Anastasia Tjendri-Liew has transformed Bengawan Solo into an iconic Singapore brand

It was an early-morning knock on the door 41 years ago, that would change Anastasia Tjendri-Liew’s life. The last thing the home baker expected was to find health inspectors standing on her doorstep.

Then 31 years old and a mother of two young children, Anastasia was selling chiffon cakes from her home kitchen to local shopping malls and supermarkets in the Tanjong Katong area. However, this had caught the attention of authorities, who informed Anastasia that she needed a food manufacturing licence and a registered shop space if she wanted to continue her business.

Although she didn’t realise it then, that fateful moment marked the beginning of a series of serendipitous opportunities. Anastasia had never planned on running a full-fledged shop, and even considered closing her home business.

But inspired by how much her customers loved her products, she pressed on – renting a shop at Block 58 Marine Terrace and naming it Bengawan Solo, after a popular Indonesian folk song. The shop still stands there today.

“I had to do it on my own. I had to look after the business, and at the same time, I had to look after my family. I didn’t have many staff during that time, so I had to work very hard.

“I remember the whole kitchen being filled with chiffon cakes. I must have baked more than 20 or 30 a day,” recalls the petite and soft-spoken entrepreneur, her unassuming demeanour belying her reputation as a “Lady Boss”.

That decision proved pivotal. In 1981, The Sunday Times journalist Alan John followed the irresistible aroma of pandan, coconut, cinnamon and cloves to her store. He wrote an article on her kuehs and cakes – and the rest, as they say, is history.

“When the article came out, Alan told me to expect more customers on the day of publication, but I didn’t expect so many people to come,” recalls the 78-year-old, who to this day wholeheartedly credits him for catapulting Bengawan Solo to national fame.

The crowd showed up before the shop opened. “I don’t know where they came from. They wouldn’t leave until everything was sold out!” she exclaims.

What began as a home business in a Marine Parade HDB flat in 1975 grew into a bakery empire with over 40 outlets, known for its signature pandan chiffon cake and commitment to quality. Its annual turnover in 2024 was an estimated $75 million.

Today, Bengawan Solo’s five outlets at Changi Airport still draw queues. The cakes are highly sought after by tourists and international celebrities as the quintessential souvenir item to return home with, after visiting Singapore.

“When there’s a concert in Singapore or during the holiday season, there will always be a long queue at Changi Airport T1. Sometimes, we don’t have enough chiffon cakes, and sometimes customers buy in bulk – nine, 10, even 12 at a time.

“We had to limit purchases to three per customer. On busy days, we can sell up to 3,000 cakes a day,” says Anastasia.

In 2022, Taiwanese pop star Jay Chou took to social media to thank Singaporean singers Stefanie Sun and JJ Lin for sending him gifts during his Singapore concert, which included Bengawan Solo’s famous pandan chiffon cake.

Despite her success, Anastasia has resisted overseas expansion in order to preserve the quality of her products. Her dedication has earned her loyal fans – including Hong Kong actor Chow Yun Fat – and cemented Bengawan Solo as a cultural landmark.

“I am so blessed. The celebrities, they love my products. And they introduce my products to other audiences. The singers will introduce it to their fans. So more people know about our chiffon cakes,” she adds with a smile.

Building a legacy

“Blessed” is how Anastasia describes her journey, but like many who have built a legacy from scratch, she has also faced her fair share of challenges.

Anastasia was born on Bangka Island, Indonesia and grew up in Palembang, South Sumatra, as the third of eight children. From a young age, she loved cooking and often helped her mother in the kitchen, preparing everything from traditional kuehs to Hakka dishes such as stir-fried chai poh (preserved radish), mui choi (pickled Chinese mustard), and yong tau foo.

After graduating from secondary school, she spent two to three years teaching baking classes and selling baked goods from home, often baking until dawn to fulfil her orders. Anastasia then moved to Jakarta to study dressmaking, eventually earning a diploma.

For the next two years, she juggled weekdays learning dressmaking, and weekends devoted to baking and cooking classes.

“I wasn’t very passionate about dressmaking. It was just something I wanted to learn. My interest lies in cooking and baking… I never touched a sewing machine again,” says Anastasia with a laugh.

