Salzburg is a pretty destination, especially the Old Town. There are no structured road grids or grand boulevards like in some major cities. By contrast, the pedestrian-friendly place is dotted with sculptures, monuments and fountains, and flanked by the imposing medieval Hohensalzburg Fortress. Grand abbeys, well-preserved baroque architecture and sprawling well-manicured gardens juxtapose with unassuming buildings in pretty pastels.
Get up early to visit the Grünmarkt in the heart of town for breakfast-on-the-go. Right in front of Kollegienkirche — also called the church of the University of Salzburg — are rows of market stalls selling delicacies such as slabs of speck (cured and lightly smoked ham) and all kinds of pretzels and pastries. Grünmarkt opens every day except Sunday. On Saturdays, it extends to another street, and locals love to congregate here to buy flowers and fruits and grab a bite.
During warmer weather, everyone enjoys the sun and buskers’ performances. Nearly every corner in Mozart’s hometown is filled with music. Around Christmas time, the vibe gets super festive as the city is festooned with sparkling lights.
Salzburg is a walkable city too. Stroll through one of the oldest and prettiest cemeteries towards St Peter’s Abbey. The premises are home to Stiftsbäckerei St. Peter (Kapitelplatz 8). The first written records of Salzburg’s oldest bakery adjacent to St Peter’s Cemetery date back to the 12th century. The monastery built a grain mill along with this bakery, which has been standing for more than 700 years. The owner today still uses the watermill at the entrance to the bakery to run the electricity and century-old wood-fired ovens. Stiftsbäckerei is most popular for its pure natural sourdough. Other classics to munch on include mini brioches and vintschgerl, a rye and wheat bread from South Tyrol. The breads run out fast, however, so get there early.
When hunger pangs strike again, it’s time for some Austrian fast food. Make your way to Getreidegasse, Salzburg’s famous shopping street in the historic Altstadt (Old Town). Getreidegasse is also Mozart’s birthplace. The composer, whose favourite food was said to be liver dumplings with sauerkraut, was born in 1756 and lived in a house at the Hagenauer square in Getreidegasse Lane for the first 17 years of his life. This building houses a highly popular museum now.
In Stockhamer Durchhaus, one of the alleys between Universitätsplatz and Getreidegasse, you will find Balkan Grill (Getreidegasse 33a), a hole-in-the-wall stand selling the original bosna — a type of bratwurst and probably the best curry hot dog you’ll ever have in this part of the world. Balkan Grill’s version contains two grilled sausages, chopped onion, a dab of mustard and a sprinkling of curry powder. Just follow the delicious aroma. Once you see a snaking queue in a narrow arcade, you’re at the right place.
Experience a slice of Austrian café culture at Café Tomaselli (Alter Markt 9) in the heart of Salzburg’s Old Town. Established in 1703, it is one of the oldest, most renowned European coffee houses. The Tomaselli family has been running this place for over 150 years. Everyone comes here to see and be seen. Among its coffee specialities are Einspänner (espresso topped with whipped cream) and Melange (espresso with steamed milk froth).
Complete your afternoon with sachertorte, invented by pastry chef Franz Sacher in 1832 and famous for its refined blend of chocolate flavours. Other must-tries include apple strudel, linzer torte (a hazelnut and raspberry jam tart), and Salzburger Nockerl, an iconic meringue dessert.
Alternatively, get a feel for Austrian beer at Augustiner Bräu (Lindhofstraße 7), which has been brewing beer since 1621. The tavern and brewery is Austria’s largest; beer drawn from wooden barrels is served in stone jugs. Order traditional and regional bites at the corridor of food stalls that resembles a traditional marketplace.
