The Middle East is slowly becoming the Europe of perfume—and we are taking notes

When most people think of luxury perfumery, Paris—or other European capitals and maisons—come to mind. But in the early 1980s, a new story began in Oman: one rooted not in skyscrapers or fashion houses, but in generosity, hospitality, and a deep connection to nature. From this ethos, Amouage was born.

Its first fragrances, created as lavish gifts for royalty, featured rare ingredients and even 24-karat gold, earning Amouage a reputation as “one of the most valuable perfumes in the world.” Yet the house’s appeal goes beyond luxury—it embodies Oman’s values: a measured pace of life, respect for privacy, and a balance of generosity and refined discretion.

Today, that philosophy is being experienced up close in Singapore, where Amouage opened its first long-term pop-up at Raffles City in November. Designed as a sensorial retreat in the heart of the city, the pop-up offers visitors an intimate space to explore the Maison’s celebrated fragrances, including Guidance, Purpose, and the Library Collection, alongside the newest luxury body line extensions debuting in Singapore. The space reflects the same balance of generosity, refinement, and creativity that defines Amouage globally.

For Renaud Salmon, Creative Director of Amouage, the secret ingredient isn’t only the finest materials. “Perfume takes time to harmonise and develop,” he explains. This patience, combined with a philosophy of translating emotion into scent, defines the house today.

We spoke to Salmon about how these values shape every Amouage fragrance, from ingredient choices to the long maturation process, and how emotion guides the creative journey.

How do the values of Oman influence Amouage fragrances?

Amouage portrays the values of the country and the region—people are hospitable, gifting is part of the culture, there is no hidden agenda. Oman specifically has a slow life, and they value time and quietness, as well as responsible development. People welcome you with open arms but remain discreet and humble. Generosity and maximalism are expressed in a refined and tasteful way that is also discreet. That balance is what Amouage has been able to strike.

What role does time play in creating your perfumes?

Perfume takes time to harmonise and develop—it’s underestimated in the fragrance world. Two of the nine steps in Amouage, maturation and maceration, involve watching the perfume age. It can take up to seven months.

Why are ingredients so central to Amouage?

At Amouage, we use more than 700 ingredients, both natural and synthetic, sourced from all around the world including Oman. We use a trifecta of ingredients—frankincense, rose, and ambergris—selectively. Frankincense is a resin, part of the culture of the region, created for centuries and used in religion… it acts like a canvas for the rest of the ingredients. This long-lasting matrix captures elements for a long time.

How do you approach translating emotion into fragrance?

The reason I create perfumes is to exteriorise a strong emotion that I feel, a personal experience I encounter. I need to translate that into a perfume so others can relate to that feeling. Like when writing a song, the story is personal, but when creating perfume, it can’t and should not be a personal story, only the feeling behind it. I extrapolate that emotion almost like a moodboard, using references from music, art, and cinema. That becomes the starting point for work with the perfumer, who connects with colour, texture, and mood.

Why do you think is the reason why fragrances from the region are drawing the rest of the world in?

People are seeking to be unique and live their own life, choosing perfumes from unexpected places. Those buying high perfumery also expect long-lasting fragrances of exceptional quality, and we reflect that same standard globally.

Which fragrances would you recommend for Singapore and the region?

In my opinion, Guidance is a global phenomenon—its stars align to create a unique smell that is so particular. In Singapore, with its humid weather, I see the city as having a striking contrast between man-made and nature. I highlight fragrances that give off the same feeling: modernity but also lush nature, like Purpose and Decision, and perhaps Existence, which captures life among the crowds and skyscrapers.