When should I reach for a mechanical watch instead of a quartz one?

I am dipping my toes into the world of watches, and confused about the jargon. Help!

Jaeger-LeCoultre, Dior, Zenith, Longines, Getty
Jaeger-LeCoultre, Dior, Zenith, Longines, Getty
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You might remember the Swatch and Flik Flak watches we grew up with, which needed a battery replacement every few years. These are quartz watches, which essentially rely on a battery for their source of energy.

However, this was not always the case: Until the 1960s, watches were powered by kinetic energy, and were made of different components that worked in harmony to keep them ticking. And because of their kinetic source of energy, they ran out of power after a period of time.

The advent of quartz technology proved to be a game changer, as it meant that watches could be industrially produced, bringing down costs, while improving accuracy.

A mechanical watch should be redundant in the age of smart and quartz watches, but they’re still highly sought after.

While quartz and smart watches dominate the market for their affordability and accessibility, mechanical watches are highly prized by collectors, as evinced by the months-long waiting lists at the likes of Rolex, Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe, and their record-breaking prices.

The difference between hand- and self-wound

Mechanical watches can either be hand-wound or self-wound – the former means that the user will have to wind the crown when the power runs out. Self-wound (also known as automatic) means that the watch derives its source of energy from the movement of our wrist – so as long as you keep wearing it, you don’t have to wind it.

Why choose a mechanical over a quartz watch?

Think of the pleasure of flipping through a magazine or a coffee table book, savouring the rustle of the page, and losing yourself in the nuances of a photograph.

Similarly, a mechanical watch is an ode to nostalgia and human ingenuity. They’re anachronistic pleasures in the age of speedy tech. For collectors, the act of winding a watch on a daily basis is almost religious, a mindful act that forces us to appreciate the now.

Moreover, it’s also a testament to feats of engineering: Over the years, watchmakers have pushed the boundaries of innovation to improve accuracy and design features that can indicate leap years, and even the astronomical position of the stars.

Why are watch complications so sought after?

Mechanical watches can do more than just tell the time. Some can chime the time on command or record the duration of your diving trip, while others can bring the celestial skies to our wrists, indicating lunar cycles and even the position of the tides.

These are called watch complications, and were built by watchmakers to address our needs before the advent of smart technology. Some complications – like the tourbillon – were created to improve the accuracy of time to account for gravity’s pull on pocket watches. Others, like astronomical complications or chronographs, were designed to meet the demands of various professions, from aviation specialists to sportsmen.

Complications jack up the price of a watch. For watchmakers, creating a complication is a badge of honour: It reveals the mastery of horology and how far they’re willing to go to craft a complication that we arguably don’t need for the tiny space that the watch case affords. Now that is true luxury.

Do you have a question about watches? Send it to contributing features editor Karishma Tulsidas (karishma@sph.com.sg), who will solve your conundrums with practical tips and advice.

Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Enamel pink gold watch on alligator strap, price unavailable, Jaeger-LeCoultre

Credit: Jaeger-LeCoultre
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Chiffre Rouge steel watch with black DLC coating, price unavailable, Dior

Credit: Dior
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Defy Skyline Tourbillon steel watch, $82,100, Zenith

Credit: Zenith
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Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve steel watch on alligator strap, price unavailable, Longines

Credit: Longines
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