Forgotten "It" bags of the 2000s: Worth it, or just nostalgic hype?

The Y2K comeback is just starting, but can the revival outlast the hype?

By Michelle Varinata - 23 May 2023

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What makes a bag so special we christen it with iconic "It" bag status? In this four-part series where we deep dive into the "It" bags of the '2000s, We speak to Nejla Finn of The Fifth Collection and Sabrina Joseph of Hunt Street, who both founded their own luxury resale platforms in Singapore, to get the real scoop on whether these bags are worth relooking into.

From flipping through magazines during exam breaks as a teen, to scrolling through Instagram in the middle of your 9 to 6, it feels like time never passed.

As fickle as fashion is, the Y2K era is the latest decade to hit through the trend cycle thanks to the global lockdowns during the pandemic and the TikTok boom in 2020. Though some of us millennials grew up and went through puberty in the 2000s (anyone born from 1990 to 1996), we have literally lived through the decade by dolling up like we’re Gossip Girl characters or Hollywood “It” girls in Juicy Couture velour tracksuits.

We watched our mums and our 2000s style icons like Mischa Barton, Nicole Richie and Lindsay Lohan tote around designer bags, envying them as they were caught on paparazzi walks with a Balenciaga hanging off the crook of their elbows or a Fendi Baguette on their shoulders.

Now that our mums sport Goyard totes, we’ve dusted off the bags we once coveted out of their closet. Though the once-shiny hardware and fresh paint of tanned leather felt new then, the dulled shine and cracks on the hide didn’t deter us from flaunting it on the ‘gram/Tok. From Korea to Hollywood, internationally known “It” girls from BLACKPINK's Jisoo to Rihanna have been reviving the classics.

In 2018, Maria Grazia Chiuri dug out Dior’s archives to resurrect The Saddle, a shoulder bag designed by her predecessor John Galliano. Most recently, Marc Jacobs tore a page from Chiuri’s book by resurrecting The Stam, a coin purse-inspired bowler bag with a heavy chain strap, and tapped the Y2K queen Paris Hilton as one of the campaign girls alongside Ashanti and Ashlee Simpson.

Although certain “It” bags have outlasted their (supposed) expiry date, the demand for the once-forgotten “It” bags have suddenly spiked up in resale sites like The Fifth Collection, Vestiaire Collective, Style Tribute and Hunt Street.

Looking to relieve your youth by purchasing one of these bags? Or maybe you're looking to reflip these designer goodies on the resale market and you're curious as to how much they can fetch you. In this first instalment of our forgotten 2000s "It" bags series, Nejla Finn of The Fifth Collection and Sabrina Joseph of Hunt Street talk to us about the history of these “It” bags, their current demand, and the relevance they have on fashion and pop culture.

The 2000s are coming back and so many styles from that era are either reissued or selling like hotcakes. Why do you think these forgotten "It" bags are coming back in style after so many years of not being in demand?

1/4

Nejla Finn (NF): Well, I think social media and celebrities sporting those bags have helped. We've seen a lot of celebrities coming back with looks from the past. But, I also think that that's always the case in fashion, right? Old things become new again and vice versa. So way before we start seeing the Marc Jacobs [Stam] doing a comeback or the [Prada] nylon bag, the Saddle bag did a huge comeback a couple of years ago. But, that's completely natural in fashion.

The only thing is [that] the cycle goes faster just because we have access to inspiration in a faster way and maybe in a less creative way. You choose who you follow. And I also believe that the younger generation wants to have access to those bags. Most of the bags that you're mentioning are rather cheap and get purchased secondhand. If you look at the price of some classic bags that I'm sure those same customers would love to own, the price of those bags are a little bit steeper than thrifting a nylon bag from Prada or the Paddington from Chloé. I think there it's just more accessible.

Sabrina Joseph (SJ): Firstly, fashion trends are cyclical, they come and go so styles from the past often resurface in the present day. The rise of social media has made it easier for consumers to discover and share vintage styles so naturally, consumers are becoming more environmentally conscious and investing in vintage or pre-loved fashion items. Lastly, the 2000s were a time of significant cultural change, and the bold and flashy bags of that era resonate with younger consumers looking for unique and expressive fashion items.

Some "It" bags like Balenciaga's First and YSL's Muse have taken new iterations (think Cagole and Muse 2). Do you think these variations of the original help consumers garner interest in the same styles or do you think this is intentionally done to make sure that the original versions of these bags do not get extinct from overexposure?

2/4

NF: [laughs] It's pretty complex. If you take the Cagole, for instance. First of all, the name in French, it's slang for something else that very few customers know about it. I don't think the Cagole has helped with those bags. Those bags on The Fifth Collection always have a pretty good sell-through rate. You're not going to make tons of money off reselling those bags, but you are going to be able to resell them.

The YSL Muse is a little bit different. I'm not sure if it's because a lot of the iterations that you see out there are often in dark colours, but with the Balenciaga you have so many different colours. They’re quirky, and their leather and patina is made to age. So I always felt that there was always a community for the Balenciaga.

SJ: Variations of the original "It" bags help to keep the styles relevant and interesting to consumers, while also ensuring that the original versions do not become “extinct” from overexposure. On one hand, introducing new versions of popular bags like the Balenciaga First or YSL Muse allows brands to keep the styles fresh and appealing to consumers who may be looking for something slightly different from the original. This can help maintain interest in the brand and its products, and also attract new customers who may have previously overlooked the original version.

On the other hand, creating new versions of these bags also helps to prevent overexposure of the original design, which could lead to a decline in demand for that particular style. By introducing new variations, brands can generate buzz and interest without saturating the market with too many identical products.

Therefore, variations of the original "It" bags serve as a smart business strategy that benefits both brands and consumers. By offering fresh takes on classic designs, brands can stay relevant in a constantly evolving market, while consumers can enjoy new options while still appreciating the original version.

Compared to the '90s , 2000s handbags are all about bags that either sit on the shoulders or at the crook of the elbow regardless of size. With such placement of these bags, do you think that it has brought the bag to gain more prominence in street style photos and resale value?

3/4

NF: Well, first of all, most of the bags you’re talking about have a tendency of being small bags. And in the last couple of years, the “It” bags of big luxury brands all happen to be small bags. Just because right now when you go out, you don't really need to take the wallet anymore. You just need to fit your phone and keys. Sometimes, you can even have your keys on your phone.

I think our lifestyle has changed so much that those bags seem to fit very well within our new lifestyle such as bags that you can put under your shoulder. That's the only thing I'm really noticing. The small ones are doing very well, but the big ones, not so much. A lot of non-luxury brands are also imitating those kinds of shapes, so by buying second-hand branded ones, you differentiate yourself.

SJ: Of course! Shoulder bags and elbow-carry bags offer a hands-free convenience that other bag styles, such as handheld bags, cannot. They also tend to be more comfortable to carry for longer periods, making them a practical option for everyday wear. Additionally, these bags can be styled in various ways, making them versatile and suitable for a wide range of outfits and occasions. As a result, they have become a popular choice for fashion-conscious individuals and have gained prominence in street style and resale markets.

Celebrities have brought in a lot of interest to these bags as seen in paparazzi photos, where their off-duty style was documented before Instagram. Even movies and TV shows turned bags into pop culture icons. Without the influence of K-pop/K-dramas and Hollywood, do you think that these bags would still gain relevance?

4/4

NF: I don't think so, actually. Like if you take the Chloé Paddington, which is a very heavy bag, I have a few friends in fashion that kept on telling me for the last ten years [that] it's going to do a comeback. We won't see that comeback until celebrities start sporting it. You take the Prada nylon. Prada relaunched their nylon with a sustainable angle, but it came within the influencers. It was driven by the influencers. I'm not really sure if it was driven by the design team or Prada going, “Hey, let’s relaunch it”. I'm a kid of the '90s and all the things that I used to wear are coming back.

SJ: Without the influence of K-pop/K-dramas and Hollywood, the popularity of late '90s and 2000s handbags would still gain relevance, but it may not have happened as quickly or as prominently. The placement of these bags on the shoulders or at the crook of the elbow regardless of size was a natural evolution of fashion, as trends often shift in response to cultural and societal changes. While celebrities certainly played a role in popularizing these bags, it is likely that they would have gained relevance through other means, such as fashion magazines, fashion blogs, or street style.

That being said, it cannot be denied that celebrities have a significant impact on fashion trends and can often make or break a particular style. Paparazzi photos and movies/TV shows featuring these bags have helped to create a sense of desire and exclusivity around these styles, which may have contributed to their continued popularity.

In conclusion, while the popularity of the late 90’s and 2000s handbags may have gained relevance without the influence of K-Pop/ K-Dramas and Hollywood, it is likely that the process would have been slower and less prominent. Celebrities have played an important role in popularizing and or influencing these bags and creating a sense of desire and exclusivity, which has contributed to their continued relevance in the fashion world.