Global Mat Soul Kitchen: The private IG account selling SG's best nasi lemak
Meet Ahmad Zahid Isnin, the force behind Global Mat Soul Kitchen, a passion project that raises crowds in a non-descript HDB void deck
By Chelsia Tan -
Tucked away in various parts of Singapore are four fiercely independent establishments that have gained a loyal following despite the challenges of operating a business in a small city. What keeps them going? In this four-part series, we have a chat with the owners to find out.
In recent years, a handful of people have been spotted lurking around the void deck of a HDB block in the sleepy estate of Aljunied Crescent. It’s a regular occurrence – some loitering at a distance, while others “chope” their seats at the plastic benches. This motley crew of working professionals, hip creatives and Gen Zs are here for Global Mat Soul Kitchen, a “fiscally responsible passion project” started by 40-something Ahmad Zahid Isnin in 2014.
The former bartender and chef de partie – who doesn’t drink, is an ardent black metal fan, and a member of a lion dance troupe – operates by a “drop” system. He announces nasi briyani or nasi lemak drops a few times a week on his closed Instagram account, which has about 14.6K followers. Once confirmed, they will be directed to a neighbourhood in Aljunied, where he lives, for collection. New customers will have to send him a friend request, and they will be placed on a waiting list.
Zahid’s nasi briyani may be the dish that’s been raved about in local media, but his nasi lemak, a relatively new addition to the menu, is a stunner. Flavourful chicken rendang, fragrant coconut rice topped with telur goyang (sous vide egg), and sambal buah keluak for an extra oomph.
His modus operandi is not savvy guerilla marketing at play here; Zahid’s rendition, which he says is a decadent take on Malay-Peranakan influences, is the real deal. He shares that the process of cooking the dish is a tedious slow-burner.
One of the most popular items on the menu is the chicken rendang nasi lemak
Global Mat Soul Kitchen customers pick up their orders at a HDB void deck in Aljunied
“It’s a solo effort with different components and many moving parts. You have to orchestrate everything so that it comes together without any issues. It’s trickier than it seems, like orchestrating the Muppet Show or rocketry,” he quips.
“The preparation of the rendang sauce must be done early on, even as early as days before. Also, boiling eggs may seem like a simple task, but ensuring that it’s cooked at the right temperature, cracking them open and gently nudging the yolk and egg white out with a spoon – it’s not an easy process. Achieving the right temperature is almost like watching paint dry.”
Zahid sells his nasi lemak at $12 per packet, which may seem exorbitant compared to hawker prices. But factoring the long preparation time and limited quantities that he’s able to produce, it’s hardly a money-making venture. So why do it?
“I feel the need to offer options and have a say. Mass marketisation has turned food into a fast trend, with some establishments even putting lobster into nasi lemak. People forget that nasi lemak should be about rice and sambal. While fine dining is fine, the essence should always be about rice and sambal. That’s something I believe in and want to continue offering,” he states without hesitation.
Zahid’s no bull-sh** approach is telling of one who is true to his ethos. Perhaps this is why his food continues to inspire lurkers in nondescript void decks, or snaking queues when he launches a pop-up in town on the extremely rare occasion.
“The perception that having thousands of social media followers counts for success is wrong. I prefer having 100 followers who consistently buy my products. It's not about likes; it's about actual purchases. People misunderstand the whole social media thing. This project isn't all fun and games; it's hard work, a lot of sweat,” he says.
Ahmad Zahid Isnin, the force behind Global Mat Soul Kitchen
For updates, follow Global Mat Soul Kitchen (@globalmatsoulkitchen) on Instagram.
Photography Athirah Annissa
Art Direction Adeline Eng