Could this be the last Uniqlo +J Collection?
Gear up for your next holiday with these ultra chic options
By Keng Yang Shuen, Shazrina Shamsudin -
Fans of Uniqlo and Jil Sander will know that the relationship between the two goes all the way back to 2009, when the German designer first collaborated with Uniqlo to birth the +J range, effectively marking Uniqlo’s first foray into high fashion.
This collaboration, much loved for its modernist and elevated take on wardrobe staples, went on for two years, before being placed on hiatus in 2011.
Credit: Uniqlo
The series was revived last year to much fanfare, with Uniqlo calling it a Chapter 2 in the +J line. With the upcoming Fall/Winter’21 collection however, Uniqlo says Chapter 2 is unfortunately concluded – for now.
Credit: Uniqlo
Set to launch November 26 (with selected items available on 3 December) at the brand’s Orchard Central Flagship, ION Orchard and online, the final +J collection is an attractive one. Much focus has been placed on tactility and fabric materiality – think cashmere, extra fine merino, tactile leather and habutai silk (a traditional Japanese silk).
Ms.Sander continues her discreet experimentations of silhouettes and details, seen best on pieces such as an asymmetric cashmere long coat, or a men’s colour-blocked parka. There’s even a rare bag – a simple leather shoulder number that Old Celine-types will lap up.
Credit: Uniqlo
“This winter’s collection concentrates on distinctive silhouettes, sensual textures and luxurious tailoring which respond to our new sense of comfort: sophistication for everyone,” explains Ms. Sander.
“We return to social life, but we want to feel protected. The collection explores new oversize silhouettes with a controlled fit and variations of substantial winter classics.”
Ahead, we interviewed Jil Sander and Tadashi Yanai to find out more about the last collaboration.
What has changed between the first chapter of +J (from 2009) and the second chapter (from 2020) and what has stayed the same?
Jill Sander (JS): First of all, UNIQLO grew almost tenfold and became a truly international
company with stores all over world. UNIQLO proved that it can shoulder the required output
and keep its high standard. In 2009 already, UNIQLO had the know-how, the techniques and
the logistics to establish +J successfully, a line which is based on the highest quality, fabric research and fine craftsmanship. When we reactivated +J, the collections grew accordingly.
It made me very happy to reach so many customers in all parts of the world and to achieve
the +J mission of providing a modern global uniform, offering value, smart understatement and
carefully forged contemporary silhouettes. The UNIQLO team became even more professional
over the years, from the beginning, it was extremely attentive and helpful in devising new ways
of doing things. I feel a strong affinity to the Japanese culture and work ethics, to the love of quality and precision, the readiness to respond to demanding ideas, the urge to innovate and the willingness to experiment and start from zero, if needed.
Tadashi Yanai (TY): As Ms. Sander pointed out, one major change has been UNIQLO’s business scale. In 2009 we had stores in eight markets and by 2020 had expanded to 25 markets. I also believe
that customer trust in the UNIQLO quality and service has changed for the better. The aspects
that have stayed the same are Ms. Sander’s passion for making clothes, commitment to quality,
and keen sense of the times. UNIQLO has also maintained a stance since the beginning of doing
everything possible to respond to customer feedback, and that has led to a focus on quality and
service. I believe that the reason we have been able to maintain such a long-standing collaboration
with Ms. Sander is due to the many points of overlap in our basic philosophies.
In the three seasons of the second chapter of the collaboration (20FW, 21SS, 21FW), what are the most memorable or favorite products?
JS: I don’t really have favourites, but I am especially fond of the range of great coats we
designed over the years, of their timeless modernity, their statement quality, and the democratic prices we were able to ask, due to UNIQLO market power.
TY: The modern updates made to down items left an impression on me. I was also struck by
the variation and details of knitwear from Ms. Sander, and I purchased several items for myself. I expect that I will be wearing them often for many years to come.
Tell us what you think about each other as both of you are revolutionaries of the times.
JS: No doubt, Mr. Yanai is a visionary, a self-made man of the finest order who never stopped
evolving, engaging in higher stakes and in studying and anticipating the needs and wishes of
his contemporaries. I was very lucky to meet him and to find a sparring partner for the
audacious concept of +J. As far as I can see, Mr. Yanai stayed the same faithful, conscientious
man since his beginnings as an entrepreneur. He looks back on a stupendous success story,
which must have been in his mind from early on, since he never wavered in his path.
TY: One of UNIQLO’s principles is “Simple Made Better.” Ms. Sander is a pioneer of that
philosophy. Simple and beautiful clothing is not possible without persistent commitment to
detail, and it was this attitude that made us confident of pursuing a collaboration with her. I
believe that Ms. Sander is a genius with a rare aesthetic sense and passion, and at the same
time an unrivalled person able to continue creating timeless and ultimate styles for years to
come.
JS: Nature became much more important. In the country-side, you could move quite freely, and
the beauty of our garden gave us back optimism. It was good to care for plants and take long
walks in the woods and meadows. For almost two years, we were unable to travel to Tokyo. The
collections were conceived entirely on a digital basis. But as it turned out, virtuality and seclusion didn’t present greater problems and things worked out fine. This is largely a fruit of our ongoing UNIQLO collaboration and the familiarity of our teams. We knew each other well and had trust in each other. As to my ideas during the pandemic, I was confident that we would master it eventually. Intense work on the +J collections kept me focused, and I had ample time to reflect on the mental and social changes, the pandemic brought with it. We became more humble and grateful for the civilization we are graced with, and for our collected know-how which is finding its way out of that terrible challenge.
TY: The spread of coronavirus reminded me of just how deeply connected the world is. Nearly
every company in the world faced the question of whether they could turn this crisis into an
opportunity. The superficial is no longer acceptable, and the authentic is in even greater demand.
What have you gained from each other through this 12-year relationship, and what do you hope to apply in the future?
JS: My +J project was to bring the quality and sophistication of my high fashion experience to a large audience and to offer attractive, modern uniforms to a widely connected, discerning urbane customer. The ambitious goal was to approach the peoples of today’s world, assist them through clothes in their self-assurance and in their readiness to engage in common goals. It was very rewarding and almost stupefying to me how UNIQLO managed to produce our very demanding
collections on a global scale without a blink of the eye.
TY: I think of +J as taking Ms. Sander’s vision and expertise in high fashion and democratizing it through our commitment to quality and manufacturing capabilities. Being able to present the
essential qualities of Ms. Sander to all types of customers around the world provided a great deal of confidence to UNIQLO. We will never forget the dedication Ms. Sander has brought to making apparel and plan to use it to nourish further growth.
JS: I will remain very curious of Mr. Yanai’s ideas. And I am confident, that he will develop
his world-embracing vision further. I want to thank him for his trust and our great
collaboration, and I wish him good luck and all the best for his future endeavours. Now, we
close a chapter, and I wonder what the future will look like.
TY: I will be extremely interested to see where Ms. Sander’s boundless passion and creativity
takes her next. Ms. Sander’s creations are timeless, but I cannot help but look forward to the
new things she will create. I also hope we are able to once again excite the world together,
someday.
This article was first published in Female.