IN TOKYO – Despite the cold, pouring rain and an out-of-the-way location, the Spring Summer 2015 show for emerging Japanese brand Lamarck was packed with media, celebs and fans; the chandeliers of mock 19th century Italianate ballroom and glasshouse it was held in reflected the flashing bulbs of professional photographers, press and a mass of fashion students standing at the back.

Launched in 2011, the same year designer Shinsuke Morishita graduated from Bunka (Japan’s top fashion school) and named after the naturalist Jean-Baptiste Lamarck, this emerging fashion label is definitely one to watch.

lamarck ss15 tokyo fashion week DECOR 1Opening looks from the Lamarck SS15 show. Images: Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tokyo

Morishita San’s ability to combine his conceptual ideas ‒ the brand’s description includes the words “Progressive Evolution” and describes the clothes as enabling the wearer to “discover something new in yourself in the stream of drastically changing era and matters” after all – with well cut, beautifully detailed, wearable clothes puts him into a rarified group of young designers.

Although the SS15 collection was entitled “Coexistence” and described as “… focusing on nature; we layer, merge and integrate [it] in the context of items or styling” (whatever that means) what it offered were a series of extremely wearable pieces.

lamarck ss15 tokyo fashion week DECOR 2Opening looks from the Lamarck SS15 show. Images: Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tokyo

A step up from the slightly more ornate and slightly more “street” collection for Autumn Winter 2014-15, this one is very downtown chic with great separates – including some brilliantly cut trousers – a good range of colours from soft neutrals to brighter blues and touches of red, pink, purple, gold and emerald green as accents in the brand’s signature embroidery.

lamarck ss15 tokyo fashion week DECOR 3Opening looks from the Lamarck SS15 show. Images: Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tokyo

The shapes hit the right spot of being on-trend but a little timeless with straight-leg pants, midi skirts, mini skirts, shift dresses, city shorts, sweatshirts and a fabulous classic Redingote coat.

lamarck ss15 tokyo fashion week DECOR 4Opening looks from the Lamarck SS15 show. Images: Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tokyo

Tying them all together was the use of fine, detailed finishing; from the aforementioned embroidery that was used not only as an embellishment but also to define a woman’s shape (particularly well done in the coat), but also in the overstitching on flap pockets, skirt hems and collar edges.

lamarck ss15 tokyo fashion week DECOR 6Opening looks from the Lamarck SS15 show. Images: Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tokyo

Also quite lovely was the use of lace as edged hems on tops and skirts, and a kind of distressed, embossed jacquard with sheer sections allowing a quick view of a bit of skin. This worked best on the “jeans” in the opening looks.

Adding to the overall flair of the show were the great accessories. The fantastic flatform black and white lace-up brogues looked casual enough for weekend wear and classy enough for the office – these were from a new Korean brand, Yuul Yie ‒ and the awesome all-one-colour sunglasses came from Japanese brand USH by Yuichi Toyama.

WATCH THE LAMARCK SS15 RUNWAY SHOW AT MBFWT:

While there were a few disparate pieces – the blue and green check shirt comes to mind – basically everything in this collection will suit someone, and will be perfectly compatible with your existing wardrobe; Lamarck is “classic with a twist” which is why it’s so refreshing.

With a number of other emerging Japanese labels recently being snapped up and “promoted” to showing in Paris like Anrealage and Christian Dada (and naturally gaining a coresponding hike in prices, of course) I wouldn’t be surprised to learn that Lamarck is the next brand to go. So, the next time you’re in Tokyo grab yourself a piece while you can still afford it!

For more information about Lamarck, go to lamarck-tokyo.com. Lamarck is located at Shibuya Cultural Center Owada 10F Atelier G, 23-21 Sakuragaoka-cho, shibuya-ku, Tokyo, 150-0031, Japan.  Email: info@lamarck-tokyo.com. You can also shop Lamarck online at Candy Fake Tokyo at www.faketokyo.com/shop. For overseas buyers (like us in Singapore)  you need to use this form to order from the online store: www.faketokyo.com/overseas.