For a classic dinner, make a booking at Gasthof Goldgasse (Goldgasse 10); a 700-year-old building houses this inn and its charming restaurant. On warmer days, you can sit outside along the cobblestone street. A must-have here is the ultra-satisfying fried chicken prepared from a 1719 cookbook (on display at the restaurant). The perfectly crispy, golden corn-fed chicken pieces are served in a copper pot along with cranberry sauce, homemade sauce tartare and potato salad. Pair your meal with a fine Grüner Veltliner, a popular white
Two hours by train from Salzburg, Innsbruck welcomes you with its picturesque landscape. Typically, visitors would take a cable car to the Nordkette mountain range to soak in the scenery. Innsbruck is most famous as a ski destination and for hosting the Winter Olympics in 1964 and 1976. The alpine town, however, is worth visiting throughout the year.
The most famous symbol in the Old Town (Altstadt) is the Golden Roof (Goldenes Dachl) — a historic structure built in 1500 for Emperor Maximilian I’s wedding. Take the obligatory snapshot of this glittering landmark composed of 2,657 copper tiles, then explore the area dotted with cafés and restaurants serving Tyrolean cuisine .
If you want to check out the host of small-batch producers and sustainable local ingredients, book a small group tour with Innsbruck Food Tour, founded by journalist and documentary producer Kurt Reindl, also known as the “ambassador of Tyrolean cuisine”.
One of the stops on his tour is Bäckerei Kröll (Riesengasse 9), a century-old family-run bakery now managed by its next-gen owner. This long-standing bakery still produces traditional types of bread linked to the church calendar. Freshly baked goods range from sourdough loaves and crisp flat breads to celebratory buns.
Speck is a must-try delicacy in Innsbruck. One of the oldest Tyrolean specialities, it has been produced using traditional methods since the 1500s. Typically, this cured ham, made using the hind leg of the pig, is dry-salted and seasoned, then cold-smoked over beech wood and dried and matured in the crisp alpine air.
A good place to sample this is at Speckeria (Hofgasse 3a), a small eatery shop specialising in speck, Alpine cheese and other reminders of Tyrol. Order the Tyrolean Marend, usually enjoyed as a snack between meals in the late afternoon or early evening. It consists of a platter of thinly sliced, dry-cured and smoked meats with cheese partnered with schnapps, beer or wine. Once you’re done, consider buying some vacuum-sealed speck to take home.
Reindl also recommends Tiroler Edle (Seilergasse 13) artisanal chocolate by master chocolatier Hans-Jorg Haag as a unique edible gift. The special milk used for the chocolate comes from Tyrolean Greys, a breed of cattle that has grazed the mountains of Tyrol for more than 3,000 years. Today, they are bred only by a select group of devoted mountain farmers. The berries, fruits, nuts, and brandies used in the chocolate come from local producers. The cacao is carefully selected based on a thorough assessment of the source of origin, sustainable agriculture, human working conditions, and adequate pay for the cacao farmers.
For a hearty lunch or dinner, head to Restaurant Hotel Weisses Rössl (Kiebachgasse 8). This establishment rustles up traditional Tyrolean cuisine, including gröstl, essentially a potato, onion, and bacon fry-up topped with a fried egg dish, which truly hits the spot after skiing or snowboarding. Besides its robust dishes, the venue also boasts a wine bar in its medieval vaulted cellar that is filled with fine Austrian wines.
If you want to experience a tasting of Austrian wines, head to INVINUM wine bar (Innrain 1) in the Old Town. Here, you can pay for a sampling of one sparkling wine, three whites, and three reds. If you like, request to pair them with cold cuts and cheese.
In winter there’s of course the beautiful Christmas markets that draw loads of visitors. Most Christmas markets start from 15 November. In his year-end tours, Reindl introduces some festive treats, including a visit to a stand in the Old Town that sells the best kiachl mit kraut (an Austrian croissant of sorts, served with sauerkraut or cranberries). “And we will of course drink glühwein (mulled wine). These are the must-haves when visiting Innsbruck in winter,” he shares. After warming your bellies with glühwein and pastries, remember to bring back plenty of edible souvenirs from this scintillating alpine town.
This article was originally published in The Peak.