It’s no secret that whenever Maria Grazia Chiuri works on a new collection, she will make an effort to highlight other women – be it the female seamstresses, set designers or historical figures that help bring the collection to life. Chiuri is, after all, Dior’s first female creative director in its close to eight-decade history. And she did exactly that for her Spring/Summer 2023 show, held last year in Paris.
Maria Grazia Chiuri also resurrected an archival Dior print of a map of Paris (above) in the collection Credit: Dior
The Italian designer looked to fellow Italian-born noblewoman Catherine de Medici (she ruled as Queen of France from 1547 to 1559) as inspiration. Medici was recognised for donning heeled shoes, popularizing corsets and inventing an embroidery style called ‘punto madama’ – all of which Chiuri incorporated in the designs.
Among the stand-outs: lace-like bra tops paired with skirts that balloon at the hip, reminiscent of the ones worn in the French courts; platform boots with knee-high buckles that add an element of grunge; and raffia woven tops that one can easily mistake as lace.
Ahead, our selection of the best pieces from the outing to shop for.
Making its debut this season is the Dior Key, whose name is derived from the lock-and-key closure hardware on the bag. A curved silhouette – often seen in vintage frame bags – and rounded top handle (no need to squeeze your arms through tiny straps here) are defining features of the style, which also comes in a north-south permutation and various sizes.
An icon of the maison, the Lady Dior (named after the late Princess Diana who was gifted the bag by former First Lady of France Bernadette Chirac in 1995) has made an appearance in just about every collection Maria Grazia Chiuri has put out. This season, the petite version comes with a clever twist: the material which looks like jacquard is actually leather that features both the print and embroidery of Dior’s D-Flower Mimosa motif.
We envision a day basking in the sun amongst a bed of flowers with this #cottagecore wicker bag that comes with a removable leather shoulder strap
This softly-constructed bag will make for the perfect weekend accessory. The leather used sports Dior’s well-loved Macrocannage quilted effect.
In essence, the Lady D-Joy bag is the leaner and east-west version of the Lady Dior. This pretty version comes printed and embroidered with the D-Flower Violette motif.
All we have are heart eyes for these fiery red patent leather Mary Janes-inspired pumps which come with block heels measuring roughly five centimetres.
If you can’t already tell, florals have a huge role in Dior’s house codes and the Spring/Summer 2023 collection. The upper of Dior’s popular J’Adior slingbacks is embroidered with the sophisticated Petites Fleurs pattern.
Love the underwater world? Then you will like this earring that’s adorned with white resin pearls and charms featuring a red lacquered coral and a single freshwater pearl.
With Catherine de Medici as muse this season, it’s natural that the jewellery will have a regal influence. Clock this medieval-looking collar necklace, which features a resin pendant set on a mesh frame. The grosgrain ribbon fastening adds to the fairy-tale vibes.
The ruffled collar detail along the neckline mimics the ruffles you’d often see on dresses from the Renaissance era; use the belt detail to bring the waist in.
This article was originally published in Female.