Osteria Mozza at Hilton Singapore: Where handmade pastas and gelato desserts await
PS: We’re still waiting for the return of the restaurant’s wood-fired sourdough pizzas.
By Chelsia Tan -
There’s Mario Batali’s Osteria Mozza, which shut its doors in Marina Bay Sands in 2018, and then there’s American celebrity chef Nancy Silverton’s resuscitation of the Cal-Italian restaurant at Hilton Singapore.
At first glance, it seems like this rebirth is a step away from Osteria’s old Batali-led days. Shedding the MBS locale’s excessive dark wood interiors, the new restaurant now features lighter and more homely surrounds inspired by a Tuscan farmhouse – gabion stone walls, rustic decor, and plants framing floor-to-ceiling windows and lining an airy outdoor space that overlooks the Orchard Road belt. Perhaps, it's a signifier of a brand new chapter, one moving on from Batali’s sexual misconduct scandal which shook the culinary world in 2017.
The Nancy Silverton touch
The Silverton iteration places an unwavering emphasis on applying simple cooking to the freshest seasonal produce. Take the Nancy's Caesar. It’s a deconstructed version of the classic Caesar salad, but an unpretentious one, no less. Boiled eggs, leek and anchovies are carefully rearranged on slices of crostini, accompanied by crisp Romaine lettuce – an easy-to-eat dish with broad appeal.
Nancy's Caesar. Photo: Osteria Mozza Singapore
Under Silverton, the menu currently focuses on the restaurant's handmade pastas. But what about Osteria’s famed wood-fired pizzas? All in good time, we were told. Apparently, the pies will be part of the lunch menu, which may be launched in the next couple of months. And with Silverton at the helm, some tweaks are to be expected: Cooked with California almond wood over high heat in a custom wood stone oven, the pizzas are said to feature a crisp and fine base and an enhanced sourdough flavour – a marked departure from what most of us may remember from MBS.
The restaurant is buzzing even on a Wednesday night – diners are seated almost immediately after their predecessors have cleared. Gone are the imposing dark wood interiors of the old restaurant and the segregation of pizzeria and Osteria Mozza sections. The new Osteria encourages communal dining – in one section, guests share an extended booth seat, the 14-seater mozzarella bar is smack dab in the heart of the restaurant, while clear glass windows are what separates the indoor diners from those in the al fresco section. Private parties of 10 can choose to dine in the private dining room, which peeks out into a small outdoor patio.
Come extremely hungry, because the food at Osteria Mozza is unapologetically rich. If you’d had to choose one starter, it’d better be the mozzarella di puglia, a milky white orb that’s steeped in garlic-infused olive oil. Sweet cruschi peppers give it an addictive crunch – dip a piece of butter-soaked fett’unta into the cheese, and we’re hooked.
For all of Osteria’s focus on promoting its pasta offerings, the selection is still a curated one. To be exact, there are 10 different handmade varieties to consider – from maltagliati in duck ragu to cencioni, Dungeness crab and saffron. More is more when it comes to the fonduta ravioli, with creamy cheese encased in el dente ravioli and served with a generous topping of fondue cheese. A liberal drizzle of Italian balsamic vinegar, aged for 25 years and produced in Modena, cuts through the dairy.
If carbs are not on the dinner agenda, there are surf and turf mains available. Of the lot, the pork chop Milanese tops our list of highlights. Bite into the crisp, breaded skin and you’ll be pleasantly surprised at how firm and juicy the meat is, with no greasy overspill. A side of cherry tomatoes and rucola mitigates the guilty pleasure of scarfing down a slab of pork chop that’s nearly as big as your face.
But wait, what about the desserts? Nobody should leave Osteria Mozza without ordering from its dolci menu. The sweets here revolve around gelato and with Silverton also known for Nancy’s Fancy, her line of small-batch gelato and sorbetto, is there any wonder these icy treats are calling for our attention? The rosemary olive oil cake, with salty-sweet olive oil gelato heaped on a crumbly rosemary cake, is so good, you’ll want the whole plate to yourself.
There’s more – the banana gelato pie, drenched in rich hot fudge sauce and packed with candied hazelnuts is absolutely sinful, but you won’t mind the penance of doubling your step count the next day. We are told that the restaurant will be offering a tableside hot fudge sundae cart service soon, where diners can customise their sundaes with a variety of toppings.
Crowd-pleasers are aplenty at Osteria Mozza, making it a fail-safe choice for a satisfying indulgence. You might want to look elsewhere if you’re 1) on a calorie count, 2) lactose intolerant or 3) are painfully carb conscious. To fully enjoy the hearty Cal-Italian fare here, dining without inhibitions – or restrictions – is highly recommended.