While in Jakarta, she met a cousin from Singapore, who invited her to study English in the city-state. Soon after her relocation, she met her husband, fellow Indonesian Johnson Liew, and started a family here in the 1970s.

As a homemaker, she began baking at home, making chiffon, kueh lapis, and banana cakes. Chiffon cakes, in particular, were still uncommon in Singapore then, making her one of the first to introduce them. Using fresh ingredients, the enterprising baker experimented with recipes until she perfected them, eventually selling her cakes to local emporiums and supermarkets.

“I first started supplying my cakes to the President Emporium in Serangoon, which was just across from my home then,” recounts Anastasia.

The department store and supermarket on the ground floor of President Shopping Centre sold buttercream sponge cakes for 30 cents, while she priced her kueh lapis, butter cakes, and pandan chiffon cakes at 45 cents, citing the quality of her ingredients. It was very much a one-woman operation. Sales were modest, she recalls, as she was unable to produce in large batches – and she would even hand-carry the cakes over herself.

After moving to Marine Parade in 1976, Anastasia began selling her home-baked cakes to Katong Emporium, where her cakes were well received. She later expanded sales to Chinese Emporium and Klasse Department Store along Orchard Road. Anastasia baked and delivered the cakes herself, with the help of a driver whose day job was driving a bus.

“When we opened the container, the fragrance of the pandan would draw customers in. We squeezed the pandan juice by hand, which made it very fragrant,” she says.

After setting up shop at Marine Terrace, Anastasia hired three workers and, using just three domestic ovens, sold pandan chiffon cakes, banana cakes, butter cakes and kueh lapis – all displayed in a single showcase. At times, she would alternate between baking and serving her customers. Considering the labour and ingredient costs, she refused to lower her prices.

“One auntie complained that my cakes were expensive at 45 cents, but she still returned everyday to buy the cakes,” she shares.

As her business grew in popularity, customers encouraged her to open a second outlet in a more central location. In 1983, Anastasia did just that, unveiling another Bengawan Solo store at Centrepoint Shopping Centre along Orchard Road. The shop quickly became just as popular – attracting even prominent dignitaries.

“One day, Kwa Geok Choo (wife of Lee Kuan Yew) came to my shop. She bought some kueh lapis and ang ku kueh, then asked me why I didn’t make kueh bingka ubi (tapioca cake). I told her, ‘I will try one day. I don’t know how to make it, but I will try,’” she recalls with a smile.

True to her word and her can-do spirit, the item was later added to the menu, and Anastasia went on to expand her offerings with a wide variety of treats, including ondeh-ondeh, kueh salat, and more. Before long, shopping malls were approaching her, inviting her to open stores at various locations.

To keep up with the growing demand, she opened a 10,000 sq ft central kitchen at Harvey Road in 1988 – becoming the first in Singapore to do so.

“I said, wow, we have so much space – we can dance in our kitchen now!” Anastasia laughs. “But after 10 years, it started to feel cramped again. As we opened more stores, the kitchen became too small, so we set up a bigger factory in Woodlands.”

Reinventing tradition

Like clockwork, Anastasia visits her factory to do a quality check – which involves taste testing and examining the appearance of the products – every single day, even on weekends. She oversees all aspects of the business, from managing its finances to its operations.

Bengawan Solo is on her mind 24/7 – she is constantly dreaming up new recipes, tweaking existing ones to make them better, and finding ways to innovate and improve. But a stickler for tradition she is not.

“If there are things we can automate, which do not affect the quality, we will try it. We only use the machine to ensure that the texture is better or if the quality is not compromised,” she says.

Over 30 years ago, she made a trip to Japan with her staff, lugging heavy suitcases full of ingredients. Determined to produce pineapple tarts in large quantities while maintaining consistent quality, she set out to find a machine that could help her achieve it.

“I went to see the machine manufacturer and brought along the ingredients to make the dough. I wanted to create a longish-shaped pineapple tart, so I asked them to design the machine die needed to produce that shape. We tried it, and actually, using the machine is better than hand,” she says.

