PHOTOGRAPHY Calvin Tan/Flame Production Studio ART DIRECTION & STYLING Diane Ng Majestic Restaurant 31-37 Bukit Pasoh Road (6511-4718)
Start the slideshow for buying tips from Yong Bing Ngen, owner-chef of Jing and Majestic Restaurant.
WHERE TO SHOP FOR DRIED GOODS
Red Dragon Marine Product Centre​
#03-64 Albert Centre, 270 Queen Street, tel: 6337-3828
Neatly displayed dried goods like sea cucumber, fish maw and oysters, and air-dried meats like chicken sausages and waxed duck. Also has pre-packed ones.
Chong Hoe Chinese Medical Store
71 Serangoon Gardens Way, tel: 6288-4652
It’s been around for over four decades, and is reputed as a one-stop shop for not just Chinese herbs, but an impressive array of dried marine goodies.
This story was first published in Simply Her January 2009.
DRIED MUSHROOMS
Dried shiitake mushrooms come from China and Japan. Both are equally popular, but connoisseurs swear by the Japanese ones, which are superior in terms of smell, taste and flavour – one whiff and you’re hit by a deep, earthy aroma. Japanese dried mushrooms are pricier, costing about $120 a kg compared to the Chinese ones, which are about $30 a kg.
However, the huge price difference doesn’t mean Chinese mushrooms are inferior – they’re just not as intense or earthy. So if you prefer a stronger flavour in soups, use Japanese mushrooms, which are smaller but heavier, and tend to be thicker and have a better texture. For braising, use Chinese ones as they’re bigger.
The vacuum-packed ones are usually labelled, or you can ask the shopkeeper where they’re from. you can also look at the mushroom stalks: those from Japan are uneven at the tip as they are hand-plucked, whereas those from china are even and flat at the tip as they are usually cut from the stem.
DRIED SCALLOPS
Like dried mushrooms, the popular types come from Japan and China. Chinese ones are a pale yellow shade and the size of tiny pebbles. Japanese dried scallops are a deep caramel yellow, and are bigger (the size of 20 cent coins) and heavier; they also have an intense smell and taste. Choose the bigger ones that have a hint of an ocean scent. Prices start at $30 for the Chinese ones and $120 for the Japanese ones.
DRIED OYSTERS
They should smell pleasantly briny, not fishy. Quality dried oysters have tinges of green and grey, a nice sheen and don’t look dull. Avoid ones that are a deep brown, or that look too shrivelled or dry. If you’re using oysters in braised vegetables, use the half-dried ones, which are soft and moist instead of dry and powdery. Expect to pay $20 to $50 a kg.
WAXED DUCK
It can come in the form of a drumstick or a whole duck preserved in salt and Chinese rice wine (about $5 a drumstick or $20 for the whole duck). It must look and feel meaty and firm. There should be a nice gloss and no dark spots on the meat. For hygiene purposes, most come vacuum-packed these days, though you can get air-dried ones from supermarkets and dried goods stores about a month before Chinese New Year.
CHINESE SAUSAGES
Popular varieties include the reddish-brown pork sausages and the blackish ones that are made from duck liver. In China and Hong Kong, Chinese sausages are traditionally marinated in salt, spices and wines, and dried by strong gusts of dry winds during the winter months. In Singapore, the sausages are fan-dried.
Chicken sausages are a darker red and leaner than pork sausages. When choosing dried sausages ($15-$25 a kg), avoid those with a dull colour and pick those with a deep and even shade, and that don’t look too “wrinkly”. The sausages should also have a pleasant whiff of spices, so they’re fragrant but not overpowering.
BLACK MOSS
The thing about this variety of dried seaweed is that even the fake ones look like the real McCoy. So your best bet is to buy from a reputable dried goods store or medical hall. When soaked in water, real black moss (from $10 for 100g) turns the water a dark-green shade, not jet-black. And when you squeeze the water out of a mass of black moss in your hand, it will shrink in size; when you release it, it gradually goes back to its original size.
FISH MAW
The gas bladder of a large fish, there are two types available, male and female fish maw, which can come fried (light, puffy and resembling dried pork rind) or dried (hard, dark golden pieces).
Whether fried or dried, it should come with a nice golden sheen, with few “dirt spots” in the folds and crevices. The fried ones should also smell fresh and not reek of rancid oil.
Size doesn’t matter and the quality doesn’t depend on the type of fish used. If you like a firmer and stickier texture with more flavour, ask for male fish maw. Female fish maw, on the other hand, melts more easily in the mouth, and is usually half the price. Prices start at $20 a kg and can go up to a few thousand dollars for premium golden yellow fish maw.
ABALONE
There are fresh live abalone, dried ones, and the canned variety, which is the most popular. When it comes to canned abalone, the brand is secondary; what matters is the country of origin.
Canned abalone comes from Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and Mexico, with the latter being the best and most expensive ($90-$100 a can) given that they are wild abalone hauled from the sea. They are more flavourful, softer and bouncier in texture. Those from Australia, New Zealand and Taiwan are mostly farm-bred and cost between $45 and $50 a can.
You can eat abalone out of the can or braise it for half an hour. In contrast, dried abalone takes up to 12 hours to cook while live ones are generally used for sashimi.
SEA CUCUMBER
When buying the dried version, the thicker, the better, as it gives the delicacy more bite. The length isn’t important, but make sure it’s a deep colour. It should also be heavy for its size and not feel too hollow, and be completely dry.
For pre-soaked ones, choose those that are firm. Again, size doesn’t matter as they could have been soaked for longer to make them appear bigger.
To soften the dried version, place in cold water and soak for at least 12 hours. Cook over low heat for one to two hours, adding more water if necessary (there should always be enough water to cover the cucumber). Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature, then drain. Prices start at $100 a kg and can go up to $800 a kg for premium grades.