Everything you need to know about watch straps

This family-owned, Paris-based strap specialist offers a staggering number of options for your ideal strap. Aside from the standard calf and alligator skin, Atelier du Bracelet Parisien has leathers made from sea bass, pangolin, toad, and countless other exotic creatures. You get to choose the material and colour of the lining, the amount of padding, the shape of the end of the strap and whether you want it stitched by hand or machine.

On our own shores is Hughes Low, who learnt leatherworking at Ecole Gregoire-Ferrandi, a Parisian training school whose alumni include Hermes artisans. Low makes various small leather goods, from cardholders to bi-fold wallets, but watch straps are his bestsellers. And that’s because he takes no shortcuts.

There are no paper or cardboard fillers, just 100 per cent leather. The thread he uses is spun by Fil au Chinois, while most of his leather comes from a local tannery – both of which supply to Hermes.

If you’re not exactly sure of what you want, play around with the strap configurator on Camille Fournet’s luscious website. Choose from 16 types of leather in 57 colours, customise the width and even dictate the shape of the holes, then place your order.

All orders, whether bespoke or ready-made in design, are carried out at the brand’s leather goods workshops in Tergnier in Northern France, though its very first workshop was established on the rue Vauban in Saint-Quentin, Picardy, in 1945.

Fancy a little novelty for your everyday watch? The Strap Smith has got you covered with a range of unusual themes that use materials from vintage backpacks, footballs and even sports shoes, to name a few.

The man behind it, Rob Montana, is the son of a leathercraft instructor and also has a passion for vintage straps (check out those he made using ammo pouches from World War I). Jay Leno counts as one of his many celebrity fans. Custom orders are also available, and all straps are hand-stitched.

The Nato strap made its first appearance in 1973 and was created by the British Ministry of Defence. Those straps were characterised by 20mm wide double nylon straps with spring bars, in a colour called Admiralty Grey, though their popularity led to the adoption of more colours and a slimmer 18mm version. They are often confused with Zulu straps, which differ from Nato ones by having only one long strap made of thicker nylon. 

OMEGA SEAMASTER DIVER 300M “COMMANDER’S WATCH”

The perforations in these leather straps – usually three large ones under the lugs on either side, though variations have seen numerous holes across the entire strap – were inspired by old racing gloves and car parts that had holes drilled into them to minimise weight and increase speed. While it’s not necessary in a watch strap, the added ventilation makes them ideal summer accessories.

CHOPARD GRAND PRIX DE MONACO HISTORIQUE 2016 RACE EDITION

It may not have as long a history as the Oyster or Jubilee bracelets, but Rolex’s President band, introduced in 1956, is the brand’s most luxurious – and is used only for its highest-end Day-Date models. It combines the Oyster’s three-link design with the Jubilee’s semi-circular links, and is only ever crafted in gold or platinum and paired with the Rolex Crownclasp for a smooth, comfortable fit.

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Now purely used as decoration, the rivets located below the lugs on pilot’s watches were originally meant to keep the straps together, particularly during the turbulence of air combat. First popularised by the German air force during World War II, this historical detail can still be found on modern pilot’s watches today.

IWC BIG PILOT’S HERITAGE WATCH 48

Derived from Milanese chain mail in the 13th century, the Milanese mesh design now has the less bloody function of keeping watches and jewellery on the wrist. Modern use was pioneered by German strap specialists Staib and Vollmer, and luxury brands like Breitling and Zenith have mesh options in some collections. Omega’s Shark Mesh bracelet, first found on the Ploprof 600 diving watch, features a similar design with larger links. 

BREITLING SUPEROCEAN HERITAGE II 42

While durable and especially suitable for diving, metal bracelets are still a little too heavy and expensive to replace when it comes to serious tool watches. Rubber straps are the obvious answer, and the earliest example is the Tropic, now famous for its basket weave pattern and numerous perforations. Other designs have followed since, such as Seiko’s Waffle strap and Hublot’s fabric or leather- covered rubber straps. 

ORIS DIVERS SIXTY-FIVE

Audemars Piguet’s audacious Royal Oak made history by selling itself as a luxury sports watch in steel, but we shouldn’t forget that much of that credit belongs to the meticulously manufactured bracelet as well.

It shocked everyone how much shine could be coaxed from a steel bracelet, not to mention the time taken to both satin- brush and polish the link edges. 

AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK CHRONOGRAPH

Most watches use spring bars to hold the straps to the watch, so use a spring bar tool for watches with drilled lugs. It also won’t hurt to have some spare spring bars, in case you break or lose the one you’re using. For watches with screw bars instead of spring ones, a set of jeweller’s screwdrivers should do the trick.

These come in different sizes so get a complete set if you’re unsure of what size you need.

Most guides will advise you to work with the underside of the watch facing up to prevent accidental scratches to the crystal, but some find it easier to work with the watch on the side.

Either way, it’s good to cover the case with masking tape or layers of thick cling wrap before you begin. You can place your watch in a non-metallic vice for better grip.

It will take some time and patience if this is your first time (experienced strap swoppers claim to be able to do the job with a paper clip), so make sure you have a well-lit, spacious surface to work on.

Lower your chair as far as you can so you’ll be as close to your watch as possible, while also giving your elbows a rest – yes, just like an actual watchmaker.