Fighting skin-ageing effects: How to ease into retinol in your 20s and 30s

When it comes to preserving your skin’s youthful glow and vitality, the importance of starting early cannot be overstated. 

In fact, aesthetic doctor Rachel Ho advises kick-starting an anti-ageing skincare routine in your mid-20s, if not your 30s.

This is because our skin faces diverse challenges that go beyond natural wear and tear. Stress, a lack of sleep and using our smartphones for prolonged periods all play a part in causing skin to age faster. Dr Ho explains that the posture we adopt during our endless scrolling sessions – often dubbed “tech neck” – can also deepen neck creases. 

“What’s more, the High-Energy Visible Light (HEVL) and Infrared (IR) rays from the sun can indeed damage the skin,” she adds.

How your skin ages in your 20s and 30s

"In the mid-20s, one might start to see dull skin, enlarged pores and early hyperpigmentation,” she says. These are the years when preventative measures can make a significant impact. 

To lay the foundation for youthful skin in your 20s, Dr Ho says that “using retinol to build collagen and increase cell turnover, sunscreen to protect against UV rays, and vitamin C to lighten dark spots is an evidence-based approach.”

As you transition into your 30s, this regimen not only remains relevant but becomes even more critical. “From age 30 onwards, wrinkles and sagging become more obvious. So the same anti-ageing routine you started in your 20s will serve you well into your 30s and beyond," says Dr Ho.

While many of us may know that anti-ageing serums and retinol aren’t just reserved for your 40s and beyond, starting your retinol journey may seem intimidating. 

The importance of retinol 

If there's one ingredient that stands out in the realm of anti-ageing, it's retinol. Not only does it help smooth out those pesky fine lines, it is also a game-changer for skin turnover and collagen production.

Dr Ho points out that "retinol is one of the most well-studied active ingredients for anti-ageing, compared to newer and more trending ingredients, and is often regarded as the ‘gold standard’ in skincare for anti-ageing benefits”. 

The benefits of using retinol on your skin include reduced dark spots, more even skin tone, reduced appearance of fine lines, smoother skin and less clogged pores, Dr Ho explains. 

We know that retinol is good for you but, despite its proven efficacy, a common misconception is that retinol is too harsh for the skin. 

"The risk of retinoid dermatitis is concentration and formulation dependent," says Dr Ho, emphasising that a well-formulated product can minimise potential irritation and make consistent retinol use tolerable. 

Ease into retinol with a powerhouse formula

For first-timers, Dr Ho advises using retinol at night and starting with a low concentration, applying it on alternate days for two weeks. 

A great way to start using retinol is by using skincare products that incorporate active ingredients with synergistic effects that allows your skin to adapt to the ingredient slowly. 

For instance, did you know that Laneige has integrated this powerhouse ingredient into its Perfect Renew 3X Signature Serum? 

While the Korean skincare brand may be well known for its hydration-focused products like the Water Bank and Water Sleeping Mask, also noteworthy is its new anti-ageing Perfect Renew range, launched earlier this year. 

By combining three potent serums, including retinol, in one bottle, the Laneige Perfect Renew 3X Signature Serum helps combat skin-ageing effects to help you achieve more radiant, firmer and smoother skin. 

The three serums are:

• Firming serum: Contains 2,500,000 micro retinol capsules in each drop, which offer multiple benefits, such as less collagenase (the enzyme in our bodies that destroys collagen) and aiding in skin repair.

• Basal Glow serum: A super low molecular weight bioflavonoid extracted from camellia seed. After testing nearly 70 ingredients, Laneige found that bioflavonoid was the most effective at the targeted removal of aged cells, replacing them with younger cells. Dr Ho explains that, when used together with retinol, bioflavanoids help make retinol less irritating to the skin. These compounds also have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects, as well as help protect against blue light. 

• Anti-Wrinkle serum: Contains a rich 21.5 per cent collagen peptide complex to help improve your skin’s firmness and elasticity. Dr Ho notes that peptides have a calming and moisturising effect, which helps reduce the potential for retinol to irritate the skin. This allows for more consistent retinol use. “Some peptides also have the effect of firming the skin and reducing the appearance of fine wrinkles,” she adds.

This cocktail of high-efficacy, yet gentle skin-loving ingredients work in synergy to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and sagginess caused by both natural and tech-induced skin-ageing. 

A clinical trial of 31 women, aged between 20 and 55, conducted by Laneige over four weeks in 2022 showed these results:

• 25 per cent of the women noticed more glowy skin
• 32 per cent said they experienced a firming effect
• 48.1 per cent said they saw a reduction in wrinkles.

The women had applied the serum twice a day, in the morning and at night. 

The purity of retinol matters

When it comes to keeping your skin smooth and supple, not all retinol is created equal. Dr Ho emphasises, "Using pure retinol as opposed to precursors of retinol is more effective." 

This is particularly important for areas more susceptible to fine lines, such as the forehead and around the eyes. To that end, consider the Laneige Perfect Renew Youth Retinol, an eye cream that can also be used on other parts of the face. 

It contains three key ingredients: Super Pure Retinol, which helps to boost collagen production, 90 per cent pure tripeptides which have the effect of firming and lifting the skin, as well as “five-layer” hyaluronic acid which helps skin absorb retinol better and plump skin. 

A four-week clinical trial of the product conducted by the Global Medical Research Center in 2020, which surveyed 32 women aged between 20 and 49, found that skin sagginess in the cheeks and jawline was improved by about 30 per cent and 27 per cent respectively. The women used the cream twice a day. 

To protect your skin while using retinol, Dr Ho recommends to avoid using it together with exfoliating acids. You should also wear sunscreen in the day, as retinol increases the skin’s sensitivity to sun exposure. 

The Perfect Renew range is available at Laneige stores and on their website.