A first look at Uniqlo U’s 2021 Spring/Summer collection — and the pieces to cop

“We work very meticulously on colours with a lot of passion and love. There are many ways of creating colours, from neutrals to faded shades to brights. For example, beige is the ultimate refined neutral, and this season we created seven perfect shades. Overall, we wanted this refreshing feeling of connecting with nature and of lightness after the heaviness of winter. So, we have dusty pinks, earthy tones, and off-whites mixed with crisp greens, bright citrus, kumquat, mandarin, lavender, blues, indigo denim.”

“Every season, we do a lot of research and brainstorming. The general mood comes from this process, and we get our first inspirations for fabrics and silhouettes when we begin to do stylings. Sometimes a vintage piece will inspire fabric or colour, for instance. We work very closely with fabric suppliers like Toray Industries to develop innovative materials. We begin creating a color card from things like artist paintings and photographs. Every detail is carefully considered, from trim to stitches. Simplicity, practicality, and thoughtfulness go into every design.”

“A very clean silhouette, with versatile pieces that can live alone without layering. A sense of freedom, with a lighter, airy feel and touches of fluidity. Fabric developments were focused on easy-care materials, with light and breathable cotton nylons that are very comfortable, and a nice matte cotton-poly jersey. We were also inspired by vintage viscose to create items that are elegant yet easy to wear, very simple and practical, again with a touch of fluidity. There are fabrics with a hint of shine, and for knits, we continued with seamless 3D construction and opted for summery yarns like high-twist cotton.”

“More than ever, there is a need for long-lasting, quality pieces that are versatile. With everything changing in the world, we focused strictly on the essential items, with an emphasis on practicality and utility. This time I had in mind a simple men’s wardrobe, with archetypal items that work well together with those from previous collections.

For silhouettes, now that the oversized look, which had previously felt new and directional, has become more mainstream, we have pared it down to be more of a loose, sophisticated fit that moves past

street culture to something more relevant, timeless. As far as fabrics, where we had promoted functionality before, this season we went for simple materials, refining them and considering how well they might age in many years’ time.”

“We were asked to work on a couple of kids’ styles, which was exciting! We took staples from Uniqlo U and adapted them to kids’ wear. Sometimes we adapted materials and colours. So it was not starting from scratch for kids, but rather taking something existing and scaling it down, basically.

It was a pleasure to see the samples we had designed for adults coming back in kids’ sizes (laugh). Every detail became bigger and it was very cute. And it’s also very satisfying to see that generally when we decide to adapt an adult’s pattern from the Uniqlo U collection to a child’s, it works most of the time. It’s relevant for kids too.”

“In 2014, UNIQLO contacted us at LEMAIRE for a collaboration. It was successful and ran for two seasons. We realized that we shared the same values and aesthetic, so we talked about creating a long-term relationship and establishing an R&D Center in Paris.

From the beginning, it was clear this would be different from the original collaboration. We would be designing for, and not just with, UNIQLO. We envisioned an extension of the mainline, very much in the concept of LifeWear and within the total UNIQLO world. Our overarching design principle was to keep it simple. From this, Uniqlo U was born.

Today we have the same goals as UNIQLO. Quality items, simple design, something for everyone. The difference is that Uniqlo U is designing basics, but with a point of view. We make elevated essentials. We are constantly refining and reconsidering what is truly necessary, which makes a piece essential. Quality, functionality, movability, durability, solidity, comfort, and timelessness.

My definition of essential is a piece you need as much as you want. Desire + necessity. That’s Uniqlo U.”

The full collection will be available online at UNIQLO.com and at the Orchard Central Global Flagship store from January 22, 2021. Selected items are available at selected stores. Find out more about the collection here.

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