Should you invest in a limited edition watch?

Once a niche pursuit, watch collecting has found a new generation of female admirers. Within this realm, there are those who actively seek out limited edition watches as a subtle (or not so subtle) flex. But in a world overflowing with drops, exclusives and countdown timers, one question keeps ticking: Are limited edition watches worthy investments, or just clever packaging for manufactured desire?

For sure, scarcity is seductive. It’s practically hard-wired in our DNA. There’s power in knowing you own something that few others do. And then there’s the thrill of the hunt, the rush of acquisition, and the bragging rights that follow. Watch brands understand this well: Limited editions trigger our inner collector as much as our fear of missing out.

But when everything is “limited”, does it still mean anything? For Peter Chong, a long-time watch collector and co-founder of a watch publication in Singapore, it has become meaningless in some cases. “Some of these limited editions are so huge... [there are some brands that release] 6,000 pieces. That’s more than the entire annual production of A. Lange & Sohne,” he quips.

From one-of-a-kind to one-of-many

Before the Industrial Revolution, watches were usually bespoke creations, handcrafted for elite patrons who prized their technicity and artistry. That changed dramatically at the turn of the 20th century, when mass production, standardisation and the use of interchangeable components transformed the Swiss (and later, global) watch industry, making timepieces more widely accessible than ever.

By the 1970s, limited editions began gaining traction – but now for strategic rather than artisanal reasons. Audemars Piguet’s now-iconic Royal Oak (Ref. 5402ST) debuted in 1972 as a trial run of just 1,000 pieces, cautiously testing the market with its bold design and price tag. The success of that initial release led to further small series, and ultimately, a legend was born. Meanwhile, Patek Philippe introduced its first limited edition series in 1979 – not for a corporate anniversary, but to commemorate a historic Swiss shooting competition. Only 100 pocket watches with hunter case backs were produced.

How to be a discerning buyer

Today, true limited editions usually reflect production constraints – such as a complicated movement or artisanal dial – or they’re tied to licensing agreements in co-branded models. On the flip side, some releases change nothing but the dial colour, yet still up the price tag. “Limited edition watches are celebrated for their rarity, but true long-term value depends on much more,” explains Sharon Chan, head of department and director of Watches in Asia, Bonhams. “Distinctive technical design, complexity of craftsmanship, timeless aesthetics, and strong brand heritage are what truly set a watch apart.” “Nobody likes a lazy limited edition,” says Tom Chng, founder of Singapore Watch Club, which has collaborated with the likes of Cartier and Vacheron Constantin to produce limited editions for its members. “We always try to work on the concept to make it something that their owners will enjoy and love for decades,” he adds.

Astute buyers aren’t fazed by the label. Deborah Wong, co-founder of the TickTockBelles, a community of female watch collectors, shares that she isn’t drawn to a watch because it’s a limited edition. But if the watch she has her eye on happens to be limited, then it’s a bonus. “I don’t confuse limited edition with rarity,” she explains. “There are vintage watches that may not be limited editions, but because the known production is so small and they’re not easily available in the market, they’re rare.” When assessing a limited edition timepiece, Deborah considers the rarity of materials used, the type of high complications it has, its artisanal merit (and the skill sets required of the artisans to achieve such quality), the historical value associated with the watch, and so on.

Look past the allure of limited editions

Not all limited editions are destined for resale glory. The ones that do appreciate in monetary value – such as the Omega Speedmaster “Snoopy Award” editions (the 2003 version commanded about US$24,000 in 2023, or 7.5 times its original retail price) or the 2023 Rolex Daytona “Le Mans” (reports indicate premiums of up to 276.5 per cent above retail in 2025) – succeed because of heritage, rarity and cultural cachet. In general, however, limited editions don’t “increase your batting average”, as Peter explains. “If you look at the previous five years’ records of timepieces that have enjoyed big jumps, you’re talking about the Royal Oak, the [Patek Philippe] 5711, or any Rolex sports watches. None of these are limited editions.”

For collectors like Deborah , resale value doesn’t typically influence her purchasing decision. She cites the difficulty in predicting market dynamics over the mid- to long-term. “I buy what I like, which means sometimes, the watch may go up or come down in value. As a collector, the joy comes from owning a collection that you enjoy wearing, not parking in a safe waiting for the value to rise.” Hype fades and craftsmanship endures. In the end, shrewd collectors buy what resonates with them. A truly great limited edition is about the story, the soul, and the time it captures. As Tom puts it: “Understand its story, and if that moves you, then that’s your watch.” “Choose a watch you truly love,” sums up Joey Luk, Sotheby’s global head of Watch Collections (Sourcing & Sales). “If it’s just an investment and not something you enjoy wearing, it will end up locked away in a safe, never appreciated.”