The other side of Kyoto: An insider’s guide to the ancient city’s quieter corners

Kyoto’s overtourism problem is well documented. Yet what most do not realise is that the crowds are often concentrated in a surprisingly small number of places, from bamboo groves and temple viewpoints to photogenic streets lined with traditional machiya townhouses.

Beyond these hotspots, however, lies a more contemplative side to the ancient capital - after all, the city is home to roughly 2,000 temples and shrines.

This is the Kyoto that many of us dream of, where aristocratic villas hide behind unassuming gates, neighbourhood shrines remain places of unspoken devotion and canals lined with willow trees offer a glimpse into everyday life. For travellers willing to step off the beaten path, the reward is a more intimate experience of the city.

Rediscovering Higashiyama, Kyoto’s temple district

For many visitors, Higashiyama is synonymous with Kyoto itself. The district packs in some of the city’s most famous landmarks, including Kiyomizu-dera and its historic lanes can be lined with a never ending stream of tourists from morning till evening.

But wander north of the busiest thoroughfares and the atmosphere changes noticeably.

Centred around Okazaki-dori, this pocket of Higashiyama feels calmer and more authentically local. A canal winds through the neighbourhood, historic villas sit tucked behind stone walls, and independent cafes, craft shops and small eateries invite a slower pace of exploration.

One of the area’s landmarks is Heian Shrine, instantly recognisable by its enormous vermilion torii gate. Despite its prominence, the shrine rarely feels as crowded as Kyoto’s more famous temple complexes thanks to its expansive grounds. 

Nearby, Awata Shrine offers an even more intimate experience. It was historically the starting point of the Tokaido route linking Kyoto and Edo (present-day Tokyo), where travellers once stopped to pray for safe journeys before setting out on their journey. Today, the shinkansen has transformed this multi-day voyage into a breeze but the shrine, tucked away from the main tourist routes, stands as a testament to this slice of history.

It was the most peaceful shrine I visited, with just one other visitor - offering the rare luxury of silence.

A short walk away lies Murin-an, a former Meiji-era villa commissioned by statesman Aritomo Yamagata. Designed during a period when Japanese garden design was evolving beyond formal traditions, its grounds feature flowing streams, carefully framed mountain views and a naturalistic landscape intended to evoke movement and seasonal change. To preserve the calm atmosphere, visitor numbers remain intentionally limited, making it one of Kyoto’s most serene cultural sites. 

As luck would have it, I was there on a rainy day, which Yamagata himself considered to offer “the most strikingly moving scenery of all”. Under the drizzle, the garden’s streams seemed more animated and the fresh green foliage of early summer appeared almost luminous in the dappled light.

To return to the city centre, take a pleasant 20 minute stroll along the Shirakawa River, one of Kyoto’s loveliest yet often overlooked waterways. Willow trees line the banks and stone bridges cross the gently flowing water. Between mid-May and mid-June, you may even spot fireflies after sunset, lending an extra touch of magic to an already atmospheric corner of the city.

Peaceful respite: Where to stay

The same sense of calm extends to The Hotel Higashiyama Kyoto Tokyu, a Pan Pacific Hotel tucked away in this quieter corner of Higashiyama.

Located beside Awata Shrine on the former grounds of an elementary school, the hotel balances contemporary comforts with subtle nods to Kyoto’s cultural heritage. Natural materials, warm timber accents and thoughtful touches, from Awata-yaki tea cups to room wear crafted from traditional textiles, lend the property a distinctly local character. 

While all the rooms embrace a soothing, ryokan-inspired aesthetic, the four spacious suites are particularly worth the splurge, with separate living and dining areas. Those in need of deeper relaxation can also book the hotel’s private onsen facilities for an additional charge.

