The world of high jewellery can often appear intimidating. How do I start my own collection?

Nicolas Luchsinger, president of Van Cleef & Arpels, Asia-Pacific, answers this question.

Consider heritage

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Many of today's buyers, especially in Asia, prefer to understand the DNA of a jewellery maison before investing in a piece. They want to uncover the history and see the inspiration behind the brand. Even entry level pieces without diamonds are part of the history of the maison. For example, the Alhambra was created in 1968 and has a very interesting story to it. [Ed’s note: Jacques Arpels, who was the nephew of the founders, would often pick four-leaf clovers in his backyard and give them to his employees as good luck charms.] We also have pieces inspired by ballet, as dance is something close to the maison’s heart. When someone buys them, they buy it for the mystery or the aura of the maison.

Craftsmanship is key

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Take note of the stones. For example, try to have natural stones, and not treated sapphire or rubies. At Van Cleef & Arpels, we have a mystery setting which is a technique developed in the 1930s and is specific to the maison. We have a stonecutter who works on cutting and a stone setter who will slide every ruby onto a rail, and you don’t see any visible setting, hence the name mystery setting. It’s a very time-consuming process, but craftsmanship is very important to us.

Provenance is a bonus

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One of the bracelets on display at the Time, Nature, Love exhibition in Seoul is the Jarretiere bracelet that was once owned by actor Marlene Dietrich. Having a signed name is definitely an important factor to look out for when acquiring heritage pieces.

Mistakes are bound to happen

When starting a jewellery collection, it is natural that you might make mistakes; but don't be afraid to do so. As your eye becomes more refined, you can always sell the pieces you don't like anymore and acquire new ones. 

Most importantly, buy because you want it

Be open-minded. When purchasing jewellery, always buy it because you like to wear it. Don't buy jewellery just because you want to collect an example of a particular period.

Nicolas Luchsinger is the president of Van Cleef & Arpels, Asia-Pacific. He has spent the last 17 years with the French brand and has been instrumental in preserving and elevating high jewellery pieces through his work as international director of the maison’s Heritage collection.

The Van Cleef & Arpels: Time, Nature, Love exhibition will run until 14 April 2024 at the D Museum, located at 83-21 Wangsimni-ro, Seongdong-gu, Seoul, South Korea.