Celebrating Nyepi: Lessons from the beauty of stillness at Ayana Resort Bali

We are standing on the deck of a closed rooftop bar in pitch darkness. A misstep, and one of us could unwittingly make a splash in the infinity pool below. Above, the sky, previously burdened with ominous rain clouds, has cleared to reveal a smattering of stars and constellations that seem to shine brighter as we gaze into the night. Below, darkness stretches across the land, as far as the eye can see.

“Tomorrow’s winds will blow tomorrow,” I think to myself, recalling a Japanese proverb that I’ve loosely attributed to being in the present. Just hours ago, unrelentingly bad weather threatened to derail the day’s activities, as well as tonight’s star-gazing session.

I’m among a small group of journalists and content creators invited by Ayana Resort Bali to experience the island’s annual Nyepi Festival in March, which follows several purification rituals (Melasti, Tawur Agung, Pengrupukan) that culminate in the Day of Silence where all of Bali comes to a standstill for 24 hours. 

Nyepi is a day of meditation and self-reflection, and activities that deviate from this purpose – Amati Geni (no fire or light), Amati Karya (no working), Amati Lelunganan (no travelling) and Amati Lelanguan (no revelry) – are prohibited. Roads, airports, bars and restaurants are closed, and locals and visitors are not permitted to wander outside.

Oftentimes, it’s easy for visitors to forget that for all of its vibrant nightlife, Insta-worthy cafes and hip yoga studios, Balinese culture is rooted in a deep respect and reverence for nature, one that follows the philosophy of Tri Hita Karana “Three Causes of Goodness”, which espouses a harmonious relationship with people, nature and the divine.

A trip to the ‘Island of the Gods' would be incomplete without exploring its rich history of spirituality. Bringing attention to this integral part of the local experience is Ayana Resort, which has collaborated with a board of curators – including esteemed Balinese scholar, dancer, artist and author, Prof I Made Bandem, and his son, Marlowe Bandem, a Balinese culture archivist – to establish the newly-opened Saka Museum within the 90-hectare resort.

Says Marlowe: “In the realm of arts and culture, Bali stands out for its openness to foreign influences. Given this, why not let the community prompt the committee to consider a particular aspect that hasn't been explored? 

“It took us some time to deliberate, but when we came together, everything fell into place, materialising in this grand design. First and foremost, Saka means 'pillar', reflecting our aspiration to be the cornerstone of arts, culture, history, and the aesthetic expressions of the community.”

A spirited cultural immersion

The Saka Museum, a contemporary two-storey building, houses a growing collection of traditional Balinese artefacts and 10 imposing ogoh-ogoh effigies constructed by nine Balinese craftsmen and banjar (local community) youths.

These papier-mache creations, which typically depict Hindu mythological beings, are presented in a lively Ogoh-ogoh Parade during the Nyepi Festival. Traditionally, they are fixed on wood and bamboo platforms carried by locals, and danced through the streets in a goyang (rocking) fashion. 

The ogoh-ogohs are rotated counterclockwise three times at every T-junction or crossroad to confuse and ward off evil spirits. Finally, the ceremony concludes with the burning of the effigies in a purification ritual, symbolising the renewal of positive energy for the new year.

At the museum, visitors can learn more about the various Hindu deities and demons that shape Balinese beliefs and folklore through guided tours, and via a visit to the museum’s Knowledge Center. Browse through books on Bali’s culture, including rare editions and children’s titles, or pore over several Balinese artefacts on display, such as the various carved wooden Balinese calendars. There are also regular screenings of a short documentary about Nyepi and the Saka Museum in the auditorium.

We attended a talk hosted by Prof Bandem and Marlowe, which turned out to be a spirited affair. The hour-long session dived into the intricacies of the rituals and traditional dances, as well as the symbolism of the masks worn by dancers. “These sacred dances are integral to the Melasti ceremony of purification rituals, serving as a heartfelt presentation to the mighty universe and the Almighty Creator,” explains Marlowe.

A sacred Rejang dance was performed by Prof Bandem’s wife, Suasthi, herself a Balinese dancer and scholar. She glided gracefully, her hands and feet moving languidly to the haunting vocals of Prof Bandem. 

