Planning to resell your vintage designer bags? Here's how much they're really worth

As one of the 2000s “It” bags, the Muse was seen on a lot of celebrities. Why do you think it is iconic?
Nejla Finn (NF): It was a very easy bag. I think the target audience at the time was working women who wanted a bag that didn't look like a briefcase but still could carry things. Because at the time we had to carry our notebooks, our phones, our purse, and our wallet. So, it was a very easy bag.

The Muse bag is not a heavy bag and there was something a bit vintage-y about it and I think that's what made it so appealing, for sure.

Sabrina Joseph (SJ): The YSL Muse bag is considered iconic due to its elegant and timeless design. It was created by Yves Saint Laurent's creative director at the time, Stefano Pilati, in 2005, and it quickly became a fashion staple due to its classic shape, practicality, and luxurious materials. Additionally, its popularity was further propelled by being seen on many celebrities, including Kate Moss and Jessica Simpson, which helped to increase its desirability and iconic status.

NF: Actually, it's a catch-22, because celebrity endorsement helps and hurts your sale at the same time.You can give to every celebrity all of your collection but some things are going to stick and others are not.

When the Muse was launched, we were in a very different mindset. There were fewer brands and channels of communication. Today, you have a crazy offering when it comes to fashion products. If I Google what's the best white T-shirt to own, I'm going to have I don't know how many hits on Google. Whereas 20 years ago, there might only be three brands with the best white t-shirts.

SJ: Good question! Celebrity exposure can have both positive and negative effects. Of course celebrity endorsement and visibility create buzz and generate interest but overexposure of a product due to excessive celebrity endorsement or ubiquitous appearances in the media can lead to saturation and consumer fatigue which can ultimately harm the product's long-term popularity.

Compared to the Classic Flap and 2.55, the Cambon Ligne range has the distinct CC logo on the outside and was made in variations of styles (Reporter, Shoulder, Tote and Crossbody). Why do you think this range is iconic? 
NF: Because when the Cambon came out, the impression was that Chanel was designed for elderly women. It was not talking to a younger customer and Karl Lagerfeld took a bet on coming up with the Cambon. I think at the time they probably did shock their existing clientele and VIPs.

The Cambon is very different from all the other bags Chanel had at the time. There's no chain to the bag,a very distinctive logo and [it’s] very big. It was really shocking. I remember being in France and passing in front of Chanel. All of a sudden, there's young people in Chanel and seeing elderly women who were accustomed to going to Chanel, being a bit at a loss.

Did it work? I guess it worked because the younger generation of that time could finally flaunt a Chanel and didn't feel out of place doing it. Chanel now is democratising their brand and becoming younger.

SJ: The Chanel Cambon Ligne range is iconic because it represents a departure from Chanel's traditional designs, such as the Classic Flap and 2.55 bags. The CC logo prominently displayed on the exterior of the Cambon Ligne bags is a departure from the more subtle logo placement on other Chanel bags.

Additionally, the range is known for its bold and striking colour combinations, such as black and white, pink and black, and beige and black. The various styles of the Cambon Ligne bags, including the Reporter, Shoulder, Tote, and Crossbody, make them versatile and functional for different occasions and purposes. Finally, the bags' popularity among celebrities and influencers has further cemented their iconic status in the world of fashion.

Made by John Galliano in 2000, the bag was widely seen on reality stars (Paris and Nicole) to actresses Sarah Jessica Parker in Sex and the City, then it was forgotten in the late '00s until its revival in 2018. Since then, K-drama actresses and K-pop idols are seen wearing the bag. Did you think that the revival of the bag gained more interest in the original versions?
NF: If I show you a shadow of a Saddle bag, you know it's a Saddle bag. It's easily recognizable. I don't have to put a logo on it. When it launched, I think that the success of that bag was it was a completely different shape. It was easy to wear on your shoulder.

Dior was trying to rebrand and be a bit more new, fun and approachable to the younger generation, and a way for the brand to acquire a different customer. The launch of the Saddle worked really well because it was very different from anything our mothers carried. Galliano also created a lot of variations each season.

But at one point, it did lose its lustre. We saw it maybe a little bit too much, maybe too many celebrities were wearing it. Without the marketing help that Dior put behind the Saddle bag reissue in 2018 with a very heavy gifting campaign, I'm not too sure if this bag would have made a comeback. And by the way, I did purchase the Saddle bag in the 2000s. I kept it, and once in a while I used to take it out, and people were like, “Oh my God, you still have it?”

SJ: Yes it did. The exposure and popularity generated by influential figures like reality stars, Hollywood and K-drama actresses, and K-pop Idols have created a nostalgic appeal for the iconic design. Hence, this will translate to greater demand for the original versions of the Dior Saddle Bag, as collectors and fashion enthusiasts sought out authentic vintage pieces.

NF: Resale value is always about timing and it's really hard to decide a timing. For instance, if you're selling a handbag now, the small bag category does better as people are into small bags. Big logos and things like that are not doing really well. People want things that are more subtle.

Resale value is always about the timing and the appetite of the market. There's no secret recipe: you have to get in the market at the right moment and out of it at the right moment just like if you're trading on the stock market. I don't like commenting and giving advice when it's actually more complex than that.

SJ: Out of the four, the original design tends to have better resale value. The other variations such as the gaucho, clutch, mini shoulder bag, and bowler versions may have their own appeal, but they don’t carry the same level of recognition and desirability as the original design, which typically commands a higher resale value in the market.

NF: The original version had a velcro closure, now it's a magnet. There's more variation in sizing and they've since added extra straps. I still remember walking into Avenue Montaigne with my mum and she commented, “Oh, my God, they're doing oblique again”. And mind you, my mum is 78. So I'm like, “Oh, it's been around a few blocks”. They went hardcore with the logo, but I wouldn't be surprised that now the best values are the ones with fewer logos.

SJ: The overall shape remains the same, but there are a few differences. The original Saddle has a short detachable strap that was designed to be worn tight under the arm. On the other hand, the reissued Saddle now offers a range of long straps to wear as a crossbody.

Next would be the materials, finishes and color variations. The reissue introduces new fabrics, textures or patterns to cater to contemporary tastes and trends, while the original features designs ahead of its time in the early ‘00s - think feminine floral embroidery, denim, camouflage and logo-tastic prints.

Since its release in 1997, the Fendi Baguette has always been in production every year and cemented its status as an icon in Sex and the City. Throughout the ever-changing cycle of trends, why do you think it’s endured so much? 
NF: The shape of it is pretty timeless and Fendi has always managed to create some pretty amazing and unique pieces. They're not produced massively as well. There's always something interesting when it comes to new designers of theBaguette, whether it's the embroidery or the clasp.

SJ: Its endurance most notably in Sex and the City has helped establish the Baguette as a coveted and fashionable accessory. The bag’s compact shape and distinctive front flap allow it to transcend seasonal trends and remain relevant over time, making it a timeless design.

NF: Well, knowing the price point of Baguette nowadays versus how much it was 10 or 15 years ago, clearly you would have a better deal if you bought yours 10-15 years ago and decided to resell it now.

SJ: Generally, the vintage Baguette tends to have better resale value due to its rarity and historical significance. Additionally, certain limited editions or discontinued styles can command higher prices in the resale market. However, the resale value depends on factors such as condition, rarity, and demand for the particular model.