC ago. According to National Geographic, ancient Georgians first discovered they could make wine by pressing grapes and storing the juice, skins and stalks in egg-shaped earthenware vessels called qvevri, which are then aged and stored underground. Today, it is still the main method of winemaking throughout the country.

Don't miss Tbilisi's vibrant cafe scene

Credit: The spacious ground floor of the Fabrika is a welcoming, comfortable space to chill solo or with friends. Photo: Rachel Ng

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While Tbilisi retains much of its scenic European-style old town vibes, it is very much a city in transition. There were many third wave coffee shops around the city, all characterised by minimalist interiors, and a variety of espresso-based and filter coffee. One in particular that screamed “hipster” was Black Cup, a tiny hole in the wall that could only be accessed through the backyard of a residential area.

Such coffee shops or cafes where one could work from were practically unheard of five to 10 years ago, freelancer Sophie Masiuradze, 29, tells me. “You can find something interesting and exciting everywhere. Even though I’ve lived here all my life, I can discover something new about my city each day,” she says. Its people are also making their voices heard, especially the younger generation who are becoming more active in social and political issues. “I’d describe older generations of Georgians as pretty conservative, and younger generations as alternative and outspoken about social issues,” says Annie.

I found this to be somewhat apparent as I walked along the streets and saw numerous graffiti of blue and yellow, colours of the Ukraine flag – a sign of solidarity with the country. Sophie says: “My favourite thing about Tbilisi is that it’s very authentic.” From the locals I spoke to who were eager to share a slice of their hometown with me, to the strong traditions that prevail, I’d certainly agree.

How to spend a perfect week in Tbilisi

Credit: One of the most popular dishes in Georgia is the Khinkali, a soup dumpling reminiscent of xiao long bao. Photo: Ekaterina Vasileva-Bagler, Getty Images

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STAY The neighbourhoods of Sololaki and Mtatsminda are short distances from the more pricey Old Town, and put you within walking distance of various museums, attractions, parks, restaurants and bars.

DO Pack a picnic basket with food and wine, and head to parks such as Dedaena Park or Lisi Lake for a relaxing afternoon. VISIT Fabrika, a former Soviet factory complex turned hipster spot for locals and tourists.

There are shops, street food, and a hostel with a restaurant and co-working space open to all.

EAT For classic Georgian food and drink, graphic and motion designer Sani Orvelashvili recommends Salobie Bia, Craft Wine Restaurant, Qandara bar, Puri Guliani, Soda bar, Amo Rame, and Althaus Tea Room.

COFFEE Shavi Coffee Roasters, BNKR Coffee, Kuro Coffee Roasters and Erti Kava were some of the cafes I managed to pop into. With its bright and clean minimalist Scandinavian-style interior, and a flavourful full-bodied flat white, Shavi topped my list.

Getting there: There are no direct flights to Tbilisi from Singapore. I flew Qatar Airways with a transit in Doha.