Is it worth taking an $8,525 luxury train to explore Malaysia?

A sleek, luxurious minivan rolls over to my pick-up point, and the driver proceeds to pack our bags into the boot compartment. “Welcome to your journey with the Eastern & Orient Express, and please help yourself to the refreshments we have prepared for you,” the driver said as we began our journey towards Woodlands Station, Singapore.

Embarking on the four days, three nights “Wild Malaysia” round-trip from Singapore, my travel companion – a seasoned documentary producer – and I approach this highly anticipated journey on the Eastern & Oriental Express with a sense of intrigued anticipation. Our pre-trip discussions were naturally punctuated by practical considerations: the size and comfort of our cabin and its amenities were key questions that underscored our expectations for this unique mode of travel.

Upon arrival at Woodlands Station, the transition is impeccably orchestrated: attentive train staff greet us, clearly direct us through Immigration — one for Singapore, and the other for Malaysia — and porters efficiently tag and convey our luggage directly to our awaiting cabin.

The Eastern & Oriental Express first launched in September 1993 and it made history as the first train to transport passengers seamlessly from Singapore to Bangkok. The carriages were originally built in Japan in 1971 for New Zealand’s Silver Star sleeper train, which operated between Auckland and Wellington. Twenty years later, they were shipped to Singapore and refurbished to what it is today.

Aboard the Eastern & Oriental Express

Life on board is made comfortable with a configuration of two Presidential Suites, 20 State Cabins and 10 Pullman Cabins. We check into our cosy and airy State Cabin (which is more spacious than the Pullman) that consists of two plush seatings that convert into two single beds at floor level at night. We meet with our warm and friendly steward, Sebastian, who is looking after us and other guests, who answers our every curious question with intent.

As the train begins its journey at 3pm, we slowly make our way towards the observation deck for drinks and getting to know the other guests who were travelling with us. By the golden hour’s gentle fade, guests head to the dining cars in their formal wear and dresses sip wine and champagne at the piano bar. 

Nighttime is when the experience comes to life: the cabins’ interiors lit with grandeur, set against beautiful panelled inner walls that are decorated in elm, cherry, teak and rosewoods with diamond-shaped marquetry hand-cut by local craftsmen. 

Depending on your seating cards, guests can move between Adisorn and Malaya, two distinctive restaurant dining cars that reflect Asia in their design — the former is decked in jungle-green upholstery and the latter is in lush red Batik-inspired design. The culinary heart of this journey beats with the innovative vision of Taiwanese star chef André Chiang, who has masterfully crafted menus that artfully fuse classic French technique with the vibrant tapestry of Southeast Asian flavours. 

The resulting gastronomic experiences – a decadent six-course, wine-paired dinner and an equally impressive three-course lunch – showcase dishes of breathtaking artistry and exquisite taste. From the aromatic Laksa bouillabaisse to the rich Penang duck curry, the delicate miso-baked cod, and the deeply satisfying slow-braised beef cheek in a complex nine-pepper jus, each plate is a testament to culinary excellence. One can only marvel at the precision and artistry achieved by the kitchen staff within the confines of their undoubtedly challenging galley.

Life is about the journey and destination

As we rise to our second day of our journey, that’s when the adventure begins. The meticulously curated “Wild Malaysia” route charts a course northwards for approximately 200 kilometers to the pivotal railway junction at Gemas, Negeri Sembilan. Here, we’ll embark onto Malaysia’s less-traveled East Coast Line, our destination the verdant expanse of Taman Negara National Park, nestled within the peninsula’s dramatic mountainous heartland. Following this immersive foray into

The first stop leads us into Taman Negara (National Park) in Pahang, the oldest known primary rainforest in the world, which is said to be 130 million years old. Guests then group into their various excursions — I go with a local guide and 8 other guests to discover two caves, Gua Sisik Naga (Dragon’s Scales Cave) and Gua Tahi Bintang (Shooting Star Cave) and learn about the caves’ formations, while my travel partner goes on a walking tour to learn about flowering plants and edibles while spotting gibbons producing hoo calls in the trees.

The next morning, after breakfast in the cabin at 7am, the Eastern & Orient Express pulls into Butterworth Station and an exclusive chartered ferry bound for George Town, the island of Penang, awaits us. Again, we split into different groups: one group heads up to Penang Hill in air-conditioned vehicles, another ventures on a scenic street tour in trishaws, while my travel partner and I opt for the art tour while riding pillion on Vespas.

As the heat beckons, we are more than happy to return to our cabins as we are southbound for Ipoh, the capital city of the state of Perak, famous for its colonial architecture as well as limestone caves. We stop for a short tour here before some free and easy time buying local snacks like tau sar piah (flaky biscuits filled with sweet or savoury fillings made from mung beans) and herbal tea sachets.

Dior Spa: Elevated wellness on rails

Returning to our cabin, I happily check into the Dior Spa, Belmond’s third spa on rails with the Eastern & Orient Express. Housed within one of the train’s sixteen sumptuously appointed Art Deco-inspired carriages, the spa is an oasis of refined elegance. The interior, a testament to timeless style, features the iconic cane work and Toile de Jouy print of the House of Dior. 

Ms. Badizza, the Guest Experience Officer aboard the train tells me that they’ve even been getting requests even from non-Eastern & Orient travellers but the service is only exclusive to guests travelling with the train. Ayu, the spa therapist from Bali with over 16 years of experience greets me and hands me a form to fill up. Amidst a warm exchange of pleasantries, blending the melodic cadence of Bahasa Malaysia and Indonesia, a genuine sense of camaraderie blossomed, as if we were long-acquainted neighbours.

The Dior Spa aboard the train offers an exclusive collection of signature treatments, each a journey into profound well-being. Guests can indulge in the D-Jungle treatment, a harmonious fusion of Asian traditions and rhythmic muscle massage for both face and body. For my choice of treatment, I pick the Constellation massage, expertly designed to melt away tension through a curated blend of techniques. For targeted relief, the D-Tissue massage employs deep, soothing movements to effectively ease discomfort.

For the discerning guest, the Kobi-Dior Facial presents an exquisite experience. Rooted in the revered Japanese Kobido tradition and enhanced with Asian techniques and the prestigious Dior Prestige skincare line, this treatment masterfully sculpts the face, unveiling a visibly radiant and youthful complexion.

Winding down: The return leg 

After my indulgent restoration treatment, I move to the observation deck to capture some picturesque shots of the jungles of Peninsular Malaysia, bathing in a breathtaking tapestry of fiery hues.

By now, we are chugging between 90 to 100km/h southbound for home, and we will see the Eastern & Oriental Express gracefully traverse the landscapes past Kuala Lumpur and Gemas before its final, elegant arrival in Singapore. With the unforgettable masterpiece forming in the sky above us, the nostalgic quote by Agatha Christie came to mind: “Trains are wonderful... To travel by train is to see nature and human beings, towns and churches and rivers, in fact, to see life.” It’s an invitation to mystery that I wholeheartedly succumb.