Why your perm doesn’t last long and how to keep it looking fresh for longer

Thanks to modern perm techniques and technology, the days of the classic ‘ahjumma’ or ‘auntie’ perm with its tightly coiled curls are long gone. Getting a perm back in the day may have left you with dry, crunchy, and frizzy hair as a result of harsh hair-reshaping chemicals, however, today’s modern perms give you the perfect low-maintenance hairstyle. Think — defined yet flowy locks that require barely any effort at all.

But like other curly hair types, permed hair is subject to the whims of its surrounding climate. Especially in Singapore, the unforgiving humidity can cause curls to lose their shape and become frizzy. 

Why does this happen? We spoke to Teo Shiyun, co-founder of Picasso Hair Studio, to learn more about the perm technologies behind popular styles like the Korean perm, Japanese perm, Flow perm, and more. Aside from that, she also shared some expert tips on how to beat the heat and keep your perm looking fresh for longer.

Knowing your perm

Contrary to popular belief, there are only two types of perm, or two ways to reshape your hair into curls and waves — hot or cold perm. 

What makes each perm hairstyle different is the haircut shape, layer amount and type, and the perm rods’ direction and size.

Knowing which perm you have is crucial to understanding how to maintain it properly. 

Shiyun explains that a traditional cold perm uses only an alkaline solution and perm rods, with no machine help. Typically, the curls achieved are tighter and more defined. They’re perfect for those looking for a more voluminous look or those with shorter hair. With a cold perm, you can leave your curls to simply air dry after adding some styling foam or gel.

One downside, however, is that the chemical lotions used, like ammonium thioglycolate, while not involving heat, can lead to dryness and increased frizz. 

Nowadays, hot perms have been the go-to since they can achieve more natural-looking curls, which also last longer. Instead of using an alkaline solution like cold perms, hot perms use an acidic solution, with the addition of heat through a machine. To get the best results for your everyday look, blow-dry your hair and add a touch of hair serum.

In humid Singapore, hot perms are usually chosen due to their longevity and the fact that they’re less prone to frizziness, Shiyun says.

How humidity affects your curls

We’ve all seen what happened to Monica Geller’s hair when she visited Barbados in that one episode of Friends — it became so frizzy that all she could say was, “It’s the humidity!”

She’s not wrong though. Although people with permed hair would probably not experience that intense of a hair transformation in this weather, humidity can cause your curls to droop and frizz up.

Shiyun explains that the moisture in the air wraps around each strand of hair and makes the cuticles swell up, disrupting hair shape and leading to frizz, which eventually makes your curls lose their defined shape. This is why your curls might not last even half the day when you’re out and about.

Hair porosity also plays a role in how much humidity affects your curls. While thicker and coarser hair may hold onto curls better, having hair with high porosity means your hair absorbs moisture more easily, leading to frizz and curl loss in humid conditions. 

As such, it is important to “block out” the humidity by blow-drying wet permed hair and applying a soft curl cream to essentially form a protective barrier, preventing moisture from entering hair cuticles.

How to keep your perm looking fresh for longer

If you want your curls to stand a better chance against the humidity, follow the tips shared by Shiyun below.

1. Pick the right perm for your lifestyle

While there’s no one perm type that can hold up better in humid conditions, Shiyun suggests getting a rebonding perm, C curl perm, or any perm with fewer layers.

She explains that fewer layers and curls at the start will make maintenance easier. 

Since these hairstyles have fewer layers and permed parts, less surface area of hair will be exposed to humidity, minimising frizz. 

2. Avoid humidity

For a tropical island like Singapore, this is essentially an impossible task. 

But where possible, Shiyun cautions against going to places with large bodies of water nearby, like the beach, since there’ll be more moisture in the surrounding air. 

If you want your curls to last all day, spending your time in air-conditioned environments would be your best bet.

3. Avoid swimming

According to Shiyun, the chlorine in the pool could dry out your hair and reduce hair elasticity, the ability of hair to stretch and return to its original length without breaking, making the perm less long-lasting. 

As such, it’s best to limit the amount of time spent in the pool.

4. Use a deep repairing hair mask once a week

Hair masks contain nutrient-rich moisturisers in higher concentrations, compared to your daily conditioners, to give your hair that extra TLC. 

By hydrating and repairing the hair, hair masks strengthen your hair shaft, which can improve hair elasticity. This helps your hair hold onto your perm longer.

5. Add water and blow-dry to reshape the hair

If your hair starts to weigh down in the middle of the day and you feel like your curls need a pick-me-up, try spraying some water on your hair and blow-drying again to reshape your curls. 

While this is a drastic measure, sometimes starting over can achieve even better results than your initial styling.