As part of Istituto Marangoni London (IML)‘s 20th Anniversary celebrations, the school presented for the first time a phygital graduate fashion show titled “DISRUPT/DISTORT,” unveiled on the runway and in the Metaverse via a unique, immersive platform dubbed ‘The Talent District.’ The show bridged the physical and virtual realms of today’s fashion world while highlighting the significance of “firsthand industry experience, mentorship in education, and the future potential of contemporary advancements”.
Guided and mentored by acclaimed designers such as menswear extraordinaire Grace Wales Bonner and industry experts, ten exceptional IML students pushed the boundaries of fashion with an experimental edge, radical creativity and innovative thinking; their work is a testament to why Istituto Marangoni — with locations in other design-centric cities such as Paris, Florence, Miami, Shanghai and Dubai — is routinely considered one of the world’s most prestigious fashion schools.
With collections inspired by everything from Jack the Ripper to mountaineers’ dreams, meet the ten standout designers who presented their visions at Istituto Marangoni London’s latest graduate show.
Collection: Psychopathic Murderer, Jack the Ripper
Yoo developed a collection that captures the enigma of London’s infamous serial killer, Jack the Ripper. Through skilled tailoring, oversized shapes and hidden details, Yoo created interchangeable silhouettes through the use of drawstrings, straps, and collars to simulate the murderer’s contrasting behaviours. Yoo also showcased his extensive knowledge of materials with a variety of fabrics and textures such as rough wool, tweed, felt, jersey organza and gabardine in a dark colour palette, evoking a chilling atmosphere.
Collection: Not Broken
Savchenko created garments by manipulating paper types ranging from waterproof and water-soluble papers to newspapers, evoking the imagery of shattered window glass and alluding to the idea that broken things can be transformed into something resilient. Through innovative design with a focus on the sustainability of paper, the collection conveys a poignant message of hope, renewal and tranquility in overcoming struggles and conflict.
Drawn to the natural process of shedding as a vital process of regeneration and transformation for all living beings, as well as taking cues from the works of Canadian sculpture artist David Altmejd,whose works brilliantly embody the theme, Anderson sought to capture the essence of a beautiful mess by experimenting with various textiles, manipulating and weaving yarns, wool, and scrap fabrics together. The collection, in its vibrant splendour, reflects the transformative power of shedding and celebrates renewal and metamorphosis.
Collection: On Wednesday, We Wear Black
Stemming from her personal experiences with attention-deficit/hyperactivity disorder (ADHD) and dyslexia as a child, as well as her struggles with discipline and authority, Hen’s collection is an expression of resilience and individuality. She presented messy layers, extreme silhouettes, enlarged bows and flying neckties in checked black and white, artistically expressing her struggles, growth and transformation.
Collection: Rebirth of Don Quixote
Inspired by the Spanish epic novel Don Quixote by Miguel de Cervantes, Giju Kim portrayed his vision and ambitions in fashion through the lens of the novel’s protagonist Don Quixote, a middle-aged Spanish gentleman who dreamed of becoming a knight. Kim skilfully incorporated elements of traditional menswear tailoring and showcased his expertise in construction and fabrics—rendered in oversized capes, jackets, shirts as well as fabric layers symbolic of Don Quixote’s wounds from failure and disillusionment. This collection is an embodiment of a famous quote from the novel, “I know who I am and who I may be if I choose.”
Collection: Vintage Toy
Jiaxi referenced her childhood innocence and passion for vintage toy collecting and assemblage by bringing a deconstructed effect to her designs. Through fabric manipulation and experimentation in the fluidity of movement, Zhuang brought 2D garments to life by way of three-dimensional effects, unusual patterns, layers and colour combinations. Traditional tartan and houndstooth patterns printed on organza, satin and cotton are balanced with heavier materials such as wool and corduroy, resulting in an interplay between playful whimsy and timeless craftsmanship.
Embarking on a journey of escapism, Grazioli’s collection was born out of her childhood fascination with conspiracy theories surrounding extra-terrestrial phenomena, myths and visual evidence of flying sources. Her bold vision plays out through the use of silver leather, velvet fabrics and synthetic materials such as scuba, spandex and nylon to create otherworldly shapes and silhouettes.
Collection: Ups and Downs
A tribute to Nepal’s Sherpas and their colourful heritage, Kabeláčová intertwines the aspirations of mountaineers and the limitless realm of lucid dreaming in the collection. With a strong focus on reducing waste and creating versatile garments, she used sustainable fabrics to create transformative pieces in dopamine colours and unique silhouettes.
Using fashion as a bridge between Hinduist beliefs and Islam’s Sufism, Singh aims to transcend prejudice and judgement. He captures the Sufi dervish’s movements through garments with captivating drapes, pleats, gathers, which create fluid silhouettes. A timeless, gender-neutral colour palette and thoughtfully-selected fabrics like suiting wools, shirred cotton and sand-washed Cupro make for a texturally-rich collection.
Collection: Blue City
“Blue City” pays homage to the beauty of Jodhpur and its architectural grandeur—think geometric patterns, angular shapes, and vibrant blues rendered in a collection of unique silhouettes and forms. Focusing on sustainability and a zero-waste design process, Kanchwala used CLO (a 3D fashion design software program) to envision the garments’ appearance, which proved instrumental in reducing fabric, design costs, and time.