From The Straits Times    |

Sabato De Sarno’s debut collection for Gucci was a refreshing departure from the eccentric glamour of his predecessor Alessandro Michele. De Sarno’s focus on sensibility over theatricality is indeed a welcome change for the Gucci consumer and its owner, French luxury group Kering, which was reported to be increasing its investments to revive its star label this year.

On that clean slate, one of the key highlights in De Sarno’s Gucci is the mini hemline but this time, the focus is on the more wearable mini dress. The designer, whose resume included tenures at luxury powerhouses Valentino and Prada, opened the show with a series of minimalist mini dresses, such as a strapless white number followed by a leather monogram embossed version in black. He showcased dressier versions of the ’60s-inspired tunics during the finale – some trimmed with lace and others embellished in crystals (Michele-era Gucci fans would be pleased), but all styled in an insouciant, casual manner.

At Chanel, Versace and Missoni and Michael Kors, mini dresses adopted a ’60s silhouette reminiscent of the 1967 film Valley of the Dolls. Other stunners include a luxe gold foil piece at Miu Miu, the punk-slash-baroque mini dress at Maison Margiela, and the crinoline-ring toga versions at Tory Burch.

Marni’s Francesco Risso presented soft-bonded techno knitwear rendered in rainbow-coloured combinations of textural checks and stripes, deserving a shoutout. However, it was the Italian brand’s 3D dresses, meticulously moulded and painted from dozens of tin to resemble metallic flowers, that took home the trophy for the most ingenious take on the mini dress.

Boheme mini slip dress with feathers, $259.40, Sleeper.com

Bahia twisted cotton mini dress, $724, Jacquemus at Net-a-porter.com

Sequinned dress, $119, Zara

Short off-the-shoulder dress, $59.90, Mango

Mio ruched stretch-mesh halterneck mini dress, $303, Norma Kamali at Net-a-porter.com