We decided to travel to Northern Cyprus with our six-month-old baby. Here's how it went

Taking the road less travelled

Credit: Writer Cam Khalid at Buyuk Han in Nicosia, an ancient caravanserai (roadside inn) that was built by the Ottomans in 1572. Photo credit: Cam Khalid

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For our first two-week adventure as a trio, we decided to start with Turkiye in late March. With the winter to spring transition, it’s the perfect season to be out and about with a baby. However, due to the devastating earthquake that happened earlier this year, we were advised to stick to family-friendly destinations such as Cappadocia and Istanbul.

With a strong desire to step off the beaten path, we added the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (Northern Cyprus for short) to our itinerary. It has connecting flights from Istanbul – the only way you can get there without crossing over from the Republic of Cyprus. Cyprus is the third largest island in the Mediterranean, after the Italian islands of Sicily and Sardinia, spanning 9,251 sq km.

It’s split into four segments: Northern Cyprus, which is diplomatically recognised by Turkiye only; the internationally recognised Republic of Cyprus (most of the island's South), which is also part of the EU; the UN-controlled Green Line, which is a buffer zone that separates the two; and Akrotiri and Dhekelia, which remain under British sovereignty for military purposes.

Cyprus has always been a place of wonder to me – it’s the stunning birthplace of ancient Greek goddess Aphrodite; home to the Mosque of Umm Haram, one of the holiest sites in the Muslim world; and a World Heritage Site with 4th-century Roman ruins. However, these are all located in the Republic of Cyprus. You rarely hear anything about Northern Cyprus, which piqued my curiosity even more.

Getting around Turkiye and Northern Cyprus

Credit: Kyrenia Castle in Northern Cyprus is believed to have been originally built by the Byzantines in the 7th century. Photo credit: Cam Khalid

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With a dearth of family guides on Northern Cyprus, I had to meticulously research and plan every aspect of our adventure. I sought advice from friends who had been there, scoured the Internet for family-friendly activities, booked a comfortable Airbnb, and packed our bags with all the baby essentials, including a car seat that easily attached to our pram frame.

This came in handy for all the taxi rides in Turkiye and the car we rented in Northern Cyprus. Renting a car is the easiest way to get around the island as there aren’t any ride-hailing apps or reliable public transport. Taxis are stationed at their bays and unlikely to stop by the roadside.

We stayed in Kyrenia, a city on the northern coast of Cyprus that overlooks the enchanting Mediterranean Sea. It’s known for its historic horseshoe-shaped harbour and 16th-century castle, which houses the wreck of a 4th-century BC Greek merchant ship. Pro tip: If you’re staying far from the city centre like we did, be sure to make your way back to your accommodation before sunset as there is a lack of proper sign posts and street lights. However, I would recommend familiarising yourself with the roads first before slotting an hour or two in the evening to stargaze.

We managed to observe the stars and other celestial bodies in a village in Larnaca during a barbecue with the locals. In between bites of seftali (sausage made from caul fat) and kofte (meatballs), they also told us that the Milky Way could be seen from Karpasa on spring and summer nights.

Crossing borders to Nicosia

Credit: Stalls selling handmade items at the Buyuk Han. Photo credit: Cam Khalid

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One of the highlights of our trip is Nicosia, the world’s last divided capital city. The divide is due to the complex history and ongoing political conflict between the Greek Cypriot and Turkish Cypriot communities. There are coloured lines on the ground to help guide you through the city. Blue line takes you around the north side (Turkish), red for the south side (Greek), and green for the UN buffer zone, which is patrolled by UN peacekeepers.

On the north side, local artisans greeted us with warm smiles and handmade creations as we strolled through the storied Kumarcilar Han and Buyuk Han. It was sensory galore for my little one. She also had her first pita bread, while we refuelled with street food such as pide (flatbread with various toppings) and lahmacun (flatbread topped with minced meat) at the traditional bakery Bereket Firini. The food here is all baked in a traditional stone oven.

“[The stone oven] has been in the family business for decades before the [civil] war,” the owner told us, before breaking into dance as a trackless train blasting traditional Turkish music passed by.

After, we headed to one of the eight checkpoints where we showed our passports to cross over to the Greek side. The first order of business was getting a cold sweet treat to beat the heat, so we walked into the nearest gelateria we saw: Regis Ice Cream. It’s worth noting that the currency here is euro, while in the north, it’s Turkish lira.

Wandering into unwelcomed territory

Credit: Elderly men playing backgammon on the streets. Photo credit: Cam Khalid

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Across the border, Ledra Street is a bustling place filled with chic shops, busy bars and restaurants – a contrast to its sleepy northern counterpart. But the one thing they both have in common: the peace-themed street art that deck the walls.

Things took a different turn beyond Ledra Street. We saw oil-barrel barricades, abandoned buildings, barbed wires, and warning signs. The eerily quiet streets were patrolled by uniformed men with guns. The environment made me feel uncomfortable, but it was also thought-provoking.

Thinking about the clash, my mind went into mama bear mode, where I became really protective of my little one. I  guess this is what they call “maternal instinct”. We decided to turn around when we realised that we’d entered uncharted territory by accident and stood out like a sore thumb. There were some unfriendly stares from the locals, which was a sure sign for us to head back to the north.

Never a dull moment

Credit: View from Saint Hilarion castle in Northern Cyprus. Photo credit: Getty Images

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Northern Cyprus amounts to around a third of the island of Cyprus, four times bigger than Singapore – but its population is much smaller, with an estimated 382,000. It also feels like it’s still stuck in the past and cut off from the rest of the world – a striking contrast to the south side, which thrives with busy holiday resorts and familiar international chains such as Starbucks and Ben & Jerry’s.

However, with an abundance of natural beauty, magnificent mountain terrain and rich history to explore, there’s plenty to do in Northern Cyprus. It’s home to three mighty Crusader castles: Buffavento, Kantara, and Saint Hilarion, which has become the backdrop of video games such as Assassin’s Creed: Bloodlines. We managed to visit the last one, which is perched on the Kyrenia mountain range.

Although the ascent is a challenging one, especially with a baby strapped onto me, the panoramic views of the sprawling countryside is rewarding. The view while driving up the mountain is also postcard-worthy, and there are spots for you to stop your car and take some photos.

Nurturing a sense of adventure

Credit: Cam with her family at Cappadocia, Turkiye. Photo credit: Cam Khalid

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When we returned, friends and family were quick to ask: “How was she on the plane?” Short answer: “She wasn’t too bad.” We had a whole itinerary planned in Northern Cyprus for five days, but when you’re with a six-month-old baby, it can resemble an exploration of chaos theory – nothing ever goes as planned.

Some of the attractions are about an hour away from each other, so I would recommend delegating a full day to one area. For example, we did a whole day’s worth of exploration in Kyrenia, then another in Nicosia. And if you want to cover all the best bits with your bub, you’d want to extend the trip to just over a week.

Throughout our trip, there were also many kind strangers who came to our rescue – from entertaining our baby while we go through security to calming her down while we eat. Travelling with kids can test parenting skills, and demand patience and adaptability. Yet, it’s a humbling challenge that creates unforgettable memories and fosters growth. Even if they are too young to recall memories of a holiday, each experience will feed on that sense of adventure for the next.