Former executive chef of Michelin-starred restaurant Raw shares his Taipei food guide

On his most memorable meal on this trip

Credit: Zor Tan

1/3

Yilan is famous for their Sanxing spring onions, so visiting a spring onion farm is a must. We got to see how they plant spring onions and make them into spring onion bread. I like that Sanxing spring onions are more fragrant – they have a peppery flavour and are sweeter than the usual variety. It was an interesting visit as we were able to explore the farm, and my kids enjoyed the nature. My daughter could also see and learn where produce comes from.

My most memorable meal on this trip was at one Michelin-starred restaurant T+T in
Taipei. T+T is an abbreviation for ‘tapas tasting’, but instead of Spanish tapas, they serve Asian-inspired small plates. Chef Johnny and I go way back. When the restaurant received their Michelin star during the COVID period, I was unable to congratulate him in person. I’ve been meaning to visit him, and I was very happy to be able to with my family. He has since opened a private dining restaurant in a shophouse just opposite T+T. I’m glad we got to dine at T+T and experience how he has grown over the years as a chef.

The food scene in Taipei is so vibrant in its culinary diversity and concepts. Some of my favourite fine dining restaurants are RAW, Taïrroir, and MUME. Another restaurant I have not tried but is on my bucket list is Logy, as I’ve known Chef Ryogo for a long time and we had the chance to cook together when he was at Florilège. I appreciate how these restaurants feature modern cuisine, while introducing and showcasing Taiwanese produce. There’s always a sense of discovery when dining at these restaurants.

I would also recommend 女娘的店†(Mother’s Kitchen) in the Shilin district of Taipei. The home-style restaurant serves traditional, authentic Taiwanese food and has been awarded the Michelin Bib Gourmand for four consecutive years since 2019. I really enjoyed the food there – it was a taste of tradition. But what was unique was that walking into the restaurant felt like I was walking into someone’s home, from the look of the building and interiors to the warm hospitality of the locals.

What are some night markets in Taiwan that you recommend and why?

Credit: Zor Tan

3/3

One of my favourite night markets to visit is Raohe Night Market. Not only is it big, but easy to navigate and walk around as the stores are lined in rows. Some of my must-haves whenever I’m there are the wild boar Taiwanese sausage, and shaved ice drizzled with condensed milk and topped with black sesame-filled glutinous rice dumplings.
Could you recommend any hidden gems that only locals know?
Dihua Street in Taipei. As the oldest street in Taipei, there are many heritage buildings and old shophouses. Since the 19th century, it has been an important centre for commerce in Taiwanese products and produce. Besides taking in the architecture, you can shop for dried goods, medicinal herbs, and fabric. There are also restaurants, teahouses and cafes. Dihua Street is a bit of a hidden gem as it’s not a mainstream tourist attraction, except for those in the know.
What edible souvenirs should people buy from Taipei?
The salted egg pineapple cake from Pan’s Cake Banqiao Zhongzheng Store is delicious! I love the buttery and sweet and savoury taste. It is a speciality that you can only get from Taiwan.
Which dining destinations do you want to visit for your next trip to Taiwan?
On my next trip, I would like to visit AKAME in Pingtung. AKAME is a one-of-a-kind experience as Chef Alex presents aboriginal Taiwanese food in a modern way, and cooks with ingredients from the surrounds over traditional wood fire. Also on my list is JL Studio in Taichung to support Chef Jimmy!

This article was originally published in The Peak.