Coach taps into the Gen-Z psyche with a play on vintage romanticism and casual everyday wear
It's giving cool Brooklyn girl
By Daniel Goh -
Creative Director Stuart Vevers, who has spent more than ten years designing at Coach, demonstrates, once again, all the winning features that have made the Brit such a success at this quintessentially American label: He has carved a niche for Coach with on-trend but never over-the-top interpretations of the fashion zeitgeist.
In this collection, exaggerated outerwear was presented as oversized tuxedo coats, raincoats, leather trench coats, and suede and shearling utility jackets, which highlight Coach’s heritage as a leather house. The surrealism trend was present in the bow and ribbon prints and gigantic ornamental bows on ball gown skirts, which had all the aplomb of a Jeff Koons sculpture, and sweet holiday sweaters with a crescent moon or a rubber duckie motif.
The collection riveted with the tension of clashing the romantic and Old World, with the real and everyday; The sheen of a tuxedo’s satin lapel was styled contrasting with graphite “C Crest” hoodies; a poufy debutante’s gown styled layered over a collegiate blazer; or cosy dad jeans styled with a gigantic moire bow that could have come straight out of The Gilded Age. They were anchored – steadily – on chunky calfskin combat boots.
“This collection is about the next generation accessing classicism and its tropes to redefine in their image and according to their needs,” said Vevers.
Edited down to just 39 looks in the grey monochrome of Manhattan (safe for a few pops of baby pink), the clothes served as a statement canvas for the newest versions of the Tabby Bag and the debut of the Brooklyn and Empire bags. These paid tribute to Coach’s New York origins (Coach was founded in 1941 in Manhattan), and came laden with charms that depicted yellow cabs, apples, pretzels, “I Love NY” mugs, the Empire State Building and the Statue of Liberty – icons beloved of tourists.