What are neurocosmetics? Can skincare really improve your mood?

We use skincare products with the aim of boosting our skin health from beneath its surface through a range of ingredients, to get brighter, clearer and more radiant skin. But we have, perhaps, been neglecting one essential part of our bodies – our nervous system.

Beauty brands now want to talk to your skin’s nervous system, through products known as neurocosmetics. Examples include Pro-Collagen Peptide Firming Eye Serum by Paula’s Choice and P-TIOX by Skin Ceuticals. 

Dr Teo Wan Lin, a dermatologist and chief scientific officer of Dr.TWL Asian Skin Research Institute, defines neurocosmetics as “topical formulations designed to interact with the skin’s nerve receptors”. This is in contrast to traditional cosmetics, which generally affect the structure of skin, be it repairing the stratum corneum barrier, stimulating collagen in the dermis or replacing biomimetic molecules like hyaluronic acid. 

She adds: “Neurocosmetics, instead, regulate the cell environment that’s connected to the nervous and endocrine systems – known as the neuroendocrine system – by engaging with receptors on skin cells known as keratinocytes.”

Cosmetic chemist Kelly Dobos explains that the skin isn’t just a passive barrier. It contains an extensive network of sensory nerves, receptors and signalling molecules that allow it to detect touch, temperature, pain and other environmental stimuli. 

“Neurocosmetics are an emerging category of skincare products that leverage these relationships between the skin, nervous system and brain, often referred to as the skin-brain axis,” she adds.

Kelly says that neurocosmetic products typically promise to improve skin comfort, reduce visible signs of stress, soothe sensitive skin and create pleasurable sensory experiences during product use. While some ingredients are designed to influence sensations such as cooling, warming, tingling or soothing through activation of sensory receptors in the skin, others focus on pathways involved in irritation, inflammation, skin ageing or recovery from environmental stressors. There is also use of fragrances that can be energising or calming.

Kelly points out that many products also emphasise emotional well-being and wellness but has a word of caution for brands. 

She explains: “While sensory experiences can certainly influence how consumers feel about a product, brands should be careful not to overstate effects. Claims involving mood, stress reduction or neurological effects may attract regulatory scrutiny in some markets.”

A holistic view of skin health

The timing of the introduction of neurocosmetics isn’t coincidental. After all, consumers have become more aware of the impact of chronic stress on skin so brands are going a step further by not just treating the issue but making skin more resilient from within. 

Kelly notes that the popularity of neurocosmetics reflects a broader shift toward viewing skin health more holistically. For example, consumers recognise that stress and sleep contribute to emotional well-being and can impact how skin looks and feels.

Kelly elaborates: “Our understanding of the skin also continues to evolve; advances in skin biology continue to show us that skin is a highly-sophisticated sensory organ. And beauty brands are paying more attention to the role of texture, fragrance and sensory experiences when developing cosmetic formulations. 

“All of these trends have created interest in skincare that aims not only to improve the appearance of skin but also to enhance skin comfort and the overall user experience,” she adds.

Dr Teo mentions her research, which focuses on the interactions of the brain-skin-axis with the skin microclimate, with neurocosmetics as the direct bridge between the two. “Reactive and sensitive skin is on the rise, in part due to urban lifestyles – what we attribute to city stress on skin boils down to psychological stress and pollution.”

Working on the skin’s sensory pathways

So how do neurocosmetics actually work? In short, they act precisely on sensory nerve receptors on skin cells and modulate the immune system as well, says Dr Teo. 

Kelly explains that while traditional skincare products primarily focus on moisturising, protecting the skin barrier and improving the appearance of skin, neurocosmetics aim to influence the skin’s sensory pathways in addition to achieving those traditional skincare benefits.

“For example, some ingredients can influence temperature-sensitive receptors in the skin to create cooling or warming sensations, while others interact with pathways associated with inflammation,” she adds. “Neurocosmetics also place greater emphasis on the sensory aspects of formulation, including texture, fragrance and sensorial effects. These aspects can really impact the consumer experience.”

