6 things you can do in Siem Reap besides visiting Angkor Wat

Also known as Hap Guan Street,  Kandal Village is the nexus of boho chic in Siem Reap. The colonial-inspired, brightly coloured, tree-lined block is the perfect place to while away an afternoon after visiting the temples. Make more time for Louise Loubatieres, a boutique owned and run by Louise Loubatieres herself who designs many of the homewares, clothes and accessories that marry traditional influences with modern design.

The boutique had undergone a six-month renovation before the pandemic to become twice its original size now. Louise’s lacquered bowls and silk-covered beaded necklaces are a hit with many customers including former expatriates who continued to mail-order her designs even after returning home during the pandemic.

If this is not your first trip, you would probably have been to the neighbouring Little Red Fox Espresso. But you should still drop by for a robust cuppa and to bask in the friendly atmosphere that seems to permeate the Village.

To enjoy Cambodian produce reimagined and beautifully plated with Western inflections, book a table at Lum Orng. Opened in mid-2019, this restaurant located 20 minutes away from the city centre, uses seasonal local produce some of which is harvested from the restaurant’s garden farm next door, and from the chef-owner’s farm in Beng Mealea, 65 kilometres from Siem Reap. The restaurant offers two seven-course menu at US$32 and US$45.

The beef tartare with poached quail egg, red ant larvae, and fresh herbs surprised me with its big bursts of fresh and tart flavours within mouthfuls of rich local beef tenderloin. What else do I like about it? It is owned and run by a local chef, Sothea Seng, who is the son of farmers. Through Lum Orng, Sothea wants to showcase the quality of Cambodian produce.

Since elephant rides are passé and unpopular (due to the unethical practices of many operators around the world), here’s a more PC suggestion to see these gentle giants while on a holiday. How about visiting them in their natural habit, watching them from a respectful distance and even taking a walk besides them? Kulen Elephant Forest, a 445-ha community forest in the Prasat Bakong district, an hour’s drive from Siem Reap, allows visitors to do all of these. You can even feed bamboo and bananas to them.

Tonle Sap, Southeast Asia’s  biggest freshwater lake, courses through Siem Reap. Therefore, you might want to hop on a cruise on the lake while in the city – if seeing how other people live is something that interests you. Many of the floating villages on the lake are home to Cambodians who are Vietnamese by ethnicity. Their history and way of life is so interesting, that it will take another story altogether to tell it in a way that does the people justice.

From the Amanbala, a motor-powered vessel handcrafted in the style of a wooden Cambodian boat, and owned by Amansara (under the uber-luxe hospitality group Aman Resort) where I was a guest, I got a glimpse into this colourful part of Siem Reap’s waterscape on a private tour. Birders will enjoy visiting the Tonle Sap from May to October. During this period, the water in the lake rises, turning it richer with wild and birdlife. *There are many operators that run Tonle Sap cruise on a variety of vessels for different budgets. Check with your hotel or tour guide for one that meets your needs.

Siem Reap’s famous drinking street nicknamed Pub Street is now a ghost of its former self. Prior to the pandemic, many visitors had found it a tad too touristy. So, I’d advise to skip it in favour of Streets 26 and 27, a trendy enclave in the Wat Bo neighbourhood which has become the place to hang out for hip Cambodians and foreigners with insider information.

A telling sign that you have picked the right place is that Miss Wong, the Chinoiserie-inspired bar and a Siem Reap institution where watering holes are concerned, has relocated from Pub Street to Street 26.

Head to Stewart on 26, a bar, restaurant and nightclub, and channels Brooklyn. Opened since January, Stewart on 26 packs a happening crowd who loves the martinis there. On the second floor is a gallery that showcases the works of up-and-coming local photographers.

For an entertaining evening, catch a performance at Phare, The Cambodian Circus which is also the primary source of funding for students at an arts school in Battambang. Besides the giving-back factor, the show the young artistes put on is also worth watching for its wow-factor. The set is simple but the acrobatics performed by the alumni of the art school to live music played on an ensemble of Cambodian classical and electric instruments, are spectacular, moving and inspiring.

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