Brighten and revitalise ‘panda eyes’: What you need to know about collagen injectables

Did you know that dark eye circles or “panda eyes” aren’t just telltale signs that you need more sleep – they also point to collagen loss? 

Truth is, the delicate area around your eyes is particularly prone to losing collagen. “The skin around the eye is the thinnest part in the whole body, and it also ages faster biologically,” says Dr Ewen Chee, founder and medical director of The Chelsea Clinic. 

Making up 70 per cent of the skin, collagen is like the skin’s scaffolding, providing strength and structure to remain firm and supple. Collagen naturally decreases over time, typically starting from one’s late 20s, says Dr Chee. This leads to a loss of facial volume and elasticity, which show up as tear troughs or under-eye hollows, crow’s feet and dark circles (as dark blood vessels are more visible through thinner skin) that give that fatigued appearance. 

The process can be sped up by factors such as smoking or sipping one too many cocktails and, the biggest culprit of all, UV light, which directly breaks down collagen. As ageing is a dynamic process, the shrinking of bone and fat around the face also contributes to volume loss, Dr Chee adds. 

To restore volume, dermal fillers are often used, while lasers can help improve skin texture, he says. However, instead of fillers that may end up making the face look puffy or doughy, there’s a growing preference for aesthetic treatments that offer more natural-looking results. 

As Mr Lin Ming Yi, CEO of global biomedical company Sunmax Biotechnology, puts it: “In recent years, we’ve observed that those seeking beauty enhancements are pursuing natural post-procedure results that avoid stiffness or unnatural movements, with an emphasis on safety.”

Enter collagen injectables that help address collagen loss, subtly filling in under-eye hollows and softening dark shadows.

To get the lowdown on how such injectables work (spoiler alert: they're set to do more than just plump up the volume), we caught up with both Dr Chee and Mr Lin. So if you’re looking to add it to your aesthetic beauty regimen, here’s what you need to know.  

What collagen injectables are made of

The most commonly used fillers are made with hyaluronic acid, which help to plump lips or rehydrate dry skin, explains Dr Chee. However, collagen fillers are derived from a natural source that’s usually of animal origin, such as pigs and cows. 

“Collagen can also be processed to be pure and free from antigens that might cause reactions. We call these atelocollagen, which means the ends of the protein chain which can cause allergic reactions are removed,” he adds. 

The collagen injectable from Sunmax, for instance, comprises 99 per cent pure collagen sourced from porcine skin. Mr Lin explains that the collagen undergoes a purification process to make it compatible with the body’s own system – it’s almost identical to human collagen – which makes it less likely to lead to adverse reactions. 

How it helps plump and brighten the eye area

Collagen is produced by fibroblasts but the activity of fibroblasts decreases with age, says Dr Chee. He explains that one way to stimulate collagen production is through controlled micro-injuries delivered into the skin, which sparks a natural wound healing response that ramps up collagen production. 

“Collagen injectables not only add to existing collagen but also act as bio-stimulators, encouraging fibroblasts in the skin to produce more collagen,” Dr Chee says.

Upon injection, the collagen filler goes to work, actively forming new collagen fibres and reinforcing the skin’s structural integrity around the eyes where it tends to get thin and hollow. The collagen also breaks down into peptides and amino acids that help brighten dark circles and improve skin quality. 

What to expect with collagen filler treatments

As everyone’s skin is unique and ages differently, it’s important that collagen injection treatments are customised to the patient’s specific needs for natural-looking results, says Dr Chee.

“Starting from the top layer of the skin to the bone, we assess volume loss and concurrent ageing signs. Then we tailor the treatment plan to the individual – because the key is to keep it natural,” he says. 

The viscoelasticity of the collagen filler is a key factor, as it allows doctors to adjust the thickness or thinness of the collagen to the specific needs of the patient's skin. 

“For instance, if you have deeper tear troughs or hollow areas, the injection needs to go deep into the skin, so the filler should be thicker and more solid-like to provide ample support,” says Dr Chee. 

Mr Lin adds that a highly viscoelastic collagen injectable is also less prone to shifting or deforming with facial movements, post-injection. A lower injection force also allows doctors to be more precise when injecting the product in a patient’s skin. 

“By providing safe and effective medical aesthetic products, we want to empower women to radiate with confidence and brilliance from within, under the expert care of medical professionals,” says Mr Lin. 

A topical numbing gel is applied to minimise discomfort. The entire process takes about 30 minutes in total, with minimal to no downtime. Effects last for around eight to 12 months, depending on factors such as the patient’s own body and how much filler was injected. 

To achieve the desired effect, multiple sessions may be required, with six to nine months in-between, says Dr Chee. To maximise the treatment's longevity, he says to avoid aggressive massaging or applying heat to the treated areas and steer clear of energy-based aesthetic procedures on the face for at least two weeks post-treatment.

Always consult with a certified medical aesthetic physician before starting any collagen injectable treatments.