Resplendent Ceylon: The newest luxury resort in Sri Lanka

One can say that Sri Lanka has been put through the wringer, having faced an economic crisis and political upheaval. But the island nation has remained resilient and as the situation there stabilises, it is starting to open up again. And with summer at its peak, now is arguably the best time to visit or return for an unforgettable adventure. For the curious and discerning traveller, Resplendent Ceylon, the resort arm of tea company Dilmah, offers a remarkable circuit across the country with its three distinctive resorts that capture the beguiling charm of the island nation — Cape Weligama huddled on the south coast near Galle, Wild Coast Tented Lodge beach-side by Yala National Park, and Ceylon Tea Trails nestled in the tea highlands.

My journey with Resplendent Ceylon began with a smooth four-hour flight into Colombo via national carrier Sri Lankan Airlines, which offers convenient connections to its global route network of over 100 destinations in 58 countries. A 2.5-hour drive from Bandaranaike International Airport brought me to Cape Weligama, a sprawling 12-acre resort perched on a grassy headland overlooking the blue waters of the Indian Ocean. Designed by revered Thai architect Lek Bunnag and reminiscent of a traditional Sri Lankan village, terracotta-tiled dwellings (each named after a distinguished explorer, writer or poet) dot the resort’s colourful gardens and pools — the showstopper being the crescent-shaped infinity Moon Pool that curves round the cape’s summit, affording spectacular 270-degree coastal views.

Contemporary in style, drenched in sunny hues and imbued with a colonial feel, all villas and suites boast dining and in-room spa facilities and feature large terraces, spacious walk-in wardrobes, a steam room, and a large bathroom (almost as big as the bedroom itself) with twin vanities and a stone tub. Some also have private or semi-private pools for those who appreciate the seclusion and solitude, just like I did.

The hotel’s cliff-edge alfresco restaurant, Ocean Terrace, is the perfect spot to enjoy the stunning views as you tuck into the sumptuous, fresh catch of the day. For authentic local fare, go for the breakfast hoppers or pittu with hearty dahl, aromatic chicken or jackfruit curry. The more intimate Tableau offers an intimate Chef’s Table dining experience, while the Surf Bar provides a relaxed space to enjoy sunset cocktails and a game of pool.

From scuba diving to surfing lessons and even whale watching (between December and April), there’s plenty of activities to keep you happy. If your interest lies in heritage crafts, Resort Pola’s varied workshops highlight the island’s artistic past. I learnt the traditional art of mask-making and painting from local artisans and made one of my very own.

About three hours away by road or a short flight by floatplane is a luxury glamping experience like no other. Perfectly positioned between the thick jungle and a pristine beach, the Wild Coast Tented Lodge in Yala seamlessly blends into its rugged surroundings. On the shores are 28 cocoon tents, inspired by large boulders found on the beach. These tents, which sit near watering holes that attract wildlife, collectively form the shape of a leopard’s paw, alluding to the area’s elusive resident. Wild Coast exemplifies the Resplendent Ceylon sustainable ethos with a wide variety of eco initiatives, such as desalinating water from the ocean for animals to drink from, meeting energy needs with a solar plant, and composting organic waste on site.

The Rooms

After check-in, I was led to my Cocoon Pool Suite — which, I was told one morning, had been visited by an elephant that ate from the berry trees outside while I was asleep. Inside, soaring vaulted ceilings, a handmade copper bathtub and repurposed metallic hardware, a lush four-poster bed as well as dark leather furnishings exude colonial expedition chic and a contemporary aesthetic. After settling into the fully air-conditioned tented suite, one can enjoy the plunge pool or explore the unfenced property—look out for mischievous macaques, wild peacocks and monitor lizards as you navigate the winding paths.

The Food

A safari holiday is not complete without an exciting game drive. Embrace the wild side as expert rangers take you through the exotic wildlife at the adjacent Yala National Park—home to spotted leopards, sloth bears, elephants, native birds and more. Following an adventurous morning, enjoy the ocean breeze while savouring gourmet safari cuisine at the bamboo-clad Dining Pavilion, which was built by local fishermen using locally sourced and recycled materials. I indulged in a massage at the Sanctuary Spa, then went on a guided coastal walk where I was introduced to the incredible diversity of flora and fauna in the area. And before I knew it, the day was almost over. As I sipped on sundowner cocktails, dusk settled over the magnificent Indian Ocean. It was lovely to have dinner on the beach, under the cover of a star-studded sky.

The Facilities

My final stop on this journey via a nearly 7-hour scenic drive — it pays to have motion sickness medication on hand — is Ceylon Tea Trails, the world’s first tea bungalow resort amongst the rolling tea fields of Hatton. You can also get there by floatplane and touchdown on Castlereagh Lake. Perched at 1,250 metres, the award-winning resort epitomises luxury and old-world charm with its five restored colonial-era tea planters’ bungalows, each offering four to six expansive rooms and suites with period furnishings, exquisite butler service and all-inclusive gourmet meals. A family or bigger group can reserve a complete bungalow, designed to make you feel right at home.

I was greeted by a warm, attentive coterie of staff (my own butler, house manager and chef) who took care of everything — from the shuttle ride to stepping into my private Garden Suite at Castlereagh Bungalow where I stayed. Following a quick tour of the property, a spot of decadent afternoon cream tea on the terrace awaits. One can while away the rest of the afternoon chilling poolside with a book or soak in the heated outdoor jacuzzi offering beautiful vistas, accompanied by serene nature sounds, before partaking in a unique tea-infused dinner that melds locally harvested produce and the subtle influences of the flavours of tea.

The next morning, I woke up to a traditional “Bed Tea,” served by my personal butler as a gentle start to the day. Another quintessential tea experience is the guided tour of the Dunkeld Tea Factory with the Tea Planter in Residence, who introduces you to the storied history of Ceylon tea. Also not to be missed is the charming “Planter’s Lunch,” presented picnic-style in tiffin boxes and set on the hillside flanked by tea fields and neighbouring jungles. Then, take a private guided hike among the trails—most recommended to get to know the Sri Lankan way of life and avoid getting lost—or kayak on Castlereagh Lake and enjoy uninterrupted views of the picturesque emerald landscapes.

Laid-back and idyllic, Tea Trails’ glorious mountain setting and tranquil surroundings provide a breathtaking backdrop to relax and recharge—the perfect place to round off my first visit to the “Pearl of the Indian Ocean.” In the spirit of ayubowan (the traditional Sri Lankan farewell), I bid fond goodbyes to the magical landscapes I had discovered on this resplendent journey as my homebound flight took off.

The flight

My journey with Resplendent Ceylon began with a smooth four-hour flight into Colombo via national carrier Sri Lankan Airlines. I was ensconced in Business Class, where seats arranged in reverse herringbone configuration provide direct aisle access for passengers and a good degree of privacy, especially valued during a night flight. My dinner choice of Prawn Masala was flavourful and moreish, but a personal highlight was the tea service—freshly brewed Ceylon tea straight from silver teapots, served in china teacups. The inflight entertainment boasts a wide range of Hollywood and international movies, television programmes, audio albums and audio broadcasts. As the cabin lights dimmed and the starry sky ceiling panels twinkled, I eased into my comfortable flatbed and drifted off to sleep.