These Asian sunscreens really don’t leave a white cast on brown girls

If there is one thing that beauty editors, dermatologists and beauty industry insiders agree on it’s that wearing sunscreen every day is one of the best things you can do for your skin. Along with the right moisturisers for my skin type and retinol, wearing sunscreen regularly has been instrumental in keeping my skin healthy, even toned and plump with relatively few lines and wrinkles. But not all sunscreens are created equal. Some people struggle to find a texture that’s pleasing and easy to use, others struggle to find sunscreens that won’t leave a white cast. As a brown girl, it took a few misses before I found a bunch of Asian sunscreens that didn’t leave a white cast on my skin. But first, let’s look at why it’s important to wear sunscreen.

Why it’s important to wear sunscreen every day

Whether you’re looking to fight lines, wrinkles and sagging skin or prevent dark spots and hyperpigmentation sunscreen is the answer. The Australasian College of Dermatologists describes UV radiation as energy produced by the sun. It is divided into three types, Ultraviolet A (UVA), Ultraviolet B (UVB), and Ultraviolet C (UVC).

UVA rays have the longest wavelength and are able to penetrate into the deeper layers of skin causing breakdown of collagen and elastin, which results in premature ageing. These rays can also pass through window glass so it’s essential to wear sunscreen even if you’re indoors and sitting near a window or driving in your car.  

UVB rays have a shorter wavelength and don’t pass through window glass, but they have the largest effect on the skin causing sunburn (think B for burn), redness and in severe cases, skin cancer.

UVC has the shortest wavelength and is mostly absorbed by the ozone layer.

UVA and UVB rays also trigger hyperpigmentation by damaging melanocytes, which results in overproduction of melanin, the substance that gives our skin colour. People like me with darker skin are more susceptible to hyperpigmentation. Since the suns rays also penetrate clouds, it’s important to use sunscreen even on cloudy and dull days, not just bright, sunny days. And because sun damage adds up —think that daily lunch run — it’s essential to wear sunscreen every day, not just on days you plan to be outdoors for an extended period of time.

Also, if you’re using skincare that has ingredients like retinol or alpha hydroxy acid that increase photosensitivity it’s especially important to use sunscreen every day and protect your skin from any sun damage. Most importantly, sunscreen also helps reduce your chances of getting skin cancer.

What to look for in a sunscreen

While most dermatologists recommend using a sunscreen with SPF 15 or 30, living in Singapore where the UV index is always high, I chose to wear SPF 50. You’re required to wear half a teaspoon for the face and neck and 30ml, or the amount in a shot glass, for the rest of your body to get the protection specified on the label. But most of us never end up using the exact recommended amount, so SPF 50 helps cover all the bases.

You also want to look for a sunscreen labelled “broad spectrum”, which means the sunscreen protects you from both UVA and UVB damage. Sun Protection Factor or SPF protects you from UVB rays, and the number indicates how much longer it would take for you to get sunburnt. For example, SPF 50 means you could stay out 50 minutes longer than it would usually take for you to get sunburnt.  

In Asian countries, sunscreens carry a PA+ rating for UVA protection. It stands for Protection Grade of UVA followed by plus signs. More plus signs equal higher protection against UVA rays.   

Sunscreens are also broadly classified into mineral or physical and chemical. Chemical sunscreens absorb the UV rays to protect the skin from sun damage while mineral sunscreens absorb as well as reflect light to protect the skin. Generally speaking, mineral sunscreens usually leave a white cast and while there are modern, elegant mineral sunscreen formulations on the market now, some of the filters in mineral sunscreens don’t agree with my skin leaving it unbalanced and making it dryer than it usually is.

Though chemical sunscreens don’t leave a white cast, things can get tricky when it comes to sunscreens that have a “tone up” formula. Along with providing sun protection, these sunscreens essentially work to even out and brighten the skin tone, sometimes eliminating the need for a foundation. While these work perfectly well on my paler skinned friends, they can look white and ashy on medium skin like mine, which is why I generally steer clear of them opting instead for chemical Asian sunscreens like the ones below. These are great for daily wear, under makeup and don’t leave a white cast on my brown skin.

Non-Tinted Sunscreen SPF50+ PA+++, $65, derma-Rx from derma-Rx

1/8

This one has a creamy texture but it doesn’t feel heavy or sticky and won’t make you look greasy. It doesn’t take long to work in and wears well under makeup. Along with protection from UVA and UVB rays it also shields skin against IR, Blue/HEV light and environmental pollutants like heavy metals and PM2.5 to keep your skin healthy and calm.

Natural Perfection Pro Shield Sun Perfector SPF50+ PA++++, $37.90, AHC from Watsons

2/8

Is it a serum? Is it sunscreen? It’s a sunscreen that feels like a serum and along with UV filters, it also has a range of skin nourishing ingredients that help fight free radicals, boost skin barrier health and keep skin hydrated to delay the signs of skin ageing. It doesn’t feel heavy at all and will leave your skin with a minimal glow. Oily and combination skin types would enjoy this too.

Sun Project Water Sun Cream SPF50+ PA+++, $32, Thank You Farmer from Guardian

3/8

This has the texture of a lightweight cream and keeps my dry skin hydrated on warm and humid days. It’s easy to work in and has a bunch of botanical extracts to keep skin nourished and healthy. If you have oily or combination skin you might be able to skip your moisturiser and just use this.

Quick Sunstick Protection Bar SPF50 PA++++, $41, Abib from Shopee

4/8

The UV index in Singapore is always high, which means it’s essential to reapply your sunscreen every two hours especially if you’re out and about. This sun stick is lovely with its curved shape that allows you to hug the natural contours of your face to get the sunscreen right into nooks and crevices. It can be a bit rich in a humid climate, but I enjoy the dewiness it gives my skin. I only use sunsticks to top up my sunscreen, never as my primary sunscreen.

Sekkisei Skincare UV Gel SPF50+ PA++++, $32, KOSE from Shopee

5/8

Singapore’s weather can often make sunscreens feel heavy and suffocating—not this one. It has a delightful cream-gel texture that is easily and quickly absorbed to protect skin from sun damage as well as pollen, pollution, dust and dirt. It keeps skin hydrated through the day with a slightly dewy finish.

Bio Water Sensitive pH Sunscreen SPF50 PA++, $28.15, Bio-Essence from Bio-Essence

6/8

This one checks all the boxes for the ideal sunscreen in Singapore. It’s lightweight watery formula is easily absorbed, doesn’t feel sticky or tacky, keeps skin hydrated, has a minimal sheen, wears well under makeup, and does a great job of keeping skin protected from UV rays. What more could you ask for?

Suncut Q10 EX Gel SPF50 PA++++, $31, DHC

7/8

I have recommended this sunscreen to anybody who has told me they don’t want anything heavy or greasy. The cream-gel texture is ideal for hot and humid weather. It is absorbed quickly and feels weightless without leaving too much of a sheen on the skin. Grab it if you can find it in stores (Guardian and Watsons is where I used to buy it from), it looks like it’s being phased out or reformulated.

UV Watery Essence SPF50 PA++++, $20.10, Biore from Guardian

8/8

If your goal is for your skin to be protected, moisturised and glowy every day, then this is the sunscreen for you. Glycerin, hyaluronic acid, vitamin E and royal jelly extract keep skin nourished and comfortable as this sunscreen glides on and sinks in almost immediately leaving you with a subtle dewy finish.