Since the pandemic hit many Parisians have ventured out to greener pastures. Quite literally, that is, choosing to head outside of the city with more space and greenery, and enjoying a weekend of relaxing and recharging in the countryside.
Enter Biarritz, a charming coastal town favoured for lavish weekend beach trips. Back in 1915, Coco Chanel was introduced to Biarritz and fell instantly in love. She even chose the place for her very first couture shop, located in a villa directly across from the infamous Hôtel du Palais.
Apart from the glitz, Biarritz also attracts many surfers due to its picturesque beaches — with its seemingly endless horizons — and therefore has a free-spirited, relaxed side to it as well. Regardless of your interests — be it replacing at the spa, shopping, enjoying the best Basque cuisine, exploring nature and visiting museums —there’s plenty to do.
If you’re coming in from Paris, we recommend taking the four-hour train down that will allow you to get into a quieter headspace swiftly, and it’s quite the scenic route too. A pro tip before you go: book a car so you can discover not just Biarritz but also the idyllic environment.
24/7 in Biarritz? Allow us to guide you.
Anne Israel, founder of boutique hotel Villa Magnan in Biarritz, was ahead of the curve. After living and working in Paris as a renowned set designer for many years, she moved to Biarritz with her family over a decade ago. Two years back, she found this abandoned estate, now called Villa Magnan, built in the 1920s and 1930s and previously inhabited by Spanish aristocrats.
She’s since turned that wild plot of land into a series of guesthouses, each more eclectically designed than the last. Apart from the cool, bohemian guests we spied on during our stay, Villa Magnan is also home to a pony, donkey and an albino peacock which you can catch just casually grazing the fields in the mornings, making the villa grounds feel like stepping into a world of wonder.
There’s no WiFi, but trust us, you can do without it for a couple of days.
11 Rue de Mouriscot, 64200 Biarritz, France
Apart from being a delightful and enchanting place to spend a few nights, Anne Israel also has a vintage shop at Villa Magnan. The racks are overflowing with vintage gems from Yves Saint Laurent to Prada and smaller cult labels such as Anne’s daughter’s brand Umlaut.
All the vintage is fairly priced because first and foremost Anne does this for the love of sourcing and sharing. If you’re a fashion fan, you’ll probably do your best shopping in the entire area here. Four vintage dresses here set us back about 160 euros, so it helps to be friendly with the owner!
In downtown Biarritz, there are luxury stores such as the iconic Chanel boutique as well as smaller stores which offer a more preppy, Scandi style of sorts. If you don’t mind driving out a little further to the quaint town of Cibour visit Dominika Vintage. This is the namesake shop of Dominika, who’s also the loveliest host at Villa Magnan. She curates the beautiful breakfast table every morning with Anne, but also hunts for special vintage finds that have a bit of a folkloric touch to them. It’s Dominika’s way to bring you ‘on her fantasy travels in time’.
18 av Gabriel Delaunay, Ciboure, France
Back at Villa Magnan’s premises they also organize blissful dinners from time to time in a greenhouse by a chef in residence. Book your table in advance via their Instagram.
11 Rue de Mouriscot, 64200 Biarritz, France
A stone’s throw away from Biarritz there’s the charming little Basque village of Guéthary, also fabled for its ‘big wave surfing’. At restaurant Hétéroclito, the food is rather simple (nonetheless very good, do try the grilled octopus that’s freshly caught) and so is the setting. Yet that’s what adds to the charm of this neighbourhood eatery. You’ll be surrounded by many locals and the view over the ocean is nothing short of breathtaking. Many people stroll along the coastline when the sun is about to set and during the day this is a favoured spot for surfers.
Chem. de la Plage, 64210 Guéthary, France
In the heart of the French Basque country, sandwiched between the city and the mountains, you’ll find La Ferme Ostalapia. Situated along the pilgrimage route of Santiago de Compostella, this rustic and cosy bed & breakfast also has a restaurant where you can enjoy traditional Basque dishes while overlooking the garden with a panoramic view of the lush landscape. They do book up rather quickly so make sure to secure your lunch or dinner spot a week before.
2621 Chem. d’Ostalapea, 64210 Ahetze, France
To keep in the spirit of family-owned businesses like Villa Magnan that have so much soul to them, visit luxury spa Alaena. A haven of peace with the kindest staff tending to your every need, what makes this one extra special is the story behind it. The spa is run by three sisters who all grew up in Biarritz with a mother who is a dermatologist and a father who is a plastic surgeon. Inspired by the family trade, the sisters put their expertise and love for the surrounding nature into Alaena Spa.
They offer special treatments, such as a relaxing bath, inspired by the Japanese bath ritual, followed by a massage or facial with advanced techniques. Not to mention, they have their own in-house organic skincare line with ingredients sourced from the region.
20 Av. du Sabaou, 64200 Biarritz, France
Biarritz is close to Spain, but the Basque country of Spain versus France (including the culture) really does have a taste of its own. If you’re into road trips, go cross the border and visit Chillida-Leku, a mostly outdoor museum dedicated to the legacy of the acclaimed Spanish sculptor Eduardo Chillida. In the beautifully laid-out park, with a restored farmhouse and an organic café, you’ll discover the most comprehensive open-air body of works by the artist. Afterwards, you could drive by San Sebastian or the old town of Hondarribia on the way back.
Jauregi Bailara, 66, 20120 Hernani, Gipuzkoa, Spain
Dining at Carøe in Biarritz was a real feast. Scrumptious dishes, most of them centred around fish, were served – from the delicate neck of a freshly caught tuna to coquilles in sabayon miso. As you may have guessed by the ø in the name, Carøe references a Nordic fish bar, though there’s also a local Basque twist to it with the fish right out of the ocean a few blocks from the street this place is on.
51 Rue Gambetta, 64200 Biarritz, France
If you are into WiFi and hotel merch-bathrobes, then you might be better off booking a stay at the infamous Hôtel du Palais Biarritz. Surely, the deluxe hotel will have all your needs met. Founded in 1854, this landmark of Biarritz is the former imperial residence of Napoleon III and Empress Eugenie. And if you’re not a hotel guest you can still go for a little stroll in the gorgeous garden and have lunch, coffee and pastries at the terrace with a view on the Atlantic Ocean.
1 Av. de l’Impératrice, 64200 Biarritz, France