One of the property’s most memorable experiences, however, is its soon-to-launch onigiri-making workshop. While rice balls may seem deceptively simple, shaping them properly requires a surprisingly delicate touch. Under the guidance of the hotel’s head chef, I quickly learnt that the secret lies in handling the rice gently enough to hold its shape without compressing it. This session offered a glimpse into an everyday ritual familiar to many Japanese households and best of all, it is a skill easily recreated at home, making for a meaningful souvenir long after the trip ends.

Discovering Kyoto’s living heritage

Many of Kyoto’s traditions continue to thrive through family businesses, craftspeople and artisans who have spent generations honing their skills.

Food is one of the easiest ways to experience this living heritage. At Kojiya Cafe, visitors can sample dishes built around koji, the fermentation culture used to produce staples of Japanese cuisine such as miso, soy sauce and sake. The family behind the cafe has been making koji since the 1600s. Don’t miss the fresh onigiri generously slathered with two varieties of house-made miso and served alongside homemade pickles. 

For a more formal meal, Minokichi Honten Takeshigero specialises in Kyoto’s refined kaiseki cuisine. The restaurant has been operated by the same family for 11 generations, and during my visit, I was served by both the current proprietor and his wife. It was a fitting reminder that in Kyoto, many traditions remain living practices rather than historical relics.

The city’s museums offer another window into local culture and are often refreshingly free of the crowds that flock to headline attractions. Institutions such as the Museum of Kyoto, Kyoto City Kyocera Museum of Art and Kyoto National Museum are all worth a visit. During my trip, I spent an enjoyable hour at the Museum of Kyoto exploring an exhibition dedicated to ukiyo-e masters Hokusai and Hiroshige, whose works have long shaped the world’s image of Japan.

Of course, there is no better city for browsing specialist retailers. Shoyeido Kyoto, a centuries-old incense maker, houses a small museum dedicated to the history of the craft, while Ippodo Tea remains one of the best places to stock up on matcha and Japanese tea. For a more serendipitous shopping experience, wander along Gokomachi-dori, a lesser-known street lined with independent boutiques and craft stores.

Beyond the city centre

Unknown to many, one of Kyoto’s most rewarding day trips is Ohara, a rural district about an hour north of the city. Surrounded by mountains and rice fields, it feels far removed from the crowds of central Kyoto.

Its best-known attraction is Sanzen-in Temple, famous for its moss-covered gardens. A local guide explained that while many cultures prize manicured grass lawns, in Japan moss is valued for the sense of wabi sabi (beauty in imperfection) it conveys. 

Walking through Sanzen-in, it is easy to see why. Vivid green moss carpets the ground beneath towering hinoki and sugi trees, creating an almost otherworldly atmosphere. Many visitors come in autumn for the golden-orange maple foliage but outside this peak season, there are fewer crowds, making it possible to enjoy the subtle beauty of nature that so profoundly shapes Japanese aesthetics.

Afterwards, stop at Blend Kyoto Sanzenin, a minimalist craft coffee roastery overlooking a babbling stream for a hand-poured cuppa and an opportunity to simply sit and soak it all in.

Local intelligence: See Kyoto through local eyes

One experience I was initially sceptical about ultimately became one of the most insightful: a traditional rickshaw tour through Higashiyama. (The Hotel Higashiyama Kyoto Tokyu can arrange this, or look out for the rickshaws around the main tourist areas.)

While it may seem gimmicky at first, I soon discovered it felt more like exploring Kyoto’s parts unknown with a knowledgeable local guide. The Japanese rickshaw pullers speak English and can tailor routes to your interests, leading visitors away from busy streets and into quieter corners.

Along the way, I learnt about a centuries-old kusu tree said to have inspired the giant camphor tree in My Neighbour Totoro, passed filming locations from The Last Samurai and wandered through Miyagawa-cho, a historic geisha district with a more lowkey vibe compared to bustling Gion.

That local context made all the difference. Rather than simply taking me to places I could check off a bucket list, the rickshaw driver helped me understand why these places matter, adding a deeper layer to a city that runs deep.