Popular skincare myths, debunked

MYTH

How often you should wash depends on your skin type. Dermatologist Calvin Chan of Calvin Chan Aesthetics & Surgery says that while those with oily skin should wash twice a day, dry and sensitive skin only needs to be washed once, at night.

But Leona Low, Training Director of Clarins Asia Pacific, advocates the twice-a-day routine because skin continues to produce a small amount of sebum at night when you’re asleep. And oil from your hair can easily be transferred to your face as well.

On the other hand, Doreen Chia, Brand General Manager of AmorePacific which handles Korean beauty brands such as Sulwhasoo and Hera, adds, “Dry skin does not secrete much oil while you sleep so you can simply wash your face with warm water in the morning.”

One thing to note is that the older you are, the less you want to wash your face so as to retain as much natural oil for the skin to look youthful and supple.

MYTH

According to Dr Chan, toner is “not crucial in a skincare routine”, although Clarins’ Ms Low recommends it as a double-cleansing step after makeup remover (to balance the skin’s pH levels and reduce the appearance of pores) but she concedes it’s not a “must”. For Skin Inc founder Sabrina Tan, it’s not necessary if you already have skincare products like an exfoliator to remove dead skin cells and a moisturiser to keep your skin hydrated. Sabina Munshi, founder of local skincare brand Baréskin agrees: “A toner is not essential. In fact using the wrong toner can sometimes ruin your skincare regimen. Our advice? Skip this step and focus on the rest.

MYTH

Truth be told, you cannot just rely on anti-ageing products and expect to look younger and free from wrinkles. While creams and serums play a part, Dr Chan notes that they work in combination with medical-grade treatments such as Ultherapy and Thermage FLX (which help to boost collagen production)to accelerate the effects. Most aesthetic treatments focus on boosting collagen, which is the protein in the skin that makes it tight and firm.

If you do invest in anti-ageing skincare, look closely at the ingredients. To get rid of wrinkles and fine lines, retinol is touted by many skincare experts and researchers as one of the most effective anti-aging ingredients available.
But whatever product you choose, the fact is that older skin requires more work to maintain.

Which is why Dr Chan stresses the importance of combining all three elements – anti-ageing creams, dermatology treatments and good lifestyle habits.

MYTH

“Oily or combination skin means that the skin’s oil to water ratio is off balance,” says Ms Low. Interestingly, many people assume facial oils clog pores and exacerbate oily skin thus causing breakouts, but Jerome Tan, Estée Lauder’s chief make up artist, refutes this.

Not only do facial oils help to replenish your skin’s natural oils, he says, it also keeps oil levels balanced to prevent breakouts.

Ms Munshi, however, cautions that if you have oily or combination skin, the oil has to be non-comedogenic (it does not clog pores).

FACT

There are different theories online, but all the veterans interviewed agree that sunblock should be applied as the last step of skincare, after moisturiser.

Sunscreen acts as a shield for the skin, but it’s also important to let your moisturiser absorb fully (a general rule of thumb is to wait one minute before applying a different product) before applying sunscreen.

MYTH

“The reality is that there is no gender in skincare,” says Ms Tan. She adds that differentiation between men and women skincare is simply a marketing strategy so ideally, either gender should shop by skin type and skincare needs.

As men are known to be more complacent when it comes to looking after their skin, it’s best to keep to a simple and fuss-free everyday routine. Moisturiser and sunscreen are the best building blocks (many brands have built-in moisturisers with sunscreen) – stick to that and build up from there.

MYTH

It’s not that they don’t work but more the technique that counts. Ms Munshi, a big advocate of facial rolling says that it must be done consistently. She says: “If done right, the rolling motion encourages lymphatic drainage, tones the skin, helps products penetrate better, reduces puffiness and water retention.”

Another handy tip from Ms Munshi is that you should keep your roller in the fridge to accelerate its efficacy. “It’s absolutely therapeutic!” she says.

This article was first published in The Business Times.

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