Aromatic, savoury and satisfyingly chewy, yam abacus seeds or suan pan zi is a traditional dish that comes from the Hakka dialect group and are essentially thick discs of steamed or boiled yam and tapioca dough. Often served during the Lunar New Year (they signify wealth), they are then usually stir-fried with the likes of dried shrimps, black fungus and mushrooms.
But theyβre also a fast-disappearing heritage food, which can be attributed to the fact that theyβre time-consuming to make. Nevertheless, there are still a handful of places you can find them, and hereβs where to look.
This home business is helmed by a stay-at-home-mum, who first learned to make the dish from scratch because of her husbandβs love for it. Her smooth chewy abacus seeds ($18) are made fresh before delivery, and stir-fried with dried mushrooms, shrimps and cuttlefish, as well as minced pork.
Available via pre-orders open for selected dates only, with limited sets available. Visit her Instagram page for updates.
After closing down French patisserie Antoinette, chef-owner Pang Kok Keong dived into another type of cuisine to showcase and preserve his heritage: Hakka fare.
He currently has two Pangβs Hakka Noodles stalls, one at Sprouthub in Henderson and one in the food court of commercial building ARC 380 in Lavender, where diners can enjoy springy noodles, yong tau foo, red wine chicken and Hakka fried pork balls.
His abacus seeds ($26.88 for 500g) have to be ordered in advance and picked up at his Sprouthub stall. Made with imported Taiwanese yam, thereβs also an abacus seeds kit ($13.80) that you can order to cook at home. The kit comprises frozen abacus seeds, dried cuttlefish, dried shrimp, shredded black fungus and Chinese mushroom slices, along with cook instructions.
Order here.
As its name suggests Mei Zhen Hakka Delights located within Shunfu Mart Food Centre serves up a repertoire of Hakka fare, from turnip dumplings to soon kueh, glutinous rice and Hakka-style yong tau foo.
The yam abacus seeds here are priced are priced from $4 to $8.80, have gotten good reviews for its chewy texture, umami fragrance and crunchy shallots. You can also choose to have it served with a dollop of chilli sauce.
Shunfu Mart Food Centre is at 320 Shunfu Rd, Singapore 570320.
Plum Village Restaurant is one of the handfuls of Hakka restaurants remaining in Singapore and one of the oldest. The heritage restaurant is best known for its authentic Hakka yong tau foo, alongside dishes like pork belly with mustard greens (mei cai kou rou) and salt baked chicken.
Then, of course, youβll want to sink your teeth into its suan pan zi ($9), all handmade by the owner Lai Fak Nian and his wife. Theyβre soft and stir-fried with garlic, seasoned minced pork and chunks of yam for extra texture and flavour.
Plum Village Restaurant is at 16 Jalan Leban Singapore, Singapore 577554.
On the ground level of Bugis Street, youβll find a stretch of food stalls with various street food offerings. Amongst them is a stall doling out abacus seeds, alongside muah chee, pancakes, and tutu kueh.
Weβve personally tried this one, and you wonβt be disappointed by the generous portion of luscious morsels ($5) covered in shallots, mushrooms, and spring onions, and doused in a starchier savoury sauce thatβs both addictive and comforting.
At 3 New Bugis Street, Singapore 188867.
This home-based business was conceived in 2020 and focuses on just one dish: Abacus seeds.
At 500g per portion which is meant to serve two to three persons, it offers two versions: one with cuttlefish ($18) and one with scallops ($20). You can also add a bottle of Papaβs Chilli ($8) to your cart to add a spicy garlicky punch.
Order here.
This stall nestled within Gar Lok Eating House draws lines for its beef ball noodle soup and homemade young tau foo, but you can also snag a portion of abacus seeds that are slathered in a thick sauce and flecked with dried shrimp, mushrooms and black fungus.
Gar Lok Eating House is at 217 Syed Alwi Rd, Singapore 207776.
This article was first published in The Singapore Women’s Weekly.Β