Sexy rogues at Jean Paul Gaultier AW12 menswear showPARIS – Dreadlocks, tattoos, graffiti prints and fedoras set the tone at Jean Paul Gaultier for an autumn-winter look shot through with a roguish, bohemian streak on day two of the Paris menswear shows.

The French designer’s first, tone-setting look was a brick wall print suit under a camel overcoat, with rust leather gloves and combat boots, worn by a striking red-headed, moustachioed model.

Fedoras and trilby hats injected a broody, Spanish note, alternating with chunky woollen hats, worn by a manly cast with long dark locks, lots of stubble and beards – the exception being the androgynous blonde model Andrej Pejic.

Above the catwalk, in the high-ceiling ballroom of Gaultier’s Paris atelier, models climbed a scaffold and peeled off their clothes, displaying ornate tattoos in a rebellious show of virility.

“They are not little kids,” smiled Gaultier backstage, when asked about his cast of models – at odds with the frail, pink-cheeked types favoured by many of his contemporaries.

The designer described the collection as “a mix of the dandy universe and streetwear, because today’s dandys like graffiti.”

Graffiti-style black and white prints popped up on a pair of slimline trousers, under a tweedy black overcoat and trilby.

Tattoo-like prints also adorned a white roll-neck sweater worn with flowing black wide-leg pants, or a white T-shirt above a floor-length grey pleated kilt.

Ultra-light rainjackets were tucked into the waist of trousers, billowing to the floor like trains, like on one dread-locked model who wore a chunky khaki wool body-warmer and cords with a cape-like jacket in green satin.

Jean Paul Gaultier company gets new boss

MADRID – Frenchman Ralph Toledano, who ran designer label Chloe for more than a decade, was named new head of Jean Paul Gaultier, Spanish perfume and fashion group Puig announced.

Toledano will now take over the Puig fashion division beginning January 30, and will initially run Gaultier, which Puig took over last year, before taking over the Puig’s Nina Ricci label in a year’s time.

Puig is primarily a perfume business, which represented 83 per cent of sales in 2009 compared to five per cent for fashion.

Toledano left Chloe in 2010 during a period marked by the tenures of Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo as lead designers.