Sinful, savoury, and so, so messy – the scissor-cut curry rice is a Hainanese special that most are familiar with. Typically the dish consists of kong bak (braised pork belly), chap chye (braised cabbage), pork chop, and curry chicken served over steamed white rice. But how did this glorious plate of goodness even come into being?
According to Mr Loo Kia Chee, second-generation owner of Loo’s Hainanese Curry Rice – a Tiong Bahru institution since 1949 – Hainanese migrants from China’s Hainan province who held cooking and domestic jobs during the British colonial rule here picked up their fusion culinary skills from their employers, the British and Peranakans. Somewhere along the line, crossovers happened, recipes mashed and Nyonya-type curries combined with Western creations like pork chop.
“Scissor-cut curry rice is the perfect representation of the different cultures of Singapore, both past and present-day,” says the 62-year-old, who took over the business from his father.
Mr Loo may run what is one of Singapore’s most famous and well-loved scissor-cut curry rice stalls, but where else can you go to get your fix? We visited eight other popular spots around the heartlands – some underrated ones, and some equally famous ones – to bring you this round-up.
What we ordered:
- kong bak (braised pork belly)
- chap chye (braised cabbage)
- pork chop
Located in a slightly less seedy part of Geylang, this old-school standalone corner stall serves up classic scissor-cut curry rice with very standard dishes. Expect the regular range of items, from braised pork belly to fried pork chop to crispy batter fried prawns.
We visited during lunchtime on a Saturday and noticed the stall pulled in an older, elderly crowd, who might appreciate curry that isn’t too overwhelming in terms of flavour, but we imagine this to be a popular spot for young supper seekers as it stays open till a quarter to four in the morning.
How much: Our order cost $4.50, which is quite average and reasonable.
Taste test: One thing we liked was how generous they were with the curry sauce, which was very thick and gooey. However, the taste of it was very bland. While most of the ingredients – curry sauce included – were cold and not as fresh as we had hoped for, the kong bak was tender, joyously fatty, and nicely braised.
669 Geylang Rd, Singapore 389596. Open daily 10am-3:45am.
The most far-flung contender on our list is this Clementi-based spot at West Coast Market Square – a hawker centre with about 60 stalls. It’s not exactly easy to get to if you don’t live in the west, but once here, you’ll be greeted by a friendly trio of elderly uncles who manage the stall together.
How much: Our standard dish cost $5.
Taste test: There weren’t a lot of dishes to choose from (we counted around 12), but the curry sauce was a nice balance of savoury and sweet (albeit a little on the cold and thin side). Portions were generous, and we liked the braised kong bak for its deep soy sauce flavour and good balance of fat and lean meat. Another ingredient we liked was the cabbage, which was soft without being overly-mushy, and had this subtle sweetness to it.
West Coast Market Square, 726 Clementi West Street 2, #01-173, Singapore 120726. Open daily (except Saturday) 11am-8pm.
Located along the busy Upper Serangoon Road is this standalone curry rice stall, which is known for its cluster of Teochew porridge joints. When we arrived on a Saturday evening about one hour past its opening time of 5pm, there was already a queue that had formed.
How much: This is one spot that doesn’t state its costs per item, so we’re not sure how they charged us for our usual dish, which included an additional order of pickled pineapple, onion, and cucumber. Pro tip: Order this to cut through the heaviness of the dish. The total damage was $7.20, making this contender the priciest on our list.
Taste test: Initially we thought the curry sauce would be a letdown since it was very thin, but were surprised at how explosive the flavours were. The ingredients were incredibly fresh as well, something we appreciated as there were many curry rice stalls that didn’t seem to pay attention to this detail during our entire experience. If you have room for dessert, there is a small area inside that sells traditional Singaporean treats like ice kachang and chendol.
1018 Upper Serangoon Rd, Singapore 534756. Open daily 5pm-2:30am.
Just a two-minute walk from Kovan MRT, this stall is located within the bustling Kovan 209 Market and Food Centre. Expect a queue here no matter the time of day, but don’t worry – it moves pretty quickly.
How much: Our order (plus a small side of broccoli) was about $6, which isn’t exactly cheap compared to other ones on our list. Overall, the portion of the dish was great, and the folks who run the stall were generous with the curry sauce topping.
Taste test: We noticed interesting options on the menu, including chicken feet and even shark meat, and prices are clearly stated on the side so you know what you’re paying. When we tucked into our dish, we were blown away by the intense curry sauce. It was perfectly seasoned, had an ideal amount of salt, and was even spicier than all other ones on our list. Ingredients like the kong bak and pork chop were great, too.
Kovan 209 Market and Food Centre, 209 Hougang Street 21, Singapore 530209. Open daily (except Friday) 8am-10pm.
