Are LED facial devices worth the investment? Here's our verdict...

In recent years, facial light therapy has evolved from something that was only professionally done at a beauty salon or aesthetic clinic, to an easy and convenient DIY treatment which you can do at home. Light-emitting diode (LED) masks might look like something out of a sci-fi film but they have increased in popularity, thanks to celeb fans like Victoria Beckham and Chrissy Tiegan.

The popularity of these devices can be attributed to the fact that they're easy to use, and provide pain-free procedures without the need for invasive procedures nor downtime. Purported benefits include improving blood circulation, reducing blemishes as well as minimising the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Dr Harvey Ho, founder of Skinscape Clinic, explains that LED light therapy works by using light in the visible spectrum and beyond. “Common colours (or wavelengths) include blue (400 and 470 nm), red (630 to 700 nm), yellow (560 to 620 nm) and infra-red (700 to 1200 nm). The different wavelengths penetrate the skin to different depths, creating different therapeutic effects on our cells and metabolic process,” he says.

Therefore, the skin benefits of LED light therapy depends on the colour or wavelength of light emitted. For example, blue light can be beneficial for acne, red light stimulates collagen production, yellow light reduces redness and inflammation and infra-red light speeds up healing.

He emphasises that when used properly, LED light therapy is a safe and relatively risk-free treatment. The risks are more likely to stem from overuse or misuse of at-home devices without professional guidance or disregard of the manufacturer's instructions, rather than long-term use.

“Generally, LED masks should be used only for short periods of 10 to 20 minutes each time, several times a week; overuse can cause skin irritation, dryness and rashes,” he adds. “The heat from certain LED devices may also trigger skin conditions such as melasma (dark patches). Long term use of blue light for acne may also trigger melasma, and blue light shouldn’t be used before bedtime as it may affect sleep.”

However, Dr Ho has a word of caution for anyone who uses at-home LED masks: Always protect your eyes: “I make it a point to advise my patients to wear eye protection while undergoing any form of light treatment."

He notes that effective treatments involve very intense lights for about 20 minutes and this can cause retinal damage or peripheral vision impairment without proper eye protection. LED masks are not suitable for anyone with photosensitivity or eye-related disorders and for those with seizures or migraines triggered by bright light. It is also not recommended for patients on medication that causes sensitivity to light such as Accutane, or certain antipsychotic medications and antibiotics.

These at-home LED masks might be cheaper compared to in-clinic treatments but does this mean they will replace in-clinic solutions? Dr Ho doesn't think they will because at-home LED devices are a fraction of the efficacy of medical-grade devices that are used in professional settings.

“High intensity bulbs such as the optical lens array system in the Healite II system we use at our clinic allows for deeper light wave penetration and more efficacious treatments. Users have to be very consistent with home usage of the masks to achieve the same results from in-clinic treatments,” he elaborates.

Also, not all LED masks are made equal. The main concern is that the mask may not use the right light source to get the right wavelength and energy density to achieve the desired therapeutic results.

“Unfortunately, there are no established standards for such at-home masks, and marketing claims for these devices may be extrapolated from the known benefits of LED light therapy and are not specific to the device,” says Dr Ho. “That being said, I believe that a good at-home LED mask can complement in-clinic treatments, enhancing and prolonging the results.”

Here are four at-home LED masks to try.

PHOTOGRAPHY ATHIRAH ANNISA

ART DIRECTION & STYLING ADELINE ENG

HAIR & MAKEUP AUNG APICHAI

COORDINATION LETTY SEAH

The Light Salon Revive and Repeat LED Facial Set, approx $881

Credit: The Light Salon

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Everything you need to boost your skin is right here. Firstly, the Boost LED Mask may look like an android's visage but put it on for 10 minutes for some amazing anti-aging effects. It uses red 633nm and near-infrared 830nm wavelengths which will brighten and plump your skin as well as reduce fine lines and wrinkles. You'll see results in just four weeks. The kit also comes with an enzymatic cleanser, which should use before the mask as it removes all traces of make-up and exfoliates your skin in preparation for the LED treatment. The hydrating peptide serum can be used as a primer before the LED mask – just wait 30 seconds for it to be absorbed.



 

DrX SpectraLite™ Eyecare Max Pro, $320

Credit: Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare

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This hands-free light therapy device from Dr Dennis Gross has 96 red LED lights in four wavelengths to target the eye area. It stimulates the natural production of collagen, which helps reduce fine lines and wrinkles. Use for three minutes daily.

MZ Skin LightMAX MiniPro Eyeconic™ LED, $650

Credit: MZ Skin

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This device attaches to the skin with disposable, medical-grade hydrocolloid patches, which protects the area from external aggressors while keeping it hydrated. The patches are also infused with active ingredients such as vitamin B3, which improves discolouration and softens fine lines. Two clinically-proven wavelengths (red 630nm and near infrared 830nm) are used here, to stimulate collagen and reduce inflammation. Stick them on three to five times a week, for 10 minutes per session.

Cellreturn Premium LED Mask by Angela Caglia, approx $2,926

Credit: Angela Caglia Skincare

4/4

There are almost 700 multicoloured lights in this LED mask and they work together to stimulate collagen production as well as reduce uneven pigmentation and age spots. The powerful, patented LED technology generates the wavelengths that are most effective for the skin. For best results, use at least three times a week, for up to 20 minutes each time.