Every once in a while, when work puts us through the grinder, we’d sometimes screw up the dates of an important anniversary or a dinner party. In my case, it was a long-awaited tasting at California Republic, a SoCal restaurant and bar along Amoy Street that has received largely positive reviews since opening in April.
“I’m here for a media tasting,” I announce as I enter the intimate shophouse space, decked in retro-looking wood veneer walls with floorboards to match. Upbeat funk music plays softly in the background as I look around, secretly pleased that I am the first to arrive – and right on time at 6pm, no less. Being warmly received by the staff, I have no inkling that I’ve actually turned up one week too early for my appointment.
“It’s actually next Thursday, so I’m afraid you’ll be dining alone,” restaurant manager Khai informs me with an easy smile as he shows me to my seat. “But don’t worry, you are more than welcome, and we’ll all be keeping you company.”
And so they did – with open arms, no less. West Coast hospitality was in full swing as the team, including chef Carl Jaeger, made it a point to ensure that this accidental solo diner did not look – and feel – like she’d been stood up by a date as the evening crowd started streaming in. Having a meal at California Republic, while excellent (more on that later), is more than just fresh, unpretentious Italian fare done right. It’s a doorway to what one might imagine LA to be in the ‘60s: warm, buzzing, vibrant, and all heart.
A sputnik pendant lamp hangs from the ceiling of a booth, complete with tufted leather seating the colour of dark wine. On the wall, Planet of the Apes and Barbarella movie posters pay homage to sci-fi’s New Wave era. California Republic is an unabashed retrospective of mid-century modern decor, and your ‘Gram will thank them for it.
Designed to resemble a home, the 65-seater restaurant maximises each corner, carving out cosy nooks perfect for fireside chats or a hot date. And if you’re somewhat of an op-shopper, curios like a vintage pistachio green Bush radio might just spark joy.
Southern California is a hodgepodge of both immigrant and native cultures, so it’s no surprise that the menu highlights the best of the Golden State – think house made pastas, and more. Come during lunch, and a rotating menu of woodfired pizzas – clams with nduja (a spicy pork sausage paste from Italy’s Calabria region), sopressata (a leaner type of salami) and eggplant, to name a few – celebrate the bastion of So-Cal cuisine.
But really, we’re here for the Meatballs al Angeleno, which takes its cue from a recipe shared by chef David Almany (formerly of Angeleno and Osteria Mozza). The meatballs, inspired by the humble sub sandwich, is a flavourful combination of pork and veal. Chef Carl explains that the meatballs, which are soaked in milk, take about half a day to make. Basil is added to the house made tomato sauce at the very end of the cooking process so the leaves don’t end up tasting bitter and burned. Rounding up the dish are char-grilled slices of sourdough bread that’s good enough on its own.
Another dish that you can’t miss is the Lazy Man’s Cioppino, a spin on a beloved San Francisco dish. The briny seafood and tomato broth is generously heaped with clams, mussels, calamari, and roasted sea bass. You may be tempted to scoop out every last bit of this deliciousness (and we don’t blame you), but hold out for the West Coast Garlic Mops, and you’ll be glad you did. Soft, fluffy, and oh-so-buttery, the bread is served piping hot in a cast iron skillet and goes beautifully with the cioppino broth.
The food, anchored by East Coast Italian influences, is buoyed by the bright and fresh flavours of the Golden State. While the food has been much raved about, the bar’s selection of 12 cocktails and mocktails is not to be missed. Start with the classics (you can never go wrong with an Old Fashioned or Negroni), and end with the creamy espresso martini.
Accompanying the well-executed menu is the impeccable service led by Khai and chef Carl Jaeger, which turned what could have been a mortifying mistake into one of the best dining experiences I’ve had since emerging from a self-imposed, post-Covid lull. As I make my way out of the restaurant, a waiter cheekily bids me goodbye. “See you next week,” he grins.
Who knows? Maybe you will.
California Republic is located at 88 Amoy Street. Opening hours: Wed-Sun; 12-3pm, 5.30pm-12am.