Iris Van Herpen’s ‘Sculpting the Senses’ exhibition transforms fashion into art

Of all the luxury designers to make an impression on Gen Z aesthetes and intellectuals, Iris Van Herpen would definitely be one of them. After all, who else would resonate with the generation dubbed “the sustainability generation” than a multidisciplinary designer who prioritises sustainability and finds inspiration in the natural world?

Now, the Dutch designer takes her designs to Singapore with the upcoming Iris van Herpen: Sculpting the Senses exhibition – her first solo show in Asia. Presented by ArtScience Museum in collaboration with Musee des Arts Decoratifs (MAD), the exhibit is available for public viewing from March 15 to August 10.

Van Herpen was there in person to present her work at the exhibition’s media preview ahead of its public opening on March 15.

The show is organised in nine themes spread across eleven galleries at the ArtScience Museum, and it investigates the body as both a physical and conceptual theme, how the senses shape our experiences, and “highlights connections between fashion, science and natural world,” says Honor Harger, the museum’s vice-president.

The Dutch couturier is known for melding advanced technology (such as 3D printing and laser cutting) with motifs from the natural world, and she’s currently in Singapore for the opening of the exhibition. First presented in 2024 in the Musee des Arts Interectifs in Paris, the Singapore leg is slightly different. Expanding on its predecessor, this iteration places Van Herpen’s designs in direct conversation with Southeast Asia’s regional biodiversity.

Known for her kinetic designs, Van Herpen finds inspiration across the arts and sciences. Including dance, architecture, contemporary art, marine biology, robotics, algorithmic design, and more to create sculptural haute couture garments. She’s even collaborated with scientists of various specialisations for projects.

Showcasing a selection of over 140 looks and accessories selected by Van Herpen and MAD, her designs are displayed alongside various contemporary artwork and specimens. Why? To put her work in conversation with the broad themes she finds inspiration in: art and science. Each artwork and specimen was specifically made for and loaned to the exhibit from collectors, the Lee Kong Chian Natural History Museum, and renowned local and international artists like Yayoi Kusama, Ruben Pang, and more.

“I hope for people… to feel the interconnectedness of life; feel the connection between art and science, the connection between couture and philosophy, innovation and traditional craftsmanship,” says Van Herpen.

Below, more details from the show.

Some of the dresses featured in the first zone of the ‘Iris van Herpen: Sculpting the Senses’ exhibit: ‘Water and Dreams,’ which explores the themes of water in its liquid, frozen and gaseous states.

In ‘Skeletal Embodiment,’ Van Herpen’s fascination with the body is dissected – she analyses skeletons, muscles and cartilage to create gowns that look like exoskeletons. Skeletal sculptures and animal specimens are showcased alongside couture gowns- including a 60 cm long python skeleton, and an anglerfish’s skeleton – spot one of them in this picture?

From Bjork, to Beyonce, to Grimes, Van Herpen’s designs have been worn by so many stars – some of which are on display across all eleven galleries, including ‘Cabinet of Curiosities’ pictures above. Alongside insect specimens from Black Crow Taxidermy and Art are jewellery, headpieces, shoes and other accessiries created in collaboration with other designers like Irene Bussemaker. On her favourite musical collaborators? Van Herpen says Bjork and Lady Gaga. Little Monsters rise!

Speaking of stars- does this dress look familiar? It’s singer Grimes’ gown for the 2021 Met Gala. This custom couture look was inspired by the Bene Gessirit in the sci-fi series Dune and can be seen up-close in the ‘Synaesthesia’ gallery. Fact: Van Herpen has synaesthesia. This section explores the couturier’s research into modifed states of consciousness, lucid dreaming and hynosis. Spend time some extra time staring at the gowns in this section- you might find your eye playing tricks on you.

The exhibit even showcases Van Herpen’s creative process from sketch to mannequin in the ‘Alchemic Atelier’, which showcases an archive of biotechnical materials and textiles from her own studio. This includes embroideries, waterjet cutting, plisse foldings, silicone mouldings, kinetic texters and much more- it literally fills the gallery walls from ceiling to floor.

A snap shot of the material experiments by Van Herpen and her team. Dubbed “craftolution” by Van Herpen, this section is an oppurtunity to see her manufacturing process up close.

‘Mythology of Fear’ explores Van Herpen’s interest in chimera creatures with dresses inspired by alchemy and mythology. Expect gowns with scaly and reptilian textures, including this dress that was inspired by the Greek legend of Medusa aptly displayed alongside a statuette of Greek hero Perseus with her severed head.

The journey concludes in the gallery ‘Cosmic Bloom’ where gowns defy gravity and float through space and time. Van Herpen has taken much inspiration from the mysteries of the cosmos over the years, this gallery is an homage to that by combining new scientific discoveries with the histories of art and science.

Intricate doesn’t begin to describe the level of craftsmanship of Van Herpen’s work. One tip to really experience each garment: get as close as you can.

On why she thinks her designs resonate so deeply with Gen Z, Van Herpen points to her reputation as a forward-thinking designer. She says, “There’s so much room for experimenting and synergy between different disciplines.” While others (especially her Gen Z followers) see the future in her work, she doesn’t always think about it while designing, rather, she believes that “we have greater influence on shaping the future today than we realise.”

The exhibit also features collection of specimens- take a look at some of the specimens on display in the ‘Sensory Sea Life’ gallery, loaned from the Lee Kong Chian Natural History Museum at the National University of Singapore.

The Iris van Herpen: Sculpting the Senses exhibition is on from March 15 – August 10, 2025, 10am – 7pm daily, at ArtScience Museum, 6 Bayfront Avenue. Get your tickets here.

This article was originally published in FEMALE.