Milan may be thought of as a more ‘business like city’ in Italy as compared to, say, Rome. This rings true in a way; a lot of large businesses including fashion houses such as Prada have their HQ’s here, but that doesn’t make Milano stiff by any means. The city has culture, style, and cuisine in spades and a character all its own with different neighborhoods – from the Brera District with 15th-century frescoed Church of Santa Maria del Carmine to the upcoming Navigli hood along canals. Fashion stylist and sustainability editor Ellen Mirck, based in Milan for many years with her family, shares her best insider tips if you’re planning to visit the city soon.
To eat:
LùBar is a romantic and sophisticated restaurant, situated between Palestro and Porta Venezia, in the historic districts of Milan. ‘It centers its focus on Sicilian cuisine reinterpreted with a modern twist’, says Ellen. The central hall overlooks the gardens and inner courtyard of the Gallery Of Modern Art which you can easily visit afterwards.
Via Palestro, 16, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
Another hot tip: The Bar at Ralph Lauren, famous for a scrumptious weekend brunch and American cuisine with some of Ralph Lauren’s personal favorites. It is located on Via Della Spiga, one of the most famous luxury streets in Milan so you can easily do some shopping afterwards. Ellen: ‘It’s good to know that the dress code is somewhat formal here, so I usually opt for something polished and elegant.’
The Bar at Ralph Lauren, Via della Spiga, 5, 20121 Milano
For a sweet breakfast or pastry there’s Pasticceria Gelsomina which Ellen loves. ‘It has this vintage and retro feel with great attention to detail when it comes to interior, presentation and of course the food.’ They offer a wide selection of desserts. Ellen: ‘Personally I love the ones with berries and the mini cheesecake’.
Pasticceria Gelsomina, Via G. Fiamma, 2, Milano
Then there’s Marchesi 1824, one of the oldest and most renowned pastry shops in Milan. Ellen: ‘Synonymous with excellence for its pastry and chocolate offerings. Especially well-known for its Panettone, the quintessential Milanese dessert.’ The early twentieth century charm of the place is still present – including the beautiful original furnishings.
Marchesi 1824, Via Monte Napoleone, 9, Milano
‘Straf bar is situated outside, in an open-air lounge, where you get to enjoy a beautiful view of the Duomo’, says Ellen: ‘The industrial style creates a striking contrast with the historical architecture around. I would say the atmosphere is very easygoing, and the food and drinks are great.’
Via S. Raffaele, 3, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
Rita Cocktails was one of the first American bars in Milan to offer seasonal, fresh, ready-made drinks including thr city’s first truly gourmet aperitifs. The bar is located in a secluded corner on the Navigli, out of the hustle and bustle. Ellen: ‘I’d also recommend this place after dinner.’
Via Angelo Fumagalli, 1, 20143 Milano MI, Italy
“Ceresio7 has a beautiful terrace overlooking the Generali Towers. Wonderful for a poolside aperitivo with a bar cocktail and appetizers prepared in the restaurant. Compliments to the kindness of the staff.”
Via Ceresio, 7, 20154 Milano MI, Italy
Mozzarella Bar on the top floor of the Rinascente department store offers a lovely view on the Duomo. Ellen: ‘Like the name would suggest, I love to come here to enjoy the amazing fresh mozzarella. You won’t be disappointed.’
La Rinascente, Piazza Duomo Food Hall 7°, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
Giacomo Bistrot is a French-style bistro in the heart of Milan. Ellen: ‘Set in a classic, refined interior with a modern twist and international flavors. It’s the perfect place for a warm and intimate dinner. The large bookcase is beautiful and evokes this feeling of being at home.’
Via Pasquale Sottocorno, 6, 20129 Milano MI, Italy
Trattoria Arlati has been owned by the Arlati family since 1936. ‘Quite special’ says Ellen: ‘And you sense that heritage when you’re there. The City of Milan gave this trattoria the title Bottega Storica. For the last 50 years the original architecture and decorative elements are maintained.’
Via Alberto Nota, 47, 20126 Milano MI, Italy
La Latteria S Marco is named after the street where it’s located. Ellen: ‘It has a 1950s style, and the dishes change daily, because one of the key features is that they serve what the seasons and the market offers in the moment.’
Via S. Marco, 24, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
Solferino is a well-known Milanese restaurant since 1909, located in the characteristic Brera district. Ellen: ‘The founders decided to stay true to Milanese gastronomic traditions, which is something I love.’
Via Castelfidardo, 2, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
La Briciola is a refined and elegant place with a cozy atmosphere. The staff is known to be very kind and the cuisine consists of traditional Mediterranean dishes and wonderful wine. Ellen: ‘They serve excellent Milanese risotto with Iranian saffron. The toasted bread is also delicious.’
Via Marsala, 1, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
To shop:
Antonia, founded in 1999, is a boutique in Milan that boasts multiple luxury brands, including Jacquemus, The Attico and Maison Margiela. Ellen loves to come her for her styling gigs but also for her personal outfits.
