This is the trending ingredient to try for bouncy skin and glossy hair
Beauty products containing peptides have been touted as "the hottest thing" over the past year. It is not a new ingredient, so why the sudden resurgence in interest?
By Balvinder Sandhu -
With the recent emphasis on simplifying our skincare routines through skin-streamlining, many of us have learned how to maximise the benefits of the ingredients in our beauty products. Peptides are among the most potent ingredients, offering a host of benefits. Their popularity extends online as well, with the hashtag #peptide garnering over 340 million views on TikTok.
The enduring appeal of peptides could also be attributed to its function as "tiny building blocks for proteins", says Dr Lee Hwee Chyen from Epi Dermatology & Laser Specialist Clinic.
She explains that proteins are crucial for regenerative and healing functions in our body, such as forming tissues and supporting our immune system.
“These peptide structures hold important jobs in our bodies. Some act like messengers, sending signals for different functions. Others work as support beams, helping to give structure to cells and tissues.
“Peptides are like small teams of amino acids doing important tasks in our bodies and sometimes, they're used in products to help keep things like our skin and hair in good shape,” adds Dr Lee.
The benefits of peptides
Different peptides serve different purposes, with anti-ageing is among its many benefits.
“There are various types of peptides with some possessing anti-ageing properties,” says Dr Lee. “Bioactive peptides, in particular, have demonstrated various effects such as antioxidant, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial activities and have, in recent years, been used in cosmetic formulations.”
She adds that, generally, cosmetic peptides are categorised as – signalling peptides, neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides, enzyme-inhibiting peptides and carrier peptides. Signalling peptides help with tissue repair, wound healing and cell regeneration, while enzyme-inhibitor peptides can block certain enzymes that cause pigmentation, tissue degradation and ageing.
“One popular neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptide is acetyl hexapeptide-3 (Argireline), that is commonly used in skincare products and offers anti-wrinkle and moisturising effects. It works quite similarly to botox (or botulinum toxin) by inhibiting the release of neurotransmitters at the neuromuscular junction,” says Dr Lee.
Finally, carrier peptides aid in transporting and "carrying" trace elements like copper and manganese to the skin, which are crucial for wound healing and tissue repair. This helps with anti-ageing and skin rejuvenation.
Peptides also have a positive impact on the lips. “Peptides can contribute to fuller lips and improved lip texture as they stimulate collagen production and aid in skin renewal and regeneration. This is particularly beneficial for addressing rough or uneven lip surfaces,” says Dr Lee.
When used in haircare, peptides contribute to healthier and stronger hair growth by stimulating and repairing damaged hair cuticles, increasing blood circulation and nutrient delivery to hair roots.
Despite the promising qualities of peptides, Dr. Lee offers a few words of caution. She notes that peptides can be costly, and it's important to acknowledge that the effectiveness of peptides in skincare products can vary, with individual responses differing.
Additionally, the specific type of peptides and their concentration in a product, as well as the product’s formulation, can influence outcomes. As with any skincare ingredient, it's advisable to patch-test new products and consult with a dermatologist if you have specific skin concerns or conditions.
“The scientific data on peptides is still not as robust as that of other well-known skincare ingredients such as retinoids and AHAs, which have been around for years,” She says.
Peptides for beginners
Four products to add to your beauty routine.
UV protection is important for your lips when you're outdoors and will keep them looking young. Lipshade 100% Mineral SPF 30 is infused with natural peppermint oil and contains ingredients such as shea butter, rosehip oil and natural peptides. Supergoop!'s first lipstick is a buildable, bold colour that protects, softens and nourishes your lips. Available in five shades.
This eye mask promises to reduce the appearence of fine lines and wrinkles, as well as improve hydration. It has a potent peptide complex specifically to fight fine lines, as well as vitamins to improve discolouration. Use it for 20 minutes for a refreshed and brighter eye area.
Give your dry and frizzy hair some TLC with this hair mask, a cult favourite that has won multiple awards in Japan and Taiwan. This improved formulation is fortified with a new Pearl Peptide ingredient and twice the amount of Squalane – both of these work together to make hair more shiny and supple. The gel-like texture is easy to put on and your hair will look nourished and silky smooth.
TFC8 is the brand’s proprietary, skin cellular-renewing technology that comprises natural amino acids, vitamins and peptides, said to address issues such as fine lines, wrinkles redness, cellulite and stretch marks. This cleanser has a lightweight gel texture that transforms into a luxurious, rich lather and is infused with eucalyptus.