The house of Hermès does not rush. For illustration: It took 85 years following its founding as a saddlery atelier in 1837 to branch out into handbags – as natural and easy as the progression might seem. And it was not till 1967 that it introduced women’s ready-to-wear to accompany the luxurious, playful-meets-practical (and in-demand) accessories that it had by then long become synonymous with. So while it debuted its beauty metier two years ago – a move that has been as measured as the ones before – it was not until this past January that it announced its creative director: Gregoris Pyrpylis.
Hailing from Greece, the handsome 35-year-old is somewhat of an insider secret. His CV boasts stints at an eclectic range of industry authorities: MAC (where he got his start in 2006); Tom Pecheux (he was the makeup guru’s first assistant); Bioderma (where he became the world’s first makeup artist to represent a dermatological brand); and Shiseido (he was appointed its ambassador in Europe).
The recently released Plein Air complexion balm collection is inspired by the freshness of being outdoors – a nod perhaps to Hermes’ sporty equestrian heritage.
Judging from his Instagram account (@gregoris – it’s blue-ticked), he’s a favourite of celebrity beauties who move and dress to their own beat: Alexa Chung, Laetitia Casta, the French actress Adele Exarchopoulos to name a few. In short, he’s a bit of a dark horse in the glam-obsessed, showgirl world of beauty – apt for Hermes, if you think about it.
Since entering the cosmetics arena, starting with the refillable, lacquer-tubed Rouge Hermes lipstick line in 2020, the Maison has held fast to its independent-minded, craft-and-function-focused ethos. Only three other product categories have been revealed: blush, nail polish and a tinted complexion balm named Plein Air, which launched in stores here last month.
Each one has been the result of a collaborative effort between all of the brand’s creative heads: artistic director Pierre-Alexis Dumas, who oversees all the metiers; Pierre Hardy – creative director of shoes and jewellery – is in charge of designing the packaging; and house perfumer Christine Nagel makes sure that everything smells good.
Now with Pyrpylis – whose makeup mantra is to elevate, not transform, one’s individual beauty – in the fold, what should one know and expect? He tells us in his own words.
What has it been like settling into Hermès since your appointment?
“It’s very inspiring. Of course, it’s a house with 185 years of history, so I cannot learn everything in three or four months, but that’s also the interesting part. Every day I go to work, I meet someone new, hear a story, read an article or discover something that could spark my creative process.”
What of the house’s archives and heritage has stood out to you the most?
“The silk metier is a universe where one can really find some fun. The other day, I looked at one of its designs that features four horses sitting inside a carriage in place of people. One of the horses even had beautifully styled hair – it was so fun to look at!”
How do you connect something like silk scarves with makeup?
“I like the association of a scarf to an accessory that lightens up a look (visually and emotionally) with a hint of colour. Makeup is similar: You could wear it as an accessory to brighten your day.”
The beauty metier works as a collective with Pierre-Alexis Dumas, Pierre Hardy and Christine Nagel all involved in the creative process. How are you finding this collaborative approach?
“I don’t think I would have joined Hermès if I had to take over the métier on my own. What attracted me to this role was knowing that I would be part of an artistic collective.”
Distil the essence of Hermès Beauty in your own words.
“What is extremely essential for Hermès – and my approach to beauty – is that what we offer is complete and necessary. I don’t see us coming out with five different foundations or eight different lipstick formulas. We want to keep to the DNA of the entire house, and at Hermès, we always want to create objects that are driven by their function.
We won’t come up with it if there’s no reason for an object to be there. That’s why, for example, you don’t see a brush with our Plein Air complexion balm. There’s no need for one as we found that the best way to apply the formula is by hand. We could have come up with a brush to make more profit, but this is not what drives the house of Hermès. Here, we say that beauty arises from use and function, and beautiful objects are also functional and useful.”
At the same time, fun is an intrinsic quality of Hermès. So how do you see the beauty métier marrying fun with function?
“Through texture and colours! If Hermès cannot talk about colour, who else can? There are more than 75,000 colour references in our silk métier and more than 900 in the leather métier – the palette is enormous, and every day at work, I am learning about a new colour and its name…
Also, at Hermès Beauty, we don’t talk about or come up with looks because we don’t like to impose on our clients how they should do their makeup. Instead, we want to offer them the tools and let them take ownership and use them in their own way to express who they are and how they feel. Therein lies the fun too. Wherever there are no rules, there’s fun.”
Compared to most of the cosmetics industry that moves at a fast pace, Hermès Beauty seems to have a slower, more careful approach. Could you comment on this?
“We like to create at our own pace and look for the best ingredients and materials. It’s not because we want to be different, but because that’s how we do things. So, for example, we worked with a Japanese laboratory to create the Plein Air formula because that was where we found this texture with an ethereal lightness and sensorial experience.”
Is it safe to say that Hermès Beauty is not concerned with trends?
“We have a more timeless approach, but we’re also very connected to the times. We look for inspiration in the past, but are always seeking innovation. It’s a very fine line, but I think the result is obvious once you achieve it.”
Beauty is the most approachable of Hermès‘ many categories and can be said to reach a broader audience in comparison to the brand’s other métiers. Does that create any pressure for you?
“I feel happier in a way. There’s a Greek word filoxenia, which means being welcoming. It’s a value passed on by my family and has been in my DNA since I was a kid. I see Hermès Beauty as an invitation for people who want to be introduced to and experience the world of Hermès.”
This article was first published in Female.