With several outlets located around Singapore, Hong Seng Curry Rice is a familiar name to many. We visited the one at Redhill Food Centre, which is located close to the Redhill MRT station, and were impressed by the variety of dishes available (we counted about 20).
How much: Our order came up to $5.20.
Taste test: We found the curry sauce to be spicy, but not overly-thick and gooey like most other scissor-cut curry rice stalls. It also tasted like a lighter Indian-style curry, and we didn’t really get that hint of sweetness that’s typical of Hainanese curry. The flavours worked though.
Portions were good, but they could be more generous with the sauce – the plate was almost too bare when it was served. As for the ingredients, the cabbage had a refreshing hint of hae bee hiam (spicy dried shrimp sambal), and the pork chop was well seasoned and fresh. Another highlight: The pork belly had an unexpected but interesting herbal aftertaste.
Redhill Food Centre, 85 Redhill Lane, #01-74, Singapore 150085. Open daily (except Saturday) 10am-10:30pm.
It took us about 10 minutes to navigate our way around a maze of HDB estates to find the kopitiam where Legend Scissors Cut Curry Rice calls home. We popped by late on a Sunday, just a few hours before its 7.30pm closing time.
How much: Most items were already gone, but we still managed to order our usual kong bak, cabbage, and pork chop combination, which amounted to the average price of $4.50.
Taste test: This was the only stall that added a dollop of braising sauce to the curry sauce (the others added it only to the kong bak). We also found the curry sauce surprisingly light and subtly sweet in spite of its gooey appearance. It wasn’t that spicy either, making it good for those who have a low tolerance for chilli. The cabbage was very garlicky, and the pork chop was crisp on the outside and moist on the inside.
732 Yishun Ave 5, #01-380, Singapore 760732. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm.
Also known as No Signboard Curry Rice, this stall, which sits in a kopitiam located at the base of a Beo Crescent HDB block, is a throwback to the ’80s with tiled flooring and marble topped tables.
As a contender, Beo Crescent Curry Rice is possibly the most famous one on our list, so you can imagine the long, snaking lines we had to deal with when we visited. There were also rumours of the place closing for good on 8 September causing two-hour long snaking queues foodies desperate for one last taste, but the owners have since debunked them as false.
How much: After waiting in line for a good 30 minutes, we got our standard order ($4.50).
Taste test: We found the curry a little bland and strangely sour, and there were ginger bits that were overpowering. The crispy pork, however, was the real star of the show. It was fragrant and had a great crunch to it.
Block 40 Beo Crescent, Singapore 160040. Open daily (except Wednesday) 6.30am-2pm.
While the store originated from Beach Road, Beach Road Scissors Cut Curry Rice has opened its first-ever mall outlet at VivoCity. Located in Basement 2 of the mall, the outlet is a great way for you to indulge in this signature dish without having to brave Singapore’s humidity and heat!
Staying true to its origins, the new store’s interior oozes an old-school charm reminiscent of how traditional Singapore eateries used to look, particularly emulating the very first Beach Road Scissors Cut Curry Rice outlet. From its retro-inspired store front to its vintage wall tiles, the VivoCity outlet not only seeks to preserve the brand’s heritage but also allows fans to experience the authentic culinary taste of Singapore.
The brand has rejected numerous offers from investors looking to buy them over, worried that in doing so, the new owners might compromise on its authentic taste. Fans will have nothing to worry about with this new outlet, as the food was delicious and flavourful.
How much: The Vivocity outlet sells the plates by sets, and the closest thing we could find that matched our standard order was the Traditional Set at $8.50 (though it comes with an egg). It is definitely more expensive then if you ate at the original coffeeshop outlet, but understandably the price would have to reflect the higher rental prices for having a stall in a shopping mall.
Taste test: The curry sauce was thick, not too spicy and pleasantly sweet. It was super easy to chow down, and our only complaint is that we wished they gave more of the crispy pork. The kong bak was also fatty and sweet, which added on to the overall flavour of the dish.
Extras: As this was a media tasting, we were given the opportunity to try some ala carte add-ons like the braised tau pok and prawn ngoh hiang. The sambal ikan bilis is definitely a must-have for those who like some heat in their rice, but fair warning, since the curry is already sweet, this side dish will just add on to its sweetness!
Disclaimer: We sampled this dish during a media tasting
Topping our list is Sin Chie Toke Huan Hainanese Curry Rice (pictured). While it was the costliest stall on our list, we felt that the generous portion of the dish and the fresh and flavourful ingredients made up for the price.
In second place, we have the nearby Hougang Hainanese Curry Rice. With a curry sauce so intensely savoury and spicy, we think it deserves a spot in our top three.
Finally, Beo Crescent Curry Rice takes the third spot. We reckon we might have caught the owners on a busy day (they were juggling a massive bulk order when we visited), which might explain the slightly off-tasting curry sauce. The crispy pork, however, was jaw-droppingly good and addictive.
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