From The Straits Times    |

Nestled between the captain and Bhutan’s first female pilot, Ugyen Dema, I felt awed as the plane soared over the majestic Himalayas. The captain pointed out Mount Everest and other peaks grazing the skyline before guiding the plane to a tiny strip of runway at Paro Airport, dodging jagged mountains in a series of dips and turns. It was July 2012, and my first visit to the Land of the Thunder Dragon. Since then, I’ve gone back thrice more, and stayed a month each time.

Must-see Places
If you can only manage a short stay, visit these three places: The town of Paro; Thimphu, the capital; and Punakha, the former capital.

Paro
Home to Bhutan’s only international airport, this is where you’ll land and meet the guide assigned to you by your tour agent, as tourists can only visit Bhutan on all-inclusive packages with rates set by the government. Ask the guide to drive you around the picturesque town, where you’ll see men in gho (the traditional Bhutanese outfit) and women in kira (a cross between a sarong kebaya and a kimono).

The stunning Paro valley has lush willow trees, terraced fields and a panoramic view of the Himalayas. To learn more about the local culture and history, head to the National Museum, which has great views of the valley.

Stay at Uma Paro, a five-star resort opened by Singaporean hotelier Christina Ong. Hotel guests can enjoy a complimentary yoga session there, take archery lessons, or use the indoor heated pool.

For something more rustic, stay at Naksel Boutique Hotel & Spa and check out its hot-stone bath, a wooden tub of herb-filled water, heated by hot stones and manned by a butler. The hot stones take four hours to heat up, so book early.

No trip to Paro is complete without a hike to Taktshang Goemba (Tiger’s Nest). This ney, or holy site, is perched on a 900m-high cliff. A two-hour hike is the only way to get there, so set off early and have breakfast at the cafeteria halfway up. Then keep climbing, because the view at the top is magnificent.

Thimphu
This is the only capital city in the world without traffic lights. In the city centre, you’ll see people dressed in traditional outfits. Crimson-robed monks share the streets with K-pop inspired, T-shirt- clad youths and gho-wearing, betel nut-chewing folk. And there are dogs everywhere.

The city’s main thoroughfare, Norzin Lam, has all the creature comforts without the decadent excess. No Starbucks, Mcdonald’s or glitzy malls here, although you may get the latest fashion from Bangkok.

Get your caffeine fix at local coffee joints like Ambient Cafe, Art Cafe or Karma’s Coffee, which also have Wi-Fi access. Or eat an old- fashioned rum ball from the Swiss Bakery, which opened in 1970.

See the awe-inspiring, 50m- tall Standing Buddha outside Changlimithang Stadium and Archery Ground, or go to Buddha Point to see another huge Buddha statue seated on a mountain. Hike to Motithang Takin Preserve and try to catch a glimpse of Bhutan’s national animal, the Takin, best described as a cross between a rhino and an ant-eater.

Punakha
If Paro and Thimphu are feasts for the senses, Punakha is food for the soul. It has one of Bhutan’s most impressive buildings, the Punakha Dzong, resplendent with elaborately carved wood in gold, red and black.

Expectant mothers and women hoping to get pregnant should visit the fertility goddess at the Chimi Lhakhang temple in the Punakha valley.

Punakha is also great for a giggle – giant phalluses decorate the facades of homes. They’re inspired by Lama Kunley, one of Bhutan’s favourite saints, known for his “crazy wisdom” – he defied social convention with his daring sexual exploits. The locals believe that the bigger the phallus in front of their homes, the greater their ability to ward off evil.

Go Local
When in Bhutan, do as the locals do. Dress like them in a gho or kira. Wear comfortable sneakers as you’ll be doing a lot of walking, but keep those Louboutins handy, because the women really dress up to party!

Dress Up For Nights Out
On my first visit to Bhutan, I thought the women would be dressed conservatively, and turned up in “backpacker-chic” for a night out, including my Fitflops. Was I wrong when we got to Space 34, the hottest dance club in Thimphu! It attracts a hip crowd indeed. The women were decked to the nines in designer garb.

Numerous pubs and karaoke joints have sprung up in Thimphu. Sing at Tiger’s Pub, or head to Kala Pingka Drayang to be entertained by performers dancing to traditional music or romantic ballads.

Try The Food
The Bhutanese love their chilli. The national dish, emadatse (chilli with cheese) is everywhere.

In Thimphu, check out Ama’s Restaurant. They do a wonderful porridge dish called bathup. Or go to Plum’s, an eatery run by a Singaporean, Sara, who has lived in Bhutan for 22 years. She whips up a mean ginger fried rice and hogay, a zesty cucumber salad with peppers, red chillies, spring onions and tomatoes. I like the pork tripe dish from The Zone, which also does a good yak burger.

For authentic Bhutanese fare, Zasa is the place to go. If you fancy a sit-down dinner with spectacular views of the city, visit Jambayang Resort, high above Wang Chhu river on the east bank.

Tiger beer is popular in Bhutan, but do try local beer as well as arra, a rice wine. Other local drinks include masala tea, which I like, and suja, a salty tea made with butter that is popular in winter.

Go Trekking
In June 2012, the King of Bhutan declared Tuesdays a pedestrian day. No cars are allowed on the streets from 8am to 6pm. Tuesday is also “dry day” – no alcohol is sold anywhere. So schedule Tuesday as a day for hiking. Ask the local guides about the best trails. A good one to try is Druk Heritage Tours (www.drukheritagetours.com).

Make Friends
The Bhutanese are the warmest, kindest and most hospitable people I have ever met. The average Bhutanese is compassionate, open and keen to strike up a conversation. Their energy and candour are infectious. If you’re invited to a Bhutanese home, go with a little gift and be prepared to be enthralled and mesmerised by the people of the happiest place on earth.

Learn The Culture
City dwellers in Bhutan speak fluent English, and the street and shop signs are in English, so getting around is no problem. In fact, it’s easier to get around in the city centres of Paro and Thimphu than Bangkok, as everyone has a basic, if not impressive, grasp of the English language.

Open-minded Locals
The predominantly Buddhist Bhutanese do not impose their beliefs on others. They have a very open attitude to marriage. Most of them marry early, but they accept live-in relationships, with many young couples marrying when the girl gets pregnant. Divorce carries no stigma, and neither do summer flings nor sunset romances.

Royal Reverence
The Bhutanese revere their king, so do not make negative remarks about the royal family. They love the reigning Jigme Wangchuck, who is son of the Fourth King, Jigme Singye Wangchuck, whose reign ushered in democracy and openness for Bhutan.

Courtesy
The Bhutanese are fond of name-dropping, but they don’t do it out of conceit. Instead, it’s about genuine familiarity, because members of the royal family live among the people – you could bump into the Fourth King out cycling, or the Queen Mother at a temple.

They also tend to refer to senior members of organisations as “Chairman” or “CEO” with respectful casualness, not as a demonstration of status.

This article was originally published in Simply Her February 2013.