I was perfectly content with observing the demonstrations, until Prof Bandem announced that we were to participate in a kecak dance session, an invitation that (as a polite member of the audience) was impossible to refuse. The vocal chanting kecak dance, performed by about 50 to 100 men during temple festivals, has its roots in traditional Sanghyang trance rituals. Since the 1930s, it has evolved to become a form of entertainment that emphasises menyama-braya, or kinship, amongst the local communities.

The introvert in me winced as I tried awkwardly to follow the shaking hand movements while chanting the words "chak ke-chak ke-chak ke-chak". Recalling the uplifting significance of the performance, which is based on the Indian tale of Ramayana, an ancient epic on the battle of good vs evil, I gradually let my inhibitions go with every movement.

As our chorus reached a rousing crescendo, I turned to my seatmate in amusement, who returned my smile with a jovial twinkle in his eyes as we chanted “chak ke-chak” in unison.

Embracing the flow of Ogoh-ogoh

The weather forecast had been bleak since our arrival in Bali on 9 March, the day prior to the Ogoh-ogoh parade. Just as Swifties back in Singapore prayed for clear skies before the pop star’s mega concerts that weekend, we did the same – for the festivities that were to follow after the lecture.

The wet weather had not returned despite the heavy rain the night before, at least for a few hours during the parade. After a prayer ritual led by a local priestess, the procession, attended by hundreds of Ayana’s guests, commenced on the resort’s grounds. 

A gamelan (traditional percussion band) follows the elaborately-detailed effigies of Bima (the divine son of the wind god Vayu) and Raksasa Kala Mayapada (a type of demon), measuring about two and a half-metres tall, hoisted by a group of local men and members of the Ayana Resort team. 

Intent on capturing the pageantry of it all, I suddenly found myself surrounded by a large kecak chorus – men with bare torsos and weathered grins on their faces. The procession reached a T-junction, during which the ogoh-ogoh started to manoeuvre in a sweeping rotation. In a split second, we instinctively moved in a phalanx, in perfect synchrony with movements of the effigy. 

I would later reflect on the irony of the moment: If I had doubted my instincts and hesitated, I could very well have been on a collision course. Thankfully, that scenario did not play out and the parade ended with a water purification ceremony in place of the burning of the ogoh-ogohs.

The following day, in observance of Nyepi and Isakawarsa (the New Year), establishments across Bali were either closed or operating discreetly. Ayana was no exception. While electricity and Wi-Fi networks remained functional, guests were encouraged to embrace a more contemplative approach to their schedules.

Numerous activities were offered, including sunrise yoga sessions, sound baths, and revitalising spa treatments such as the Thalassotherapy treatment (the use of seawater as a form of therapy) or a traditional Balinese massage. I can't imagine a more perfect way to spend the afternoon than having my knots and nerves gently eased by the skilled hands of the masseuse.

The villa that I stayed in, which had a view of the ocean from a distance, was a cavernous, 298 square-metre hideaway surrounded by lush trees, a private courtyard – complete with your own personal pool – and a luxurious bathroom in floor-to-ceiling marble. There was even a personal butler service available, ensuring that all creature comforts were taken care of.

The infinite wisdom of Nyepi

Tonight, I’m admiring the stars with my companions on Luna Rooftop Bar, observing Nyepi Day. The mood is subdued with quiet contemplation. It’s not often that we allow ourselves to do nothing but enjoy the peace of being still.

Marlowe’s poem, Sasi Wimba Haneng Gata (Beautiful Reflection of the Moon in Tranquil Waters), which he penned for the Saka Museum, comes to mind:

Merupa dari kesuniyan (Rising from silence)

siluet elok dan benderang (a silhouette unique and bright) 

Melebur dalam temaramnya rembulan (Within the moon’s reflection)

kearifan Nyepi berpadu bersama angin malam. (Nyepi wisdom whispers in the night)

What has Nyepi taught me? Perhaps its most meaningful lesson is about letting go – of past ruminations, current consternations, and future yearnings. Only when we are able to put our “selves” aside, that we can fully appreciate what it means to be truly present with what we already have. 

And with that, I send my gratitude to the cosmos above.

In collaboration with Ayana Resort Bali