Is TCM the answer to better skin?

Feeling “heaty” and breaking out in zits? Drink lots of cooling herbal teas like chrysanthemum. Fatigued and in need of a boost? Time for some ginseng chicken soup. For many Chinese, these little pearls of time-honoured wisdom have long been part and parcel of their culture and upbringing. And now, it seems, these traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) concepts are increasingly being tapped for beauty purposes.

This isn’t exactly a new development – after all, skin nourishers like bird’s nest, essence of chicken and pearl powder have long been staples in medicine halls and have been touted by celebrities as the answer to good skin. However, it has been given a significant boost in recent times by the booming wellness trend.

Jolene Wong, co-founder of local brand Grandma Lotus, which offers ready-to-drink TCM herbal brews, says: “Lifestyles have changed over the years. There is a growing emphasis on natural ingredients.”

“Consumers are realising that outer beauty starts from inner wellness,” adds Melissa Aw-Bamadhaj, the brand’s co-founder. And now, with the anxiety caused by the pandemic and a greater emphasis on mental health, consumers are turning to TCM to deal with stress and achieve a more balanced body.

Balance, synergy and holistic care are very much what TCM and, by extension, TCM beauty is about. According to Serene Ang, a trained pharmacist who created her TCM skincare label 5erenity2 after Western medicine failed to treat her vitiligo, both are built on the same principles. “In TCM beauty products, all the ingredients must work synergistically with one another to bring about balance and healing to the skin,” she says.

Although there are many brands that champion similar concepts of wellness and balance or, like Korean giant Sulwhasoo, feature the same herbal and botanical ingredients, that does not necessarily mean they fall under the TCM beauty umbrella. Lam Man Sze, also a co-founder of Grandma Lotus and a licensed TCM physician, explains further: “In
TCM, beauty forms when you achieve overall wellness. This requires a combination of factors like our choice of food, a lifestyle that suits our body constitution, even mindfulness in managing our thoughts and emotions.”

The appeal of TCM beauty remedies have extended well beyond the auntie-and-grandma generations. At her practice, Lam says she now encounters more inquiries from patients regarding issues related to TCM beauty, especially from young adults. “It’s possibly due to the fast-paced and stressful lifestyle in Singapore. Statistically, there is an observed increase in the number of younger people being afflicted by medical conditions that used to manifest mainly in older folks. This has motivated the younger generation to be more conscientious in their lifestyle,” she says.

Grandma Lotus Beauty Bloom, $19.90 for 12 bags

1/5

A blend of honeysuckle, osmanthus and rose, this fragrant and caffeine-free floral tea helps to promote detoxification, and boost blood and “qi” circulation. Red dates lend a sweet aftertaste.

Available at grandmalotus.com

Eu Yan Sang Nourishing Essence Face Mask, $49.90 for three sheets

2/5

Get glowing, youthful skin with this intensely hydrating sheet mask. Bird’s nest and niacinamide stimulate skin repair and collagen production, while ginseng root and grape extracts help to brighten skin and reduce the look of lines.

Available at euyansang.com.sg

Sulwhasoo Concentrated Ginseng Renewing Cream EX, $330 for 60ml

3/5

Now into its fifth iteration, this top-selling anti-ageing moisturiser’s improved formula uses the vitalising energy of ginseng to refresh and firm tired, dull skin. Choose from two versions: “Classic” or “Soft” , which has a lighter texture and fragrance.

Available at Sulwhasoo boutiques and counters.

5erenity2 Renew Serum, $98

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It has TCM herbs like ginseng to maintain skin’s “yin-yang” balance, while antioxidants and hyaluronic acid deliver hydration and protect against premature ageing. Suitable for all skin types, particularly dull, pigmented or dehydrated skin.

Available at 5erenity2.com

Wei Royal Ming Empress Cream, $160

5/5

This rich-textured moisturiser promises to soften, smooth and firm skin using a formula that was reportedly used in beauty tonics for the Ming dynasty imperial house. Key ingredients include antioxidant-rich peonies, pearl powder, ginseng root and hydrating Tibetan safflower.

Available at Sephora

This story was first published in the October 2021 issue of Her World.