Via Cusani, 5, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
Other than that, there’s the infamous 10 Corso Como which is a high-end shopping destination. The former garage at No. 10 Corso Como is now also hosting photography, art, and design exhibitions by emerging and established artists.
Corso Como, 10, 20154 Milano MI, Italy
Antonioli is a boutique in Milan, spanning 700 square meters, on the Naviglio Grande. Ellen: ‘The collections are a reflection of Claudio Antonioli's personal style. His philosophy is to pair research, modernity, and the avant-garde. I believe that for this reason he has always been able to offer the most on-point and off the moment selection of designers and brands on the fashion scene.’
Via Pasquale Paoli, 1, 20143 Milano MI, Italy
La DoubleJ is a Milan-based clothing and design brand founded in 2015 by J.J. Martin. The company has evolved from a magazine, focused on the latest fashion trends, to a vintage-inspired clothing and jewelry label. La DoubleJ now offers a complete lifestyle label with new women's fashion made from archival print fabrics. In addition to this the founder also offers rare vintage finds for the home, even debuting this beautiful collection at Salone del Mobile.
Via Sant'Andrea, 10/A, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
Don’t miss the DMAG outlet on Via Manzoni. This much-loved shopping experience houses nearly 3000 national and international brands on a beautiful Milanese location. Forbes even named them one of the “World's Best Outlet Stores”.
Via Manzoni 44, 20121 Milano
Madame Pauline Vintage was born from the desire to reinterpret the “dusty and old concept” of vintage. The idea was to come up with a boutique that recalls the elegant
living room of a mid-20th century Parisian apartment. I feel they succeeded. They offer a novel aesthetic with a juxtaposition of different styles and eras.’
Foro Buonaparte, 74, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
For design and culture:
Fondazione Prada is a cultural institution by the brilliant mind of Miuccia Prada and Patrizio Bertelli who founded it in 1993. The Fondazione offers an experimental
and multidisciplinary program that includes temporary exhibitions, film festivals, conferences and music and performance projects. The in-house cinema is dedicated to director Jean-Luc Godard. In 2015, American director Wes Anderson designed Bar Luce. Ellen: ‘It recalls pop culture and the aesthetics of Italy in the 1950s and 1960s, and makes you feel like you’re in a café in old Milano back in the day.’
L.go Isarco, 2, 20139 Milano MI, Italy
Triennale Milan, inside the Palazzo dell'Arte, offers exhibitions focused on art, design, architecture and fashion, but there’s also theatre, performances, concerts, talks and meetings. An inspirational place, finds Ellen: ‘Every three years the Triennale Milan also organizes the International Exhibition: one of the most important events in the world dedicated to design and architecture.’ Not to mention, the Trienalle houses the Museum of Italian Design.
Viale Emilio Alemagna, 6, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
Rossana Orlandi’s gallery in Milan favored by design afficionado’s who flock to this place from all five continents. At her Ro Gallery the work of established and emerging designers and artists is on full display. Ellen: ‘This is where Rossana Orlandi turns contemporary design into collectible design, likening it to the rare selections made famous by international auctions in the field.’
Via Matteo Bandello, 14, 20123 Milano MI, Italy
PalermoUno was founded in 2018 by Sophie Wannenes who decided to transform her studio into a 150 square meter apartment and gallery displaying antique and contemporary pieces. When you visit every single piece of furniture can be purchased: from furniture to lighting to blocks of soap. Ellen: ‘The place is divided into rooms like you would see in a house. There’s a focus on more niche designers which I also love.’
Corso Garibaldi, 46, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
Ellen: ‘In Nilufar Gallery visitors will discover Nina Yashar's ability to merge styles, nationalities, generations, and bring together established artists and young avant-garde talents. The exhibitions always enrich me, showing me a different angle, and they’re entertaining at the same time.’
Via della Spiga, 32, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
To stay:
Principe di Savoia is situated in a historic neoclassical building. The hotel's central location allows walking distance to the new Porta Nuova district. ‘It's the details that make the difference’, finds Ellen: ‘The service here is flawless, and they serve excellent and very fresh food.’
Piazza della Repubblica, 17, 20124 Milano MI, Italy
Ellen: ‘The location of the Mandarin Oriental in Milan is great; a stone's throw from the city center and on a private street that allows peaceful sleep even in a very busy Milan.
The rooms, in signature Mandarin style, are minimal but beautiful. Enhanced by Feng Shui while boasting a contemporary Italian design with a sophisticated feel.’
Via Andegari, 9, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
Vico Milano is a charming little boutique hotel. Guests can enjoy a well-stocked library, a cozy lounge and a speakeasy bar. Ellen: ‘Again, the devil is in the detail, and I think they nailed that here at Vico Milano.’
Corso Genova, 11, 20123 Milano MI, Italy
Ellen: ‘VMaison is located in the heart of Brera and, if you ask me, an expression of modernity, design, and style. The interior is characterized by rare and valuable materials that create unusual combinations of surfaces and colors that remain harmonious. The entire structure is enclosed in a private garden, an enchanting oasis of tranquility in the heart of the city. A place where I love to withdraw from time to time.’
Via Tommaso da Cazzaniga, 2, 20121 Milano MI, Italy