What is "skin brightening" and do brightening products work?

A while ago, beauty giant L'Oreal announced that they would be dropping the usage of words such as "whitening", "fair" and "light" from their product descriptions and names.

The decision came a day after Unilever did it in reaction to the social media criticism it faced. Johnson & Johnson also followed suit and committed to stop selling skin whitening creams sold across Asia and the Middle East under its Neutrogena and Clean & Clear brands. 

With beauty giants like L’Oreal, Unilever, and Johnson & Johnson making the public commitment to stop using words like “whitening”, “fair”, and “light”, it’s becoming more and more clear that beauty is no longer a standalone concept. There’s a dimensional approach to beauty where people look to brands for its ethical, sustainable, and even cultural implications.

If you’ve been familiar with Asian beauty products for a while now, you’ve likely seen the term on Korean or Japanese beauty products. Generally speaking, for K-beauty and J-beauty products, “skin whitening” products are formulated to give you more radiant and luminescent skin. The phrase speaks more accurately to the texture and health of the skin, not necessarily a lighter colour.

Is “skin whitening” the same as “skin brightening”?

When it comes to most K-beauty and J-beauty products, the term “skin whitening” is generally used interchangeably with the term “skin brightening”. And skin brightening products in this context focus on ridding the skin of hyperpigmentation, blemishes, or dullness.

How do skin brightening products work?

Brightening products can be separated into three categories: ingredients that stop pigment-producing cells, ingredients that prevent pigment transfer, and ingredients that encourage cell turnover. Antioxidants, vitamin C, and niacinamide are ideal if you want your skin brightening products to work hard for you.

For example, Tyrosinase is an enzyme that’s responsible for the first step of melanin production. When your cells have been damaged by pimples or acne, this enzyme sends an excess of Tyrosine – which results in overproduction of pigment. Ingredients like vitamin C, licorice extract, and arbutin inhibit this enzyme from overproduction. They help prevent and lighten acne scars or hyperpigmentation from blemishes. With the treatment of these ingredients, the enzyme still acts as a defense mechanism for your skin, it just prevents overproduction so that the scars aren’t too dark and will take a shorter time to heal.

Then there’s alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) and beta hydroxy acids (BHA) that speed up the rate of cell turnover. The two work on the uppermost layer of the skin and benefit the skin by improving the look of dull and uneven skin tones and smoothen out the texture. AHA ingredients like lactic acid, glycolic acid, and BHA ingredients like salicylic acid are renowned for their anti-ageing impact on the skin.

How often should I use skin brightening products?

With factors like environmental pollutants and exposure to UV rays, it’s important to use skin brightening products regularly. After all, brightening products help get rid of dead skin cells, reduce blemishes and fade spots, and trade it all in for a clearer complexion.

Here is a list of seven skin brightening products that can help give you the perfect glow.

#1 Sulwhasoo Snowise Brightening Cleansing Foam, $52 (150 ml)

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Along with the white clay components that help remove impurities on the skin for a clean and brighter look, the addition of licorice root extract works as a natural skin lightening agent to inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme that causes overproduction of pigment. Licorice root extract also refines the tone gently without any cause for irritation.

#2 Hada Labo Premium Whitening Lotion, $25.90 (170 ml)

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This lotion uses tranexamic acid, a topical skincare ingredient that helps to reduce hyperpigmentation. Research has shown that tranexamic acid in amounts between 2-5% easily rivals the results of over-the-counter amounts of hydroquinone, an ingredient that has long been considered to be the gold standard for fading skin discolouration. Alongside extra hydration and plumpness, the Hada Labo Premium Whitening Lotion brightens the complexion, lightens dark spots, and refines the texture.

#3 Laneige White Dew Sherbet Cream, $70 (50 ml)

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Formulated with Saururus Chinensis extract, this plant-derived ingredient holds a brightening effect that reduces the appearance of dark spots and uneven skin tone by filling melanocytes with moisture. Its sherbet-like texture delivers a cool and moisturised texture to give the skin that dewy, supple look.

#4 Su:m37 Water-full Radiant Hydrating Glow Cream, $182 (50 ml)

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With the addition of niacinamide, the Su:m37 Water-full Radiant Hydrating Glow Cream improves the appearance of enlarged pores, fine lines, and uneven skin tone. Regular use of niacinamide-rich products will leave the skin radiant and help repair damage from UV light and environmental pollutants.

#5 Sooryehan Chunsam Radiant White Essence, $155 (40 ml)

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Infused with a botanical complex of plum blossom and lily, the two work together to boost clarity and radiance and improve and smoothen out any uneven skin texture. It delivers a soft and illuminated complexion that brightens the skin from within.

#6 Kiehl's 12.5% Powerful-Strength Line-Reducing Concentrate, $188 (75 ml)

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Formulated with 12.5 per cent vitamin C and hyaluronic acid, this power-packed anti-ageing serum increases the skin’s radiance and improves the texture by visibly minimising pores overtime for a smoother complexion. Carefully-formulated for all skin types, this concentrated serum is ideal even for sensitive skin.

#7 Kosme Cosmeport Clear Turn Artisan Brightening Mask, $10.90

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Using a concentration of coix seed extract, this brightening mask is perfect for textured or dull skin. Coix, also known as Job’s Tears, is commonly used to brighten the skin and reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation. It also helps control acne breakouts and sebum production.



This article was first published in The Singapore Women's Weekly.