The Trend Edit: "Sweet Girl Spring", bralettes and panniers at Paris Fashion Week S/S '20
S/S '20 Trend Edit
Take a deep breath everyone – the Spring/Summer ‘20 fashion month has finally come to an end, with Paris taking the final curtsy to conclude the glamorous, high-octane month-long affair.
From Virginie Viard’s first ever ready-to-wear collection at Chanel as the new creative director to Stella McCartney and Dior’s climate-focused collections, there were many buzzed-about talking points worth discussing when it came to this particular fashion week. Also worth discussing? The many trends we’ve spotted, that run the gamut of whimsical and playful (consider 18th-century panniers) to romantic (lace, ruffles and white eyelets).
Read ahead for our report on the trends Parisian designers are propositioning for the new season.
When Katie Holmes wore an oatmeal-hued cashmere bra and matching cardigan while hailing a cab in New York, it instantly became viral (the bra, not the act of hailing a cab itself) and is now – deemed by us – as one of the most important fashion happenings of the year. It seems as though the bralette’s moment in the sun is not about to expire, but in fact is seeing some serious ripple effects across the industry as it rears its head on the runways of Paris Fashion Week.
Whether you team them under blazers left unbuttoned for a sleek urban look or by themselves with a chic high-rise skirt, we suggest finding a way to integrate this It-accessory into your spring closet pronto.
All eyes will be on the hips this coming season, with designers at Thom Browne, Loewe and Comme des Garcon suggesting a newfound appreciation for 18th century panniers. Panniers, or rather, the far-from-snug hoops that are worn under clothing to give dresses a bell shape, saw the form of many different variations during the S/S ‘20 presentations.
Thom Browne had literal geometric structures worn over trousers to give modern coats an Aristocratic feel, while Loewe brought on a contemporary approach with pastel coloured lace numbers with extended rectangular hips. Comme des Garcon had multiple looks that play on proportion; most of which featured structures that enhanced the hip sideways.
Sacai played with layering and wispy gossamer fabric to create a series of dresses that swayed beautifully with the wind, and Valentino had an instantly memorable voluminous, diaphanous violet number that rustled the floor.
Giambattista Valli showed a range of dreamy dresses crafted from lace, Miu Miu played their hand with peplum crop tops, smock silhouettes and floral embellishments, while Chanel, under the creative leadership of Virginie Viard, had a couple of pastel blush tiered skirts and sheer lace dresses.
Despite being the last show of S/S ’20, Louis Vuitton also had a big part to play in this sweet fantasy. Nicolas Ghesquiere had his watch set to the Belle Époque (french for “beautiful epoch”) of Paris — a time when arts and culture flourished. References to the era included puff sleeves, painterly flowers and sprightly greens and pinks — all of which this outfit encapsulates.
Hot tip for springtime layering – aka, it’s too hot outside to actually layer, but you want to anyway: Consider a vest. For a start, it adds dimension to your outfit without you having to try too hard. And second, S/S ‘20’s offerings offer a tonne of inspiration.
In fact, next season’s vests aren’t your typical waistcoat either; they’re seen in lavish designs that exude an exuberant spirit. Isabel Marant’s cropped vests sported fanciful paisley prints and were layered over bright, festival-ready Southwestern-inspired pieces.
Saint Laurent looked to sharp satin vests that were thrown over bohemian maxi dresses encrusted with gold and silver sequins, and at Celine we saw a sequinned number edged with what looks like faux fur, worn over a nonchalant cream blouse, patchwork denim and slouchy tan cowboy knee-highs.