If you’re just being introduced to neurocosmetics, you might not be aware of which ingredients are actually beneficial. Dr Teo admits it’s an emerging field and true measures of efficacy require biotech level infrastructure backed by research and development.  

Her advice? Be skeptical if the term is used loosely, so do your brand research. 

“It’s important to note that there are a myriad of formulations which can include an identified neurocosmetic active and perhaps it’s just the specific combination with some other active that will irritate your skin,” Dr Teo explains. “Unfortunately, there is no way for a layperson to immediately distinguish what works and doesn’t – look into research or clinical data, if offered by the brand.”

There are, however, certain common neurocosmetic ingredients – neuropeptides, neurosensory-calming ingredients and adaptogens.

Neuropeptides are signalling molecules that help coordinate communication between nerves, skin cells and immune cells, influencing skin processes such as inflammation, wound healing, cellular repair and immune responses, says Kelly. 

“The science is certainly intriguing, particularly given the growing understanding of the skin-brain connection, but consumers should recognise that neuropeptide skincare is not straightforward,” she says. “Data supporting the mechanisms for these ingredients mostly come from in vitro studies and these molecules can be difficult to stabilise and deliver to the living layers of the skin, meaning that the scientific potential often exceeds what cosmetic products can realistically achieve.”

Neurosensory-calming ingredients interact with sensory receptors in the skin to reduce discomfort or alter sensory perception. Some of them activate temperature-sensitive receptors known as TRP channels. Kelly cites the example of menthol, which activates the TRPM8 receptor to create a cooling sensation, while ingredients such as vanillyl butyl ether activate TRPV1 receptors to generate gentle warmth. These effects can really enhance the sensory experience of a product, she adds.

Finally, adaptogens are botanicals traditionally associated with helping the body respond to stress. Skincare ingredient examples are ashwagandha and ginseng, typically incorporated for their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

“While they are often discussed within the neurocosmetic category, their benefits in skincare are more commonly related to reducing oxidative stress and supporting skin resilience than directly influencing emotional well-being,” says Kelly.

Can neurocosmetics alter your mood?

It might be a challenge but it’s important for consumers to know what these ingredients can actually do before handing over their money for these products. Kelly says the strongest scientific rationale exists for ingredients that improve skin comfort, reduce irritation and support the skin barrier. Also, cooling and warming sensates and ingredients that address inflammation all have biological mechanisms supported by what we know about skin physiology.

“Consumers should be more skeptical of claims suggesting that a topical skincare product can significantly alter mood, reduce psychological stress, boost happiness or directly influence brain function,” she advises. 

“The skin and nervous system are clearly interconnected but demonstrating meaningful psychological effects from a topical cosmetic remains much more challenging than demonstrating improvements in skin comfort or sensory aspects,”: she adds. “I think neurocosmetics are an exciting category that deserves more research but one where marketing currently seems to outpace the evidence.”

Kelly suggests to take claims such as how certain products can reduce cortisol or rebalance emotions “with a healthy dose of skepticism”. While the connection between the nervous system, skin and emotional state is real, the marketing often gets far ahead of the evidence, she says. 

“The concept of neurocosmetics is not entirely marketing hype. We know that sensory experiences can influence how consumers feel about a product, and some ingredients have well-established interactions with sensory receptors in the skin or olfactory pathways in the brain,” she explains.

“A cosmetic may help create a feeling of well-being, reduce the perception of stress or improve the sensory experience but that’s very different from demonstrating that it meaningfully lowers cortisol levels or ‘rebalances’ emotional health,” she adds.

As a researcher and scientist, Dr Teo is excited by neurocosmetics, “primarily because I believe those with recalcitrant sensitive and reactive skin will stand to benefit, both as an over-the-counter cosmetic and as part of dermatologic therapeutics”. 

She explains: “For cosmetic or anti-ageing purposes, neurocosmetic actives like peptides can also aid in localised muscle relaxation, leading to smoother skin. Adaptogens and certain ethnobotanicals, when formulated properly as a neurocosmetic, can calm sensitive and reactive skin. 

“But an important guardrail to bear in mind – do not self-medicate if you have a dermatological condition; see a dermatologist if you have a persistent skin condition,” she adds.