It took countless tries, but once again, Anastasia was the first to introduce pillow-shaped pineapple tarts – and before long, other bakeries began to follow her lead. Buttery and soft, with sweet honey pineapple filling, she says these pineapple tarts are especially popular with Japanese tourists as souvenirs.

Another product she chose to automate was kueh lapis, a cake that is labour-intensive and difficult to produce. Known as the “thousand layer cake”, the rich and dense butter cake is baked layer by layer, a process that can take a few hours.

Together with a manufacturer, she developed a machine to help speed up the process, allowing her to produce up to 1,000 cakes a day during festive seasons.

That focus on efficiency never came at the expense of quality. Up till today, Anastasia pours her time and energy into ensuring that her products are made with only the best and freshest ingredients – Holland butter, palm sugar from Indonesia, and freshly grated coconut.

Even when prices of butter, eggs, or chocolate went up, she refused to switch to cheaper substitutes. Anastasia believes her customers would taste the difference, and that commitment is the recipe for Bengawan Solo’s success.

“From day one, when I do something, I want to give the best to my customers. I’m in the factory seven days a week, with no off days – unless I’m overseas on holiday. If I’m in Singapore, I must go every day. I have to check everything, taste the flavour and texture.

“If something isn’t right, I’ll find the person responsible. I’m very strict. It’s not easy, but I cannot compromise on my products or their quality,” she says firmly.

Anastasia remains full of spirited energy 46 years on. She continues to lead a loyal team of long-time employees, many of whom have been with Bengawan Solo for decades.

This unyielding ethos meant that much of her time was devoted to the business – a difficult compromise for Anastasia as her two children, her eldest daughter Rissa and son Henry, were growing up. When she was starting out, she would return home to cook lunch for her children, before heading out to the store again. Her younger sister helped care for the children, while her husband Johnson helped with the accounts.

“I didn’t have enough time for my kids – it was very hard. Sometimes, I wondered if I could continue, but I told myself to keep going,” says Anastasia, her voice filled with emotion. “I tried my best. I made it a point to bring my kids out once a week to spend time with them.”

Her dedication has inspired Henry, 46, who joined the business after graduating from the National University of Singapore (NUS) with a business degree in 2002.

“She really has a can-do attitude. She doesn’t give up. And I think I have seen that and am inspired by this attitude, where we can always find a way. We can always do it, whatever challenges there are,” says Henry, who is a director at the company.

He adds: “For her it is a passion, an art, and a craft first. And business is second. So that has been something that has inspired me and the way I look at the business.”

Giving back with gratitude

Along the way, Anastasia has been recognised with numerous accolades. In 1998, she became the first woman to receive the Association of Small and Medium Enterprises’ Woman Entrepreneur of the Year Award. A decade later, in 2008, she was awarded the Public Service Medal, followed by the Public Service Star in 2013.

But beyond her business, Anastasia is a philanthropist who champions education, entrepreneurship and social causes. In 2023, she established the Anastasia Liew Study Award at Singapore Management University, and also contributed to NUS and Nanyang Technological University to support underprivileged students.

Anastasia donated $100,000 to The Straits Times School Pocket Money Fund in support of children from low-income families. She also contributed $100,000 each to several educational initiatives, including the Bengawan Solo Term Scholarship at NTU, the Ong Chit Chung Memorial Scholarship at NUS, and the Wee Kim Wee Heritage Fund at SMU.

Her giving extends beyond education. Since 2018, Anastasia has been a donor with the Singapore Council of Women’s Organisations (SCWO), supporting efforts to uplift women and the community. She is also generous with her time, serving as the vice-chairperson of the Bukit Batok Citizens’ Consultative Committee, which she has been supporting since 2000.

“Despite her hectic schedule, she still makes the effort to attend to all the Bukit Batok grassroots leaders. It’s not just about giving financially; her physical presence makes a world of difference,” says Elizabeth Ong, wife of the late Ong Chit Chung, who served as a Member of Parliament for Bukit Timah Group Representation Constituency, which included Bukit Batok.

She first met Anastasia at a grassroots event some 37 years ago, and the two have remained friends ever since. Elizabeth shares that Anastasia believes in giving back, as she sees her success as stemming not only from her staff, but also from Singapore as a nation.

“I feel that I’m so blessed, so I’m very happy to share my blessings with others. I started my business in Singapore; I feel that I have to give back to the community and share my blessings,” says Anastasia.

Those who know her best attest to her generosity and gratitude. Project manager Steven Chu, 67, who joined Bengawan Solo in 1995, says Anastasia never forgets those who have helped her – she remembers them “for life”.

“There are many things that really strike me about Mrs Liew, but what impresses me most is her deep sense of gratitude. She is always thankful to those who have helped her. For example, her cousin who sponsored her first visit to Singapore to study – no matter the occasion or event, she never forgets to acknowledge them,” he says.

Steven recalls a time when his mother was in the ICU for 25 days. During that period, Anastasia brought home-cooked meals for his family, who were keeping vigil at the hospital.

“She brought her kuehs, cakes and rolls from the factory, and she took care of us throughout those 25 days in the ICU. It was amazing. I’m very grateful to her and will always remember her kindness. And I’m not the only one who has benefited from a friendship with Mrs Liew,” he says.

Alan, the journalist whom she credits with Bengawan Solo’s initial rise to prominence, shares a similar sentiment. Though Anastasia’s business has grown into an empire through her own ability – “her gift for making these wonderful kueh, her determination to get it right, to improve, and to run her business her way” – she still insists on reminding him that his article had something to do with it.

“So every year, a box of mooncakes arrives, and at Christmas, a cake or yule log comes too. When I was still at The Straits Times, her son Henry once came to the office, meeting me for the first time, and handed me his wedding invitation. ‘My mother said I have to invite you,’ he told me,” Alan chuckles.

He also recalls that just before the pandemic, he had planned to invite Henry and his wife over for dinner, but had to cancel after being admitted to the hospital with appendicitis.

“And who walks through the door? Anastasia Liew – carrying fruit, sitting by my side, ‘sayang-ing’ me, telling me to get well soon before heading off. Later, while I was recuperating at home, the doorbell rang. It was Anastasia again, this time with a jar of essence of chicken she had brewed herself. ‘Drink, drink, drink,’ she said. ‘This is very good for you. You will get well soon.’”

Food from the heart

Anastasia’s love language has always been food. At home, she still cooks for her family on weekends, preparing hearty Indonesian comfort dishes like gado-gado and pempek (fish cakes made with tapioca flour), along with nourishing fare such as abalone soup. She even continues to use a charcoal grill for her signature pork satay.

Henry reveals that Anastasia is most in her element when she’s cooking. “Sometimes, I think it’s cathartic for her – it’s therapy when she’s stressed or frustrated. But when she cooks, she feels better,” he says.

Her passion for food has rubbed off on him. A self-confessed foodie, Henry shares that it has made him more discerning about what he eats.

“Being in the food business, you have to be that way – you cannot be too chin chai (careless). Cooking and baking are all about no shortcuts, no compromises. We always have to put in the time and effort, use the best ingredients, and maintain the highest quality to deliver the best.

“I think that philosophy of hers, from cooking and baking at home for us, is really her love language. It’s how she shows her love. She’s happiest when you enjoy her food,” Henry adds.

That philosophy extends beyond the kitchen to the way Anastasia runs her business. She once told a colleague she planned to retire at 48. What keeps her going three decades later? Her answer is simple: “Because I want to protect my brand.”

That enduring commitment is what drives her. To this day, Bengawan Solo remains a beloved brand among Singaporeans and visitors, a fact that continues to fuel her passion.

“Actually, I can retire anytime, but because so many people love it, I am happy to continue,” she says. Both Anastasia and Henry demur when asked about succession.

“If I still can work, I’ll work. If I cannot, I’ll see how. I hope Bengawan Solo can carry on and grow further. That’s all I can hope for,” Anastasia sums up with a smile.

PHOTOGRAPHY Phyllicia Wang
ART DIRECTION Ray Ticsay & Adeline Eng
STYLING Donson Chan
HAIR Aung Apichai using Kevin.Murphy & Grego Oh, using Revlon Professional SG
MAKEUP Benedict Choo using Cle de Peau Beaute
COORDINATION Chelsia Tan