5 rising Chinese labels to know

SHIATZY CHEN

The label is known for incorporating traditional Chinese elements and motifs - small buttons, cheongsam collars as well as dragon and floral prints - into Western dresses, separates and outerwear. The label introduced its popular men's line in 1987.

In 1990, Chen set up a studio in Paris to learn more about Western dressmaking techniques. Today, the studio also serves as a training centre for Taiwanese dressmakers and designers.

By 2008, Chen was showing her collections twice a year during Paris Fashion Week. The label now has 50stores in mainland China, 25 stores in Taiwan, as well as flagship stores in Dubai, Hong Kong, London and Paris. It is also the first Chinese brand to break into the European and American markets, in 1997 and 2001 respectively.

Famous clients: Actresses Jessica Alba and Elizabeth Hurley, designer Victoria Beckham as well as Chinese and Taiwanese dignitaries, such as Taiwanese president Ma Ying-jeou.

SHANG XIA

Its classic tailoring, simple silhouettes and exquisite craftsmanship have led the label to be touted as China's answer to Hermes, minus the hefty price tags.

Besides ready-to-wear, the brand also produces furniture and decorative art pieces inspired by and produced in China.

It is helmed by founder and creative director Jiang Qionger, 36, the daughter of renowned Chinese architect Dong Dayou, who designed the Shanghai Museum.

An artist by training, Jiang was invited in 2007 to be the first Chinese to create an Hermes window shop installation. Her work was displayed in the label's flagship store in Beijing.

Since it was acquired by the luxury French label in 2010, the four-year-old lifestyle brand has proven that "made in China" wares can boast quality designs.

Its Mao jackets are made of silk-cotton and given a modern spin with hand-stitched red seams, while its handwoven cashmere cheongsam come in on-trend colours and patterns, such as checks and digital floral prints.

Currently, the brand has two stores in mainland China and is planning to open its first international flagship store in Paris later this year.

Famous clients: While the label does not dress celebrities, its designs have been spotted on Chinese A-list actresses Fan Bingbing and Zhou Xun.

QEELIN

A fine jewellery label, widely regarded as the Tiffany of China, it was co-founded in 2004 by Chinese jewellery designer Dennis Chan, 48, and French entrepreneur, Guillaume Brochard, 49.

The label is best known for combining Chinese cultural elements, such as gourds, pandas and goldfish, with French craftsmanship.

It first made headlines when Hong Kong actress Maggie Cheung wore diamond pieces from Chan's Wulu collection to the 2004 Cannes Film Festival, where she received the Golden Palm Award for Best Actress.

Last year, French luxury group Kering (formerly known as PPR), which owns luxury brands Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta and Gucci, bought a majority stake in the Chinese jewellery house.

Apart from its two flagship stores in Beijing and Shanghai, Qeelin has 12 other stand-alone stores worldwide, including in London, Los Angeles, Paris and Tokyo.

A small selection of its jewellery is available in Singapore at Dickson Watches & Jewellery, 02-45 Wisma Atria. Prices here start from $5,000 for a diamond pendant.

Famous clients: Actresses Maggie Cheung, Misha Barton and Kate Winslet, top Chinese model Du Juan, singer Katy Perry and designer Marc Jacobs.

EXCEPTION DE MIXMIND

This Chinese label captured international attention last month when China's First Lady Peng Liyuan was photographed in its custom-made outfits.

Founded in 1996 by 42-year-old Chinese designer Ma Ke, the women's ready-to-wear label comprises pieces made from locally sourced cotton, silk, linen and wool.

The label is known for its smart tailoring as well as traditional Chinese design elements, such as the use of dragon and floral motifs. It also uses traditional dyeing, weaving and embroidery techniques.

The label is celebrated for its use of eco-friendly fabrics and recycled materials too.

Ma graduated from the Suzhou Institute of Silk Textile Technology in 1992, and studied womenswear at Central Saint Martins thereafter. She has also designed costumes for the concert of veteran Chinese singer Dadawa.

In 2007, she launched a companion label, the high-fashion Wuyong, and became the first Chinese to show at Haute Couture Week in Paris under that label.

The following year, she was invited to be a guest member, or junior couturier, of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, a prestigious organisation comprising a select group of high-fashion designers. Members have to be invited to join and they also have to meet a set of criteria, which includes having an atelier in Paris and presenting a collection of at least 35 outfits each season in Paris.

Since 2010, Ma has customised designs for Ms Peng under her two labels.

Today, Exception de Mixmind has more than 50 stores in mainland China, with a major retail presence in Shanghai, Beijing and Guangzhou.

Famous clients: China's First Lady Peng Liyuan and Chinese tennis player Li Na.

XANDER ZHOU

With its minimalist aesthetic, this menswear label is billed as the Chinese equivalent of Yves Saint Laurent.

Zhou, 31, launched his label in 2007 after studying industrial design in China and fashion design in the Netherlands.

His design philosophy centres around deconstruction - taking something familiar, such as coats or jumpers, and giving it an unexpected spin by having, say, quilting details on the back or cut-outs on the shoulders.

In January, the label made its debut at London Collections: Men, which is Britain's version of Men's Fashion Week, showing 35 menswear looks that were well-received by the international press. British Vogue called the collection "strong and accessible".

Zhou also does womenswear but for select clients.

Currently, the Beijing-based label has five stores in mainland China.

Famous clients: Chinese actresses Fan Bingbing, Zhou Xun and Xu Jinglei, as well as British singer Mika.

Images: Shiatzy Chen, Qeelin, Shang Xia, Exception De Mixmind and Xander Zhou

This article was first run in The Straits Times newspaper on April 12, 2013. For similar stories, go tosph.straitstimes.com/premium/singapore. You will not be able to access the Premium section of The Straits Times website unless you are already a subscriber.