Images of frizzy, over the top curls often come into mind when you think about perms. But today’s perms promise softer, looser waves that look oh-so-natural. Best bit? These treatments harness a slew of reparative ingredients to still keep your mane healthy and manageable.
So before you take the plunge, here’s what you should know about the different types of perms.
What’s a perm?
“A perm changes the shape and texture of our hair, and more recently, its ‘direction’ too,” says Kelly Chew, associate director at Chez Vous: Hideaway.
"The term perm (which is short for permanent waving) involves chemically altering the structure of the hair to create curls or waves that are set in place. The process typically involves applying a solution, often containing chemicals such as ammonium thioglycolate or ammonium sulfite, to break the disulfide bonds in the hair. This makes the hair more pliable and allows it to be reshaped into the desired curl or wave pattern. After which, a neutraliser is applied to reform the disulfide bonds and hold the hair in its new shape," adds Ted Kim, director of Suchehwa by Ted.
And while perms are usually associated with curls and waves, Kim shares that perms can also be used to achieve other effects, such as “adding body, volume or texture to the hair”.
But more importantly, perms can turn out differently depending on a variety of factors, such as the size of rods used, processing time and the hair’s natural texture and condition. For instance, larger rods create looser waves or a gentler bend while smaller rods produce tighter curls.
A popular option for creating natural-looking curls or waves, says Kai Wen Tan, senior stylist at Prep Luxe. “It uses hot rods connected to a machine that controls the temperature and timing of waves, resulting in precise and uniform waves. This style is perfect for adding volume and texture to the hair.”
And as it uses a lower heat temperature compared to ceramic perms, it creates lesser complications if you’re looking to touch-up your perm after the curls have loosened, says Chew.
Unlike traditional perms that utilise heat from perm rods or heated styling tools, this relies on a chemical solution to create the curls or waves in the hair, explains Kim. It’s also ideal for adding volume or creating soft, loose curls.
In addition, Kai adds that the cold perm is gentler on the hair, and can be used on shorter hair to produce tight ringlets or waves.
Though one thing to note is that “the curls achieved from cold wave perms do not last as long as those from digital perms,” says Kim.
Similar to a digital perm, this also uses heated rollers, which result in tight curls and ringlets. The good news: The curls can last up to several months.
And the not-so-good news: Since it uses a higher heat temperature, ceramic perms tend to be more damaging than digital, explains Chew.
Also known as a “spot perm” or a “partial perm”, this technique focuses on perming only a specific portion of the hair, usually the roots or the area closest to the scalp, Kim explains. “This localised perming process allows for the creation of more height and fullness at the roots while leaving the rest of the hair straight.” The result is the illusion of thicker, more voluminous hair and is great if you have fine and limp locks.
As the names suggest, the difference between S-curls and C-curls lie in the shape and size of the curls, which is based on the curling rods used during the perm.
“An S-curl perm creates waves or curls that resemble the shape of the letter ‘S’, and are often associated with a beachy or bohemian look. This type of perm creates softer, flowing curls that provide a more effortless and casual vibe,” Kim explains.
A C-curl perm results in curls that frame the face in a soft and inward manner, resembling the cursive letter “C”, says the experts. The result is a style that has bounce, structure and a sense of elegance.
The key difference lies in the methods used to create those curls and waves. According to Kai, Japanese perms use a special machine to heat the perm solution, creating looser, more natural curls or waves. And because it uses high heat and chemicals, this style is also better suited if you’ve got straight, thick and coarse hair.
In addition, Kim shares that Japanese perms have a more layered finish, so stylists will often layer the hair to create more movement.
Korean perms, on the other hand, use a milder solution and no heat – suited for those with thin to medium textured tresses as it results in tighter, more defined curls/waves.
Korean perms are less layered and the curls are usually more defined at the bottom, adds Kim. As such, these perms usually deliver more volume and texture, and offer a more glamorous look.
The good news is that hairstylists in Singapore have adjusted their techniques to suit the local climate and lifestyle.
Kim explains, “Given Singapore’s humidity, hair tends to become weighed down. Japanese stylists have modified their approach by incorporating fewer layers to prevent frizz caused by the humid weather. And at Suchehwa, the Korean stylists have adapted their Korean methods by adding subtle layers to prevent the hair from appearing heavy and lifeless in the local climate.”
5 Dos and Don’ts Of Curl Maintenance
DO ask for tighter curls instead of loose curls to help the curls last longer. “The curls you get when you first leave the salon will loosen in the first two weeks. If you go for very loose curls right at the beginning, the curls might straighten out within the first month,” says Chew.
DON’T shampoo your hair for the first 48 hours after getting your perm. “This can cause the curls to loosen or fall out,” says Kai. If you must wash your hair, simply rinse it with water and use a deep conditioner instead.
DO replace your conditioner with a strengthening mask to boost hair elasticity. “With greater elasticity, your curls will be more well-sculpted and last longer too,” says Chew.
DO brush your new curls only when it’s dry. Kai recommends using a wide-tooth comb to gently detangle your freshly washed curls after showering.
DO use a curl defining cream to help hold the curls throughout the day. This is especially useful as curls tend to loosen easily in Singapore’s humid